Fuse 23 Problems!

[gatornek]

I had my aftermarket amp installed over 3 years ago. The stereo has NEVER given me an issue. In fact, its one of the reasons I really enjoy driving the car. But about a year ago, I noticed that sometimes (every once in a blue moon), my passenger side power window would just DIE. No response from the switch. This would be problematic if I were out and about and got caught with the window down; but usually, if I turned the car off, let it rest for a second, the power window would start working again on the next ignition cycle.

Again, it started happening about a year ago, and it probably happened less than a handful of times. So each time it would fix itself right after, and I wouldn't really go chasing it down.

Well it happened again yesterday, but this time the ignition cycle trick didn't work. I dove in, and noticed that my amp remote turn on/off is piggybacked off of fuse 23 (as are MOST aftermarket setups, as its pretty much the fuse that everyone advocates to use). I didn't install it myself, I had a 'pro' do it, so I was never aware of this.

I pulled the piggyback wire off the fuse and simply popped the 10a fuse back into slot 23. The power window didn't work right away, but after one ignition cycle it did.

So it got me thinking about what's happening. It's obviously NOT the fuse. It hasn't popped. There's something on the other side of the fuse, that's causing the window to spazz about sharing a 12v signal with another device. As far as I know there is only the "regulator" and the "motor" that run the power window. The motor should pretty much 'run' if it has juice. However, the regulator does have some 'brains' and may very well be cutting the juice from getting to the motor because it doesn't like it?? Just guesses.

Not sure what the remedy might be. I've thought about the fact that my battery is about 2 1/2 years old now (plus I live in hot, humid Miami) and it might be near replacement time. Weird electrical stuff happens when your battery starts to get weak.

Has anyone out there noticed any problems with the passenger side window after running an aftermarket amp off of fuse 23??

Has anyone out there used any other fuse slot besides 23, successfully?

Any other thoughts are appreciated. Thanks in advance!

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[Ninpop9]

Fuse 23 also runs the rear-view mirror dimmer if that helps, maybe that little extra voltage robs the motor at certain times?

 

[gatornek]

Fuse 23 also runs the rear-view mirror dimmer if that helps, maybe that little extra voltage robs the motor at certain times?

I mean, yeah...that's what I'm thinking. I mean, my amp is a heavy duty 5 channel Rockford Fosgate...but its not drawing electricity from there to drive the sound, its just a 'turn on/off' signal. But it would definitely appear that its probably drawing some of the needed current away from the power window regulator and the power windows just freaks out until it resets in an ignition cycle. And I guess I was pretty much living with those 'results' up and until this last time, that the ignition cycle didn't necessarily solve the problem.

I just wanted to post this, because I know that ALL the S550 Mustang peeps are using Fuse 23 to turn devices on/off (amp, cam, detector, etc). But I really cant find anyone complaining about the power window.

I guess a big factor is how often do you drive with the windows down, and this is where I drew the correlation. Right now, the weather is fabulous where I live, so I can do windows down, as compared to the summer, when I can't. And usually when I have the windows down, I drive the amp harder and go louder.

Again, as I could not find anyone that's talked about it...I just wanted to document it. Its all plugged back up to the way it was. But I worry. I'd honestly rather deal with an engine issue, than a power window issue (as in them having to replace it, because I blew it), where I'd be pretty much at the mercy of the dealer.

 

[Cathul]

I just wanted to post this, because I know that ALL the S550 Mustang peeps are using Fuse 23 to turn devices on/off (amp, cam, detector, etc). But I really cant find anyone complaining about the power window.

I don‘t. I use a DSR-1 to generate a remote turn-on, i.e. an Integration device, aka the proper way.

And guess what… no problems with my windows whatsoever…

 

[gatornek]

I don‘t. I use a DSR-1 to generate a remote turn-on, i.e. an Integration device, aka the proper way.

And guess what… no problems with my windows whatsoever…

Congratulations. But a DSP sounds like overkill for the purpose of generating a turn on/off signal that ensures your amp doesn't drain your battery.

 

[Cathul]

You can do that with a t-harness and a relay.

 

[GWraith]

The extra load and spike in start up could have damaged the window control module or switch. I'd find a replacement module or switch and try that. Then move the amp turn on to another fuse. I'm not sure why people use 23 as in my 2021 I used the one for the front camera and left the amp turn on process be controlled by a DSP sequencer. The benefits of the sequencer is that it lowers the spike load and maintains proper voltage by the DSP supplying the load power for multiple amp turn on signals from the 12v main supply power for the PRV itself. The PRV is sensing the voltage and not using it to power on amps or other equipment besides itself Wich it requires very little to do that. PRV 2.8x or 2.4x are relatively cheap and easy to use.

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