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Front and Rear End links replacement

blakedanatural

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Hello All,
Im hoping someone is online that can give a quick install tip on the endlinks. My gt premium 2015 has 125k miles on it and I have replacing all the original suspensions parts. Today it is nice here in West Chester so I better take advantage of the weather. My question is can just jack on jackstands and replace 1 at a time or does the car need on the ground for load install? I know I need a 17mm 18 mm socket and wrench. Any torque specs would be greatful as well. Thank you in advance.

Blake
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kz

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You need both front or both rear wheels up depending on which bar you're replacing links at - to unload the bar obviously.

I have all torque specs somewhere but i just made them tight with stubby milwaukee impact (so don't have to counterotate) and then add some more with a wrench.
 

Need4SpeedMotors

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Hey this is junior from Need4SpeedMotorsports, i just did the sway bar links on my car this past weekend. I suggest having both wheels up in the air and doing both sides at the same time for the front and rear. I tried to do one side at a time and was having trouble getting the links to line up with the holes. LMR.com has a sheet on their website with factory torque specs.

s550-suspension-torque-specs_1c4c91f3.png
 
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blakedanatural

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Thank you guys for the input. Before checking to see if anyone responded I did the rears and one wheel at time. Yes it was difficult to line the bolts into the stabilizer bar. I kept lowering the jack to get close to ride height and I got it. Tomorrow I will do the front and raise the front and take off both wheels. Thank you again. It was difficult to get to the torque to 85 ft lb. I used the rachet wrench and allen key to tighten then I tried the torque rachet but it appeared that it never reached the click sound. Any suggestions?
 

GTP

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IIRC there are also flats on the backside of the links, for a 17mm open end wrench. You can hold the pin from rotating with these instead of the 6mm hex key.

Yes, once you are a little more than "snug tight", you should be able to achieve 85# without having to hold the pin still.

I use a paint pen to mark the pin, nut, and bar to prove nothing is loosening.
 
 








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