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Fore fuel system and Paxton install lessons learned - added dyno

andrewtac

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Plan is to add to here as I go. The paxton was supposed to get here yesterday, so I started with the fuel system. Paxton delayed in the mail, sucks.

Fore stuff
1) Do not fill you tank up prior to installing! I probably spilt a gallon or so of gas when I removed the factory pump, flowed over the top and went everywhere. Lucky almost none of it in the car.
2). I have an FC3, think about how you wire it before putting the knurls on the wires. I plan on a hobbs switch, forgot and already knurled the signal wire, I'll need to pull that one off an fix it. Plan on using an LED in the car to show when pump two is on, I'll have to pull the knurls off pump two and add the other wires.

More to come as I install.
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silverbullet85

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Why run on one pump and not 2? Also the light is just going to show that the pump power supply wire is seeing power not that the pump is actually working, not sure of the importance of seeing that a fuel pump is getting power. Are you going to run 2 all the time and 3 on a Hobbs? I believe 2 hellcat or 455 pumps can support around 1000hp, how much are you shooting for? Simple is better. It's your car just throwing my 2 cents in
 
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andrewtac

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700-800hp is the goal at some point.

I agree two on all the time is simpler. Maybe I am fixing a problem that doesn't exist, was told on the street two pumps on all time WI result in hot fuel.

Also, the light will tell me the pump is getting power, correct. That is best I can do to ensure it is running. If I had two on all the time the light would still only tell me it is getting power, there is no difference if it is triggered by the hobbs or by the fuel pump power wire.
 

SolarFlare

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I use the LEDs. When the fuel system was installed it had a blown fuse. And some one I know also had a blown fuse and later had a wire from controller to pump fall out. So light tells me if power is going to pump. Not if pump is weak or dead.
 

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andrewtac

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90% done and 90% to go, had to go to work for a few days.

Paxton stuff

1) V3 JT is a Paxton 2200 SL, was a little surprised when I opened the box, but figured it out here and later Beefcake confirmed.
2) What I think is the adaptive cruise control sensor (I have ACC) is not shown in the installation instructions. I was able to clearance the bracket for the CAC exit pipe. Looking back I should have removed the bracket from the sensor (I kept them together) before trimming. The air saw vibrations might have damaged the sensor, we'll see.
3) Ford antifreeze is cheap, not going to reuse the old.

Over went smooth today, this is more than a 12 hour install. I probably had 8-10 hours on the fore system (this should have been quicker); got hung up on a couple things. Today I worked about 9 hours. I have to plumb the vacuum feeds, one fuel line, fuel pressure regulator, then put all the body pieces back together. Probably another 2-4 hours left.
 
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andrewtac

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More Fore
3) The T-block fitting that goes onto the DI pump is a little loose. I confirmed with Fore that is is normal.
4) Outstanding customer service, I have probably sent them 20+ questions.
 
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andrewtac

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more Fore (well, sort of)

5) fuel leaks! The T-block had a use sticker on it that said use pipe thread sealer, I thought this sure was odd as there is no pipe fittings on it. Well sure enough, below the sticker is 1/8 NPT port for a fuel pressure gauge. Fuel went everywhere on first start. Got it taken car of, then I had several more leaks under the car. I put an E85 sensor on the return line, forgot a block off fitting, fuel everywhere, forgot to tighten one side of the lines hooking to it, small leak.

Went for a short drive, looking forward to the tune so I can get on it.
 
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andrewtac

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Lund.
1) Make sure you get your OS code with the first tune for data logging. Work puts me on the road a bit so I have limited availability sometimes (last week is was mostly the weekend). Got it all buttoned up and couldn't log due to not having the code. Anyways, got it today and did a couple revisions (very quick turnaround, probably would have finished if had more time). Ran out of time and couldn't get to the 7500 wot run, off to work again.

Fore
6) led indicator light works, I put it eye level on the pillar easy to see and noticeable. I found a 2psi switch I might use instead (current one 5).

Paxton
2) continued... Yep pretty sure I busted the adaptive cruise radar sensor, I have no collision warning and no cruise control, sucks. Pretty sure the vibrations trashed it. It was one of my favorite options on the car.
 

PayForYourGas

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Lund.
1) Make sure you get your OS code with the first tune for data logging. Work puts me on the road a bit so I have limited availability sometimes (last week is was mostly the weekend). Got it all buttoned up and couldn't log due to not having the code. Anyways, got it today and did a couple revisions (very quick turnaround, probably would have finished if had more time). Ran out of time and couldn't get to the 7500 wot run, off to work again.

Fore
6) led indicator light works, I put it eye level on the pillar easy to see and noticeable. I found a 2psi switch I might use instead (current one 5).

Paxton
2) continued... Yep pretty sure I busted the adaptive cruise radar sensor, I have no collision warning and no cruise control, sucks. Pretty sure the vibrations trashed it. It was one of my favorite options on the car.
Did you ever get the ACC figured out? This is why I am hesitant on going with a Vortech/Paxton kit honestly. Seems as though the PC intercooler(s) clear just fine.
 

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andrewtac

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Did you ever get the ACC figured out? This is why I am hesitant on going with a Vortech/Paxton kit honestly. Seems as though the PC intercooler(s) clear just fine.
Yes, but unfortunately after I bought a new sensor (wasn't needed). I went to replace the sensor yesterday, and noticed the plug wasn't fully seated. Pushed it on and it has been working sense. I did have to cut a bit on the bracket to make it fit. Also, the horn location as called in the instructions wasn't the same. It was close (same hole I think) but I had to manipulate the horns a little to get them to fit. If your not scared to cut the bracket some I wouldn't shy away from the kit because of it. Going to get headers and a couple dyno pulls tomorrow; very happy with the car/kit so far. Hopefully get the BMR suspension, half shafts, and drive shafts on this weekend and be done for a while.
 

PayForYourGas

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Yes, but unfortunately after I bought a new sensor (wasn't needed). I went to replace the sensor yesterday, and noticed the plug wasn't fully seated. Pushed it on and it has been working sense. I did have to cut a bit on the bracket to make it fit. Also, the horn location as called in the instructions wasn't the same. It was close (same hole I think) but I had to manipulate the horns a little to get them to fit. If your not scared to cut the bracket some I wouldn't shy away from the kit because of it. Going to get headers and a couple dyno pulls tomorrow; very happy with the car/kit so far. Hopefully get the BMR suspension, half shafts, and drive shafts on this weekend and be done for a while.
Oh cool that’s very good to hear. Keep this thread updated if anything changes. I’m pulling the trigger very shortly here...just can’t decide on which kit! They both have their advantages/disadvantages.
 
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andrewtac

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Oh cool that’s very good to hear. Keep this thread updated if anything changes. I’m pulling the trigger very shortly here...just can’t decide on which kit! They both have their advantages/disadvantages.

Both good kits, was leaning towards PC but the Paxton fit the bill. I'll keep adding stuff as things change or get updated. Hopefully post the dyno results tomorrow and at some point get to the track.
 
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andrewtac

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Added headers today, well I had them installed, TSP. I also added a magnaflow x pipe resonator in place of the factory to tame it some. I did keep the factory mufflers, goal was make more power but stay quiet. It actually seems to be about the same volume wise maybe quieter, though it sounds different. Not as raspy. I also added a box of dynomat (amazon equivalent) in the rear seat and trunk area this evening; in cockpit it is very tolerable, almost to quiet. I know adding weight doesn't make me faster, but I quit driving my last car because it was to damn loud.

So the dyno run, this was post header install, wanted a pre, but they didn't have time. I wasn't there, wish I was, also, it was done in 6th gear and is MPH instead of RPM. 776 at 147mph; which using an online rpm calculator is about 7200 rpm; not sure if he let off the gas or what. So maybe a little more left in it, who knows. Either way, I do have a 3.48 pulley in the mail,, which will likely be my final mod for normal operations, will dyno it again. Goal was low 10 high 9 car, this should get me there. Very happy with it and the install.

dyno.jpg
 
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cbrtrx

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Nice numbers, you dynoed on drag radials? I've seen over a 30 rwhp loss at those power levels on the dyno with drag radials.
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