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TheLion

TheLion

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By the way, for anyone wanting a little more protection, Valvoline's new Snypower formula is now on the shelves at wal-mart. About 25$ for 5 quarts. It's GM Dexos 1 Gen 2 certified and also meets the ILSAC-5 as well as Ford WSS-M2C946-A specification for motor oils.

I mention that over AMSOIL because it's commonly available and meets some of the most stringent oil specifications, it's even certified for GM 4718M which is required for their Corvetts, Cadillac ATS's etc.

It's a "no cost" upgrade in the sense that you have to change your oil, mine as well switch over at the next change to oils tested specifically to limit or eliminate LPSI as far as the oil's influences are concerned, especially if your tuned.

https://sharena21.springcm.com/Public/Document/18452/f1d157d1-0f7e-e711-9c10-ac162d889bd3/46c55b4b-357e-e711-9c10-ac162d889bd3

I think Pennzoil, Quaker State and Mobil 1 are all working on getting theirs to the markets soon as well, they all have synthetics listed on the Gen 2 certified list, however most of them aren't on the shelves in actual stores yet. Valvoline seems to be one of the first, so that's why I mention them. Any synthetic mentioned is good enough if changed regularly, so use what you like, but the Gen 2 cert is a really big plus for TDI applications.
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yomamma219

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I definitely plan to upgrade the inter-cooler down the road, probably before next summer at this point though since weather is getting cooler. Unfortunately don't have the time/budget excess at the moment to warrant getting the FP Tune, FMIC, and a catch-can. Wanna hear something crazy though? I don't have the active grill shutters (AGS). I think that is due to me having the pony package, but haven't heard definitively, and haven't looked and see if there are scars from the previous owner tearing them out (got it as a CPO). Haven't decided what size to go with but will probably be whichever is priced well and is reviewed well when I am ready to purchase.

Your suggestion of FMIC first definitely carries weight with me, though a main reason for going with the tune first is that I wan't to beat on the car a little with the tune, so that if there are any underlying issues, that the tune exposes, they will hopefully present themselves while still in my 36k warranty. It's not that I don't care about power under 5k rpms its just that I don't often use it. I just am drooling for the tune so all the damn tuned Focus STs I come across (hopefully) wont be able to keep up in 3rd like they currently seem able to.

Side note: In my area/experience FoST guys are some of the best car guys around. Always a little quirky, seem to be fun loving, not arrogant, plus seem to have some degree of admiration for the Stang Ecoboost- Similar to my admiration for the Stang GT :thumbsup:



I'm not seeing anything wonky with my statement about gearing. Gearing affects the actual power delivered to the wheels. Power is a factor based on torque and RPM. The trade off is maximum speed.

Lower gearing will apply greater torque at a given RPM, meaning the actual real power going to the wheels is greater at the same RPM even though the torque at the crank is the same, your just sacrificing top speed for increased torque via the gearing.

But I digress...yes, there's absolutely nothing wrong with the FP tune, especially if your wanting to maintain warranty coverage, it is literally the ONLY option in the world that I"m aware of for ANY manufacturer that allows you to maintain your warranty. I recommended Livernois as they also work with Ford and Ford Performance, all 3 companies are inter twined, but Livernois has a little different focus and no it's not covered under warranty, Ford would never warranty an engine software that isn't emissions legal even if it was safe because they sell street cars. Ford Performance sells plenty of parts and upgrades that are NOT warrantied and NOT emissions legal also, but most of their mustang ecoboost upgrades are centered around street use. However, from a practical standpoint, if you don't have e-check, it primarily comes down to durability / safety / cost / performance.

I'm not aware of any "factory upgrades" from GM, Honda, VW, Dodge, Subaru etc. that are warranty certified, seems to be a Ford only thing...the top end of the FP tune is definitely better than stock, your pushing the power band out another 800 RPM, so instead of the peak of the power band being at 5,000 RPM, it's now way out at 5800 RPM. Their tune combined with a inter cooler is making 50 HP more, but only 25 HP more with the stock inter cooler. If the car came with a properly sized inter cooler from the factory, and upgraded inter cooler would show no power gains, the only reason we see power gains with a FMIC is because it is overly restrictive and is under sized. Why? Because Ford wants to sell GT's and Focus RS's. The Ecoboost Mustang needs to be faster than the Focus St (next tier down), but not as fast as the RS or the GT V8. They did just that, stock it runs about 13.6~13.9 ish on average, weather permitting. RS runs about a 13.3~13.4 and the GT runs about a 12.9~13.1 quarter mile.

From a driving standpoint, you can really only start to feel the power band fade starting at 6,000 RPM, after 6k, it becomes increasingly noticeable the more you rev it out. So it's a big improvement over the factory setup, but it's an 80% solution, not a 100% solution like Livernois. 80% solution is better than the half-a** 50% solution from Ford though...

I would highly recomend an inter cooler to ago along with it. Garrett/Honeywell is the company who designed the turbo for Ford, they make a high efficiency core that's a drop in, so you don't have to remove the AGS, fits right in the stock location. That would be a really good pair for street applications that's warranty friendly.

Honestly, if you don't care about power above 5k, I'd go with an inter cooler over the tune. You will see far more consistency from the car with just an inter cooler upgrade than with the tune and stock inter cooler. Pair them together and you'll be in heaven for a daily driver :D. The car should easily run mid to high 13's with a inter cooler alone.
 

Chef jpd

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Side note: In my area/experience FoST guys are some of the best car guys around. Always a little quirky, seem to be fun loving, not arrogant, plus seem to have some degree of admiration for the Stang Ecoboost- Similar to my admiration for the Stang GT :thumbsup:
Well said. I traded my very tuned 13 Focus ST for a 16 EB Mustang.
I was fairly active on the Focus ST.org site
It was a great community and fun since it was the first venture into tuning EB motors.
A lot of the Mustang tuning knowledge comes from the St community.
 

solodogg

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By the way, for anyone wanting a little more protection, Valvoline's new Snypower formula is now on the shelves at wal-mart. About 25$ for 5 quarts. It's GM Dexos 1 Gen 2 certified and also meet
Castrol GTX Magnatec 5w30 also fits the bill in this case, and comes HIGHLY recommended on BITOG for all EB motors. Just a couple of months ago, they changed the formula to make the 5w30 a full synthetic instead of a semi synthetic, and it's available at Wally World for less than $20 for a 5 quart jug.

Been running it for a few thousand miles in both the Mustang and the wife's 2.0EB Edge with no complaints thus far.
 

Marvinmadman

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I'm going to try the Valvoline next. The Magnatec fills my catch can at about 3x the rate of the Amsoil.
 

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Juben

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Castrol has reformulated the entire Magnatec lineup from what I understand and the NOACK value of the 10w30 is a 5.7 according to Castrol's documentation that they released back in August or so. Redline oil is usually one of the lowest at 6.0 and I think Amsoil is somewhere just a tad higher than that.

It might be worth it to give the 10w30 a shot since you're in the south and won't see -20° F temps over the winter months. 10w30 oils always seem to have a better NOACK value than lighter weight oils.

Edit: Just went back to find a link to the info and it's now saying a 6.95 NOACK value, which is still fantastic, but a little higher than it was showing a few weeks back.
 

TxMStang

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Does anyone know of a dealer in Houston that will do the FP tune? I have been lurking around and reading as much as I can and now I am ready to do it, as well as the intercooler upgrade.
 

TEXAS HEAT

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Does anyone know of a dealer in Houston that will do the FP tune? I have been lurking around and reading as much as I can and now I am ready to do it, as well as the intercooler upgrade.
Tommy Vaughn Ford
 

kart3l

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Has anyone reverted the GT350 intake back to the stock box?

I have been tuned for well over 3K miles now, and I have sputtering after letting the gas go before shifting. The sputtering appears to come from the intake (left side), like the engine is choking for half a second and suddenly drops RPM. I can alleviate this by giving a little gas before shifting.

It does this on certain RPMS while shifting, mainly on 1st and 2nd gears. Do you guys know what could be wrong?
 

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lizardrko

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Has anyone reverted the GT350 intake back to the stock box?

I have been tuned for well over 3K miles now, and I have sputtering after letting the gas go before shifting. The sputtering appears to come from the intake (left side), like the engine is choking for half a second and suddenly drops RPM. I can alleviate this by giving a little gas before shifting.

It does this on certain RPMS while shifting, mainly on 1st and 2nd gears. Do you guys know what could be wrong?
Double check all the hose clamps on the intake make sure they are tight. Not the most intricate answer in the world lol but u never know, one can be loose.
 

GJarrett

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A couple of the GT350 guys noted in their subforum that the air filter has a tendency to loosen a little and let vacuum slide by if the band is not kept clamped tightly. Symptoms are similar to what you describe. First thing I'd do is check how tightly your air filter is clamped on and if it has shifted any on its mount in the airbox.

As far as reverted back to stock airbox, I did it for a few hundred miles when I turned my Mustang back into dealer service to fix an A/C issue. I didn't notice any seat of the pants difference at all, but didn't dyno it either. So I dunno if it makes a difference or not.
 

Marvinmadman

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Remember our cars are MAP. Intake leaks aren't going to present these issues like a MAF 5.0 would.
 

Regs

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Would you need to pro-tune an auto if you get the performance package gear set rack and pinion? I got the base gears and the 1st gear seems to take "forever" to reach 5k+ RPM even with the FP tune.
 

GJarrett

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Remember our cars are MAP. Intake leaks aren't going to present these issues like a MAF 5.0 would.
I'm still learning, thanks. So I wonder what would cause his problem?
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