TheLion
Well-Known Member
Different engine calibrations will affect cam position differently than stock, Power Pack 2 obviously alters the cam phase positions a little along with everything else (timing, fueling, cut off points, built in safety limits, fan profiles etc.).I checked everything, seems to be fine. Replaced and re-clamped all of the lines that connect to the T joint supplied by Ford Performance, but still hear that odd rattle sound.
Could it just be the sound that the intake makes? Not sure if anyone that has PP2 can comment on the sound of the intake during load..
This can affect the way the engine sounds from a noise standpoint. And so does oil. Oil in a modern engine serves three very important purposes: 1. Lubrication 2. Cooling 3. Hydraulic fluid.
There are 32 hydraulic lash adjusters, 4 hydraulic cams (uses hydraulic fluid to hold cam position, but uses valve spring energy to actually change position) and two hydraulic timing chain guides / tensioners in the Coyote 5.0. The Ford Performance Power Pack definitely is running a lot more timing down low in the RPM range. That's going to mean HIGHER TORQUE. I wonder if your hearing timing chain rattle due to the timing chain guides / tensioners being a tad "loose" or low on pressure.
This could explain why you didn't hear it stock even though it now occurs with the Power Pack 2. It may very well be oil related if your running after market brad x of oil. I don't believe it's harmful at all, but I've seen many timing chain driven engines have that issue with certain oils, they will tend to get clanky and some times even have strange rattles at certain RPM ranges. A modified engine may be even more sensitive to the oil which serves a very important function as hydraulic fluid.
I've found mine to be sensitive to oil composition even among 5W-20's. It's a first step in diagnosing the noise, which may have always been there even stock, but you didn't notice it because of how the factory tuning works. The Power Pack 2 may bring out a noise that was already there that you just couldn't hear over everything else because it wasn't exacerbated enough, I am highly doubtful the Power Pack calibration is the cause of the noise itself considering how many of us have had no issues with it what so ever and many even report their engine running "smoother" than stock.
2 years of development and testing is quite a bit and they even refined it further by addressing a few drive ability issues (some of which were present even in the stock calibration like the cold engine rev hang that mine did stock) that did occur (which I recall were all in manual cars).
Anyway, changing the oil to the factory oil and factory filter is a good first step in diagnosing mysterious issues you believe are engine related. That rules out hydraulic pressure issues that may be harmless but induce obnoxious noises like ticking or rattle even at certain RPM ranges. 1500 RPM is where the Power Pack is making 40 ft-lbs more torque than stock, that's going to create more low RPM tension on the timing chain and could very well explain that "rattle" which is how timing chains typically sound.
Knock or "Pinging" sounds like marbles in a metal can. Go find a metal coffee can, throw a marble in it and shake it. It's a very distinct and sharp "knock" sound, almost like a rock hitting your windshield. Some minor and low intensity knock is actually ok. Modern engines run at the very edge or even slightly into mild knock which is NOT harmful. Heavy knock (aka the rocks hitting your windshield on the highway) is damaging however if aloud to continue and should be addressed immediately. What your describing does not sound like knock at all.
After the oil change, next try setting the Octane Adjust setting back to Off as well and see if that changes the "rattle" sound at all or if it makes no difference. With the Octane Adjust set to "Y" or "ON" your leaving a little power on the table because it forces the ECU to be more conservative with timing advance and turns of the learning function all together so the calibration can't advance timing past a certain point when there's no detectable knock so it limits your ability to take advantage of higher octane like 93 or higher. It really seems be there for cars that may only have access to poorer quality 91 and are possibly also at higher altitudes to boot meaning your engine will be "octane sensitive" because the conditions are very poor for pushing more advanced timing, which would be true of ANY car in those conditions.
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