FInding the next tenth - AutoX

[lizardman]

I'm looking for ideas to get just a bit quicker. I have been running local events in CAM-C and have a whole 3 years experience. I've looked through some of your builds for inspiration and have come up with a few ideas. I can' do it all at once so I have to prioritize.
A. Power: GT350 manifold, E85
B. Weight: Rear seat delete, Xpipe, race seat, etc.
C. Front Geometry: Steeda Lateral and Tension Links, Bump Steer
D. Rear stability: Toe Link Bearing, Lower Control Arm Spherical Bearing, Differential Bushing
E. Brakes: Stainless lines
F. Seat time: Evolution Performance Driving School

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[SteedaTech]

I'm looking for ideas to get just a bit quicker. I have been running local events in CAM-C and have a whole 3 years experience. I've looked through some of your builds for inspiration and have come up with a few ideas. I can' do it all at once so I have to prioritize.
A. Power: GT350 manifold, E85
B. Weight: Rear seat delete, Xpipe, race seat, etc.
C. Front Geometry: Steeda Lateral and Tension Links, Bump Steer
D. Rear stability: Toe Link Bearing, Lower Control Arm Spherical Bearing, Differential Bushing
E. Brakes: Stainless lines
F. Seat time: Evolution Performance Driving School

i would do the following

1. Front Geometry: Steeda Lateral and Tension Links, Bump Steer
2. Steeda rear urethane vertical links

Steeda Tech

 

[Daytona Coupe]

I can say that option D on your list helped mine quite a bit.

 

[lacartus]

I'm looking for ideas to get just a bit quicker. I have been running local events in CAM-C and have a whole 3 years experience. I've looked through some of your builds for inspiration and have come up with a few ideas. I can' do it all at once so I have to prioritize.
A. Power: GT350 manifold, E85
B. Weight: Rear seat delete, Xpipe, race seat, etc.
C. Front Geometry: Steeda Lateral and Tension Links, Bump Steer
D. Rear stability: Toe Link Bearing, Lower Control Arm Spherical Bearing, Differential Bushing
E. Brakes: Stainless lines
F. Seat time: Evolution Performance Driving School

I like option F. Get a local fast driver to take run in your car and compare time, lines, etc. If you're slower, the best investment is a quality school, like Evolution (McKamey), especially if you find you have hit a plateau and are not getting faster.

 

[lizardman]

I like option F. Get a local fast driver to take run in your car and compare time, lines, etc. If you're slower, the best investment is a quality school, like Evolution (McKamey), especially if you find you have hit a plateau and are not getting faster.

You are absolutely right. For the last 3 events last year I invited a better drive to Co-drive with me and picked up a lot of good experience doing that. I just signed up for the Evo school at the CAM Challange. Whatever cash I have left is going to be spent on replacing bearings.

Thank you
AL

 

[lizardman]

I can say that option D on your list helped mine quite a bit.

I don't have to drive the car every day to work so a little NVH is not a big deal. I think getting rid of the squishy stuff is a good idea.
Thank you
AL

 

[Wolverine]

A. Power would help of course, but what about your tune (do you currently have one?) What is your current redline RPM? Do you find yourself hitting the limiter much? What about rear-end gear ratio?

B. Weight loss is like adding power. Take out the things you listed, and anything else not needed or desired (this list is shorter if the car is daily driven, and longer if it’s a track toy).

C. Front geometry especially if you’re lowered, absolutely. Roll center correction on the lateral arm, bump steer kit, and even bearings in the front arms. The objective is to maintain the ideal tire contact patch CONSTANTLY, and these parts help the suspension move and do its thing but control the angles so the maximum grip is held throughout the range of motion.

D. Rear stability seems to be the biggest/most notable improvement as far as bushing-to-bearing upgrades are concerned. Get some rear lower control arm (RLCA) bearings installed ASAP. Next to the BMR CB005 IRS cradle lockout, it does the most to control things from flopping around like a wet noodle (affecting your alignment and therefore contact patch).

E. Brakes stainless lines are great but probably won’t make you any faster. Better fluid can increase braking performance, which can net lower times though. Autocross isn’t as hard on brakes as track driving, since the “lap(s)” are usually under 2 minutes as opposed to 20-30 minutes on a track with typical speeds over 120mph.

F. Seat time is the best improvement you can make, generally speaking. I sometimes put it at a tie with tires, which is my next point..

G. TIRES. I’m surprised you didn’t mention this in your post, but what tires are you running? And on what size wheels? CAM-C allows street tires with 200TW or greater. You should stuff as much wheel and tire under the car as possible. Sometimes this can cover up bad driving habits by brute force....the grip they provide yields a fast run even if mistakes are made. But as you’ve got 3+ years doing Autocross and are focusing on yourself as a driver (taking processional driving school too) I think you’d be just fine running the top tire available for this class. RE71Rs in 305/30R19 on 11” wheels squared, or larger. BFG Rivals are good too, if you are able to run 18’s.

 

[lizardman]

A. Power would help of course, but what about your tune (do you currently have one?) What is your current redline RPM? Do you find yourself hitting the limiter much? What about rear-end gear ratio?

B. Weight loss is like adding power. Take out the things you listed, and anything else not needed or desired (this list is shorter if the car is daily driven, and longer if it’s a track toy).

C. Front geometry especially if you’re lowered, absolutely. Roll center correction on the lateral arm, bump steer kit, and even bearings in the front arms. The objective is to maintain the ideal tire contact patch CONSTANTLY, and these parts help the suspension move and do its thing but control the angles so the maximum grip is held throughout the range of motion.

D. Rear stability seems to be the biggest/most notable improvement as far as bushing-to-bearing upgrades are concerned. Get some rear lower control arm (RLCA) bearings installed ASAP. Next to the BMR CB005 IRS cradle lockout, it does the most to control things from flopping around like a wet noodle (affecting your alignment and therefore contact patch).

E. Brakes stainless lines are great but probably won’t make you any faster. Better fluid can increase braking performance, which can net lower times though. Autocross isn’t as hard on brakes as track driving, since the “lap(s)” are usually under 2 minutes as opposed to 20-30 minutes on a track with typical speeds over 120mph.

F. Seat time is the best improvement you can make, generally speaking. I sometimes put it at a tie with tires, which is my next point..

G. TIRES. I’m surprised you didn’t mention this in your post, but what tires are you running? And on what size wheels? CAM-C allows street tires with 200TW or greater. You should stuff as much wheel and tire under the car as possible. Sometimes this can cover up bad driving habits by brute force....the grip they provide yields a fast run even if mistakes are made. But as you’ve got 3+ years doing Autocross and are focusing on yourself as a driver (taking processional driving school too) I think you’d be just fine running the top tire available for this class. RE71Rs in 305/30R19 on 11” wheels squared, or larger. BFG Rivals are good too, if you are able to run 18’s.

You are correct Tires are the most important upgrade you can do to your car. I'm running 305 RE71Rs on all four corners and it has made a tremendous difference vs the staggered setup. Now I want to make the most efficient use of them, put some bearings in to get rid of the wet noodle and improve the nut behind the steering wheel. And why not add a little power, no one likes a slow mustang
Thanks
AL

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