extra cooling: most bang for the buck? What temp gauge to look at?

[TX-2019-Black_GT]

There's some excellent cooling threads here, but I'm unsure about what's the most "bang for the buck" to start with, and what datametric gives the best indication on when I'm nearing an overheat situation?

On my first track day, I did not have any issues. On my second track day, last week and with slightly cooler ambient temperatures, after the first 15 minutes or so, the car would not go past around 6,100 RPM. I did not see any previous warnings, just suddenly would not go past 6,100. If I tried to push it past 6,100, I got a message about limiting power due to engine heat (or something a long the lines). At that point I was for the first time able to not be completely outrun by another guy in what looked like a daily driver (a BMW M4 competition I think), though I had a hard time at it, and even if the overheat limiter had not kicked in, I would have backed out soon anyway.

I'm not sure what gauges to look at for an indication of whether I'm approaching an overheat situation? I tried looking at the oil temp gauge once the car already had overheating problems, but not sure if that's the best indicator. My car is the (EU) base model, and I have an OBD-reader too now. What should I be looking at?

What are other non-expensive things, that are also not too difficult to install, that give a reasonable return of investment/work for an amateur?

I had a similar experience on my first track day, RPMs limited after several laps. I've spent hours reading the cooling threads, and one of the most useful posts I've seen is linked below. I too wanted to know what was the most likely issue, oil temp, CHT, Trans (I have the 10-speed auto), diff? The chart in the post shows that above 280F oil temp, the RPMs are limited in steps, and just a few degrees makes a big difference. This is a 2015 chart, and my 2019 is probably a little different, but I do know my oil temp hit the edge of 'yellow' on the gauge, and that is 280F. I also know my trans temps never got close to the 'yellow' zone. I don't have a diff sensor. Also keep in mind that it can be a combination of EOT, ECT, TOT, but these temps mostly trend together.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/the-big-fat-track-car-cooling-thread.53695/#post-1277600

Bottom line for me is to install an oil cooler first, and delete the factory oil cooler. Ordering the parts this weekend.

I am also about to build and install some major temperature logging, so I will have a lot more data to base future upgrades on, and before and after comparisons. If anyone has done this already, please point me to that thread! I'll be sure to share my results on these forums too.

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[fatbillybob]

The fluid is extremely aerated already, so no need to worry about that. Besides, you definitely cannot reliably pump out of the fill port.

No one pumps out the fill port. The fill port is where cold fluid comes in. The drain is where you pump out hot fluid. This jives with your picture of the diff cover/fluid in action

 

[TX-2019-Black_GT]

..... I repurposed the rear defroster wiring at the rear glass and just push the defrost button on the IP to turn the diff cooler on.

THAT is an awesome idea! Could very easily do the same for an everyday driver & occasional track car, just add one switch in the trunk to choose defroster or diff cooler. Great idea.

 

[HeelToeHero]

THAT is an awesome idea! Could very easily do the same for an everyday driver & occasional track car, just add one switch in the trunk to choose defroster or diff cooler. Great idea.

Doesn't the defroster time out and click off after a period of time though?

 

[TX-2019-Black_GT]

Doesn't the defroster time out and click off after a period of time though?

Oh, yeah, good point.

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