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MegaMagneticStang
Well-Known Member
have you made any changes to the engine recently?
sounds like you def have a leak... possible your diverter / blow off valve has gone bad also...?
sounds like you def have a leak... possible your diverter / blow off valve has gone bad also...?
Jay777
Member
- Thread starter
- #3
No engine mods or anything , vaccum side gauge works perfectly fine , it just doesn't go past zero towards boost side , no matter how hard i press . Could it be cuz of subfreezing temps? , i live in ottawa , Canada . How do i look for a leak or for bov valve , diverter , or waste gate gone bad ?
kevinvan6000
Well-Known Member
Is this when the engine is fully warm and driving? Not 100% sure with the Ecoboosts, but with previous turbo cars I've owned, sometimes the computer will limit boost at idle or if the engine temp isn't up to a specific range.
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sjmurphy34
Well-Known Member
Is there any check engine lights or wrenches? If you're truly not getting any boost you should be setting some codes. Do you feel a lack of power? Is it possible the gauge just isn't displaying correctly?
Cobra Jet
Well-Known Member
If you truly were not getting any boost at all you would definitely know because the car would feel very different, as in lacking significant power.
Did you check to make sure ALL of the turbo, air intake tube and IC hose clamps are tight at both ends of where they connect?
Have you checked the watergate actuator rod to make sure it hasnât become loose or isnât damaged?
The exterior weather temps wonât affect the boost side of the gauge, not in the sense of stopping the gauge from responding.
That center cluster PP gauge pod doesnât have any vac lines to it - itâs just a circuit board with a plug. Itâs possible the board could be damaged, the plug could be loose or the other end of that harness (engine bay side) has somehow become damaged.
Did you check to make sure ALL of the turbo, air intake tube and IC hose clamps are tight at both ends of where they connect?
Have you checked the watergate actuator rod to make sure it hasnât become loose or isnât damaged?
The exterior weather temps wonât affect the boost side of the gauge, not in the sense of stopping the gauge from responding.
That center cluster PP gauge pod doesnât have any vac lines to it - itâs just a circuit board with a plug. Itâs possible the board could be damaged, the plug could be loose or the other end of that harness (engine bay side) has somehow become damaged.
Jay777
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- Thread starter
- #8
Its so hard for me to check any of those since im a super noob in car knowledge. But i had a checklight before for stuck wastegate actuator arm which was fixed by Ford and this one time , my car also went to limp mode which got normal afteri restarted the car . My car definitely feels sluggish to what it was before , the lag before it picks up the throttle is lot more than what it was . Im going home today and taking out my wastegate actuator and pressure test it to see if it works .
Cobra Jet
Well-Known Member
Ah, no worries!
pop the hood:
1) air box and itâs tube located to the right (driver side). Check all the metal clamp screws at all ends of the hose; if the screws are even slightly loose, just tighten them up a bit so the clamp is snug and tight on the hose.
2) follow that large solid plastic air tube to the turbo assembly - again at that assembly, tighten all the hose clamps you see.
3) IC (intercooler) hoses; these would be the very large diameter hoses found on the left (passenger side) under/near the coolant overflow bottle and on the right (driver side) under the air box assembly. Again tighten all clamps you see. On the driver side you may have to remove the air box or get to it from under the front end if you canât access the clamp going to the IC because itâs in a tight spot. The clamps at the L and R IC outlets are the ones that are known to be a little loose from the factory. Those are in the tight spots but can be accessed.
4) throttle body - on right (driver) side almost directly behind the air box and down a little towards side of engine - there is a hose clamp there you should check and tighten.
While in there, just check any vac lines you see going to the top of the engine and air tube. Just make sure theyâre secure, not loose or cracked.
That should get you going... and before you know it, youâre gonna be a pro like the rest of us!
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Jay777
Member
- Thread starter
- #11
Ok guys , so i popped the hood , followed all the directions and all the connections seemed tight fit , some were loose and i tightened them and still at same situation. Now i have my wastegate actuator and the spring seems to be fine , im gonna hook up to compressor to see what pressure it needs to flip open . Anything else i should be looking at ?
feeny1701
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I'm certainly not an EcoBoost expert here, but I've had turbo tuned cars in the past so I have a bit of experience. I assume that the gauge is a representation of the MAP sensor, so if the car feels like it has normal power, you could have a problem with the sensor or the gauge cluster. If the car feels down on power, the gauge could be accurate and there is a leak on the intake side, or the turbo is not working properly. Cold air temps tend to cause high boost problems, not low boost. The car should build boost very rapidly with cold air. The fellas on the subaru forums always encourage a "smoke test" on the intake side past the turbo. Basically you rig up a contraption to the pressure pipe coming off the compressor side of the turbo, and force air and smoke through the pipe. Then follow the smoke to the leak and fix it.
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