DD DRL Boards

[papinist]

Before replacing stock parking lights with leds I tested the system and all worked good. Also, Gnome says that only dimmed tribar flickers so it should not be a power issue.

Just FIY, this is the power consumption of stock parking light

and this is a led parking bulb

and even adding the switchback white side, they both are lower than the original stock parking bulb consumption:
(camera missed a '1'.. it's 12v)

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[Gnome]

Before replacing stock parking lights with leds I tested the system and all worked good. Also, Gnome says that only dimmed tribar flickers so it should not be a power issue.

Just FIY, this is the power consumption of stock parking light



and this is a led parking bulb



and even adding the switchback white side, they both are lower than the original stock parking bulb consumption:
(camera missed a '1'.. it's 12v)

Do your led drivers have a separate 12V supply? The kit I have has 4 wires. Earth, drl, parking and indicator. in dim mode all power is supplied to the drivers by the parking light circuit. Maybe with led parking light it will be OK. Also with engine off everything is OK with the original OEM parking globes installed, did you try with the engine running? I am thinking about switching to LED parking light, or leaving it out have not decided yet, but still curious to find out why, they do this may be able to do some mores testing on the weekend.

 

[Gnome]

I just quote this part, Papinist and some others, have connected the Switchbacks to the parking light bulb. When both are on, nothing flashes/flickers, so seems the circuit can provide enough power for that. But they changed the OEM bulb for a LED one, do you have a OEM or LED parking bulb on your car @Gnome ?

Maybe I'm wrong and Papinist can correct this point

I have standard globe in parking light. I think that the new DD kit is different from previous ones and behaves differently to other kits.

 

[papinist]

Sure mine is different, I have a separate 12v power for the driver\tribar because my mod draw more power than DD one and need it.
Don't know why DD went this route: it's not a plug'n'play kit so one more wire is not difficult to connect.
[MENTION=19128]Gnome[/MENTION] can you do a test? With car off, use the hazard. Are the sequential working?

 

[Gnome]

Sure mine is different, I have a separate 12v power for the driver\tribar because my mod draw more power than DD one and need it.
Don't know why DD went this route: it's not a plug'n'play kit so one more wire is not difficult to connect.
@Gnome can you do a test? With car off, use the hazard. Are the sequential working?

Yes with the car off the sequentials work on hazard and also work when you press the button on the car to unlock it.

 

[papinist]

Thanks, my mod had two different wiring method:
- without the +12v wire, all working except sequential in hazard mode with car off
- with the +12v to a permanent 12v, all working including seq in hazard mode with car off

 

[ryosaeba]

Couple of questions guys, I know sequential signals on the back is illegal in WA. Is the front shark gills DRL legal? Also anyone know someone who can do the installs in Perth?

 

[CasperGT]

As some of you may know I imported two US light assemblies to muck around with while waiting for our car to arrive. I have successfully split both by using two different methods.

First was the oven method. 4 hours in total and 8 times in the oven. Mainly took so long because I did not know what was beyond the seams so didnt know where to start from really. I at first thought I had buggered the rear housing channel that the lens sits in but I learned how to restore to original shape with heat and clamps.

2nd method I developed from what I learned with the first assembly split and is a ripper method with very little to fix at the end. It took me 45 minutes to split and NO oven...! :clap2: I have mastered the art of using a heat gun to do it.

It seems you all have found a way to cut holes but from mine which are the US housings, no way that can work due to the factory DRL boards. But although I could not apply your method I am so happy to of worked out how to crack these buggers open even if its a longer route than yours

 

[phil545]

As some of you may know I imported two US light assemblies to muck around with while waiting for our car to arrive. I have successfully split both by using two different methods.

First was the oven method. 4 hours in total and 8 times in the oven. Mainly took so long because I did not know what was beyond the seams so didnt know where to start from really. I at first thought I had buggered the rear housing channel that the lens sits in but I learned how to restore to original shape with heat and clamps.

2nd method I developed from what I learned with the first assembly split and is a ripper method with very little to fix at the end. It took me 45 minutes to split and NO oven...! :clap2: I have mastered the art of using a heat gun to do it.

It seems you all have found a way to cut holes but from mine which are the US housings, no way that can work due to the factory DRL boards. But although I could not apply your method I am so happy to of worked out how to crack these buggers open even if its a longer route than yours

Good stuff mate, that's so awesome!!!

 

[CasperGT]

Good stuff mate, that's so awesome!!!

Cheers Phil :cheers: If it would be of interest I was thinking over the weekend putting an instruction set together with photos of doing the split?

Maybe by fluke, but I truly stumbled across the absolute fool proof method with the heat gun but there are some fundamental steps and processes that make it the perfect method. I would be game enough to do my actual car lights now.

 

[papinist]

A guide would be great!

 

[John577]

A guide would be great!

+1 :cheers:

 

[car]

As some of you may know I imported two US light assemblies to muck around with while waiting for our car to arrive. I have successfully split both by using two different methods.

First was the oven method. 4 hours in total and 8 times in the oven. Mainly took so long because I did not know what was beyond the seams so didnt know where to start from really. I at first thought I had buggered the rear housing channel that the lens sits in but I learned how to restore to original shape with heat and clamps.

2nd method I developed from what I learned with the first assembly split and is a ripper method with very little to fix at the end. It took me 45 minutes to split and NO oven...! :clap2: I have mastered the art of using a heat gun to do it.

It seems you all have found a way to cut holes but from mine which are the US housings, no way that can work due to the factory DRL boards. But although I could not apply your method I am so happy to of worked out how to crack these buggers open even if its a longer route than yours

pity u r not in Perth.....I would have some work for you. Im not game to take it on yet.

 

[phil545]

Cheers Phil :cheers: If it would be of interest I was thinking over the weekend putting an instruction set together with photos of doing the split?

Maybe by fluke, but I truly stumbled across the absolute fool proof method with the heat gun but there are some fundamental steps and processes that make it the perfect method. I would be game enough to do my actual car lights now.

Yep 100% guide would be awesome!! thanks mate

 

[Namda]

+3 for a guide

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