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Paulo1984

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Morning all, after what happened to me and on the advice of Big G after his rear end shunt. I've decided to follow suit and install the Thinkware F750 system.

Seeing as my car is in the repair center i called the main dealer to see if they would fit the system for me. They will but they wont fit it to the fusebox as describe by the camera manufacturer, they'd only wire it to the plug in module through the 12v socket.

They mentioned plugging into a spare way on the fuse box could cause an electrical fault and thus void my warranty.

Has anyone had this system fitted by their main dealer and if so how did they do it?
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Big_G

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I spoke to my dealers main tech guy the other day, he said it has to goto engine bay fuse box. The immobiliser shuts down all internal circuits on our cars (American cars don't have that issue).
I have the schematics from him
 
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Paulo1984

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I spoke to my dealers main tech guy the other day, he said it has to goto engine bay fuse box. The immobiliser shuts down all internal circuits on our cars (American cars don't have that issue).
I have the schematics from him
can you sort me out the drawings. did they agree to fit it for you without voiding your warranty?

JG ipswich are a little uncertain. I've bought the little fuse inserts so they dont have to start splicing cables. it all should just plug in the spare ways on the box.
 

S7N

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Once you get it hooked up let us know how well it works. I just bought a Rexing V1 Dash Cam yesterday and hooked it up to my mustang thru the 12v plug and hid the wires. I'd be interested in something like you have eventually.
 

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Big_G

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can you sort me out the drawings. did they agree to fit it for you without voiding your warranty?

JG ipswich are a little uncertain. I've bought the little fuse inserts so they dont have to start splicing cables. it all should just plug in the spare ways on the box.
I didn't ask them to fit it to be honest, i've got the inline fuse taps as well. They need modifying a little bit to get them to fit, you also need a fuse to sit in the top (I received 2 x 10amp ones with mine but i've lost them somewhere) and those Micro MM2 fuses are a nightmare to get hold of. I haven't found a single place in the UK that sells them.

Also need to find a way through to the engine bay from the cabin, i think there's a plug in the firewall ... hopefully not the same one that broke on mine and let water in.

I'll grab the schematics in a bit
 

Actual

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@Big_G very useful and I will look closer later and if a better electronic scan copy can be made then even better.

@Paulo1984
I am working very hard to get my Thinkware F750 install with front and rear camera just right. I have routed the power and rear camera cables almost just right and just about invisible. I have used the auxiliary power point inside the console and all the wires are very well hidden but this power source switches off after about 1 hour which means that parking mode does not work as it is supposed to.

There are not much power options inside the passenger cabin and for the 2015 Mustang UK RHD the passenger fuse box is hidden behind the accelerator pedal and very difficult to access.

From the engine bay fuse box I have located the +12v power source on the fuse box and a ignition switched power source (ACC) using fuse 44 Vehicle Power 4 which is also the fuse that the dealer used with a piggyback add a fuse for my "official" Ford front parking sensor installation.

So far I can't work out how to route the wires into the passenger cabin. I can't even see if the front parking sensors route a wire into the passenger cabin even though the control module is next to the passenger cabin fuse box with a piggyback add a fuse using Fuse 36 Auxiliary body module.

I have removed a lot of dashboard trim parts previously but at the time I wasn't looking for a route through the firewall so now that the weather is warmer I will have another look. Some of the info on older Mustang models indicates that there are grommets which route wires through the firewall which can be revealed if the wheel arch plastic trim is removed so I may investigate this.

As far as Thinkware F750 operation is concerned I am very pleased. I have stopped all annoying announcements by disabling all warning features and setting the volume to zero. It still announces connecting to a smartphone to access recordings.

I read elsewhere and observed myself that the Thinkware F750 GPS won't work if the rear video cable is routed close to the power cable and this applies to even just a few inches near the unit itself. I used a right angle micro USB connector to make the rear video cable connection neater.
 

Monty

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Good work on the updates all. Great stuff. Just seems like the final step is just knowing how/where to route from the cabin through to the engine fuse box. I must admit, this sounds like a bit of a step-up from any DIY electrical jobs I've done before, so I think I'll wait for someone who's a bit more handy to show the way forward.
 
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Paulo1984

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@Big_G very useful and I will look closer later and if a better electronic scan copy can be made then even better.

@Paulo1984
I am working very hard to get my Thinkware F750 install with front and rear camera just right. I have routed the power and rear camera cables almost just right and just about invisible. I have used the auxiliary power point inside the console and all the wires are very well hidden but this power source switches off after about 1 hour which means that parking mode does not work as it is supposed to.

There are not much power options inside the passenger cabin and for the 2015 Mustang UK RHD the passenger fuse box is hidden behind the accelerator pedal and very difficult to access.

From the engine bay fuse box I have located the +12v power source on the fuse box and a ignition switched power source (ACC) using fuse 44 Vehicle Power 4 which is also the fuse that the dealer used with a piggyback add a fuse for my "official" Ford front parking sensor installation.

So far I can't work out how to route the wires into the passenger cabin. I can't even see if the front parking sensors route a wire into the passenger cabin even though the control module is next to the passenger cabin fuse box with a piggyback add a fuse using Fuse 36 Auxiliary body module.

I have removed a lot of dashboard trim parts previously but at the time I wasn't looking for a route through the firewall so now that the weather is warmer I will have another look. Some of the info on older Mustang models indicates that there are grommets which route wires through the firewall which can be revealed if the wheel arch plastic trim is removed so I may investigate this.

As far as Thinkware F750 operation is concerned I am very pleased. I have stopped all annoying announcements by disabling all warning features and setting the volume to zero. It still announces connecting to a smartphone to access recordings.

I read elsewhere and observed myself that the Thinkware F750 GPS won't work if the rear video cable is routed close to the power cable and this applies to even just a few inches near the unit itself. I used a right angle micro USB connector to make the rear video cable connection neater.
So your dealer happily installed an add in fuse so you could piggy back a supply to your front sensors? if so can you send me a photo please?

If one dealer can do it then so can the rest of the network, in my opinion.

I've just spoken to ford technical. Basically we're fine to hard wire them in but if a fault occurs that can be attributed to the dash cam wiring, your warranty is void...although, they'd review it on a case by case basis.
 

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Actual

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So your dealer happily installed an add in fuse so you could piggy back a supply to your front sensors? if so can you send me a photo please?

If one dealer can do it then so can the rest of the network, in my opinion.

I've just spoken to ford technical. Basically we're fine to hard wire them in but if a fault occurs that can be attributed to the dash cam wiring, your warranty is void...although, they'd review it on a case by case basis.
Not exactly... My dealer installed the Xvision Parking Distance Sensors, front (fitted price) 1935219 ÂŁ399.00 as per the 29/02/2016 Mustang Pricelist (UK) and I noticed that they had used a piggy back add a fuse using Fuse 44 Vehicle Power 4 from the engine bay fusebox and also Fuse 36 Auxiliary body module from the passenger cabin fuse box.

I don't know if these fuse location were selected for only getting power or if they provide specific functionality. One of my projects is to understand how the Xvision module is wired and if there is a wire going through the firewall.
 

markleigh

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Actual... Slightly off thread but how do you select your front parking sensors. Do you have a separate switch? I wanted to connect mine so they're activated when the car's in reverse (as my current car) but dealer couldn't really assist and Ford are none the wiser. Thanks
 
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Actual

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Actual... Slightly off thread but how do you select your front parking sensors. Do you have a separate switch? I wanted to connect mine so they're activated when the car's in reverse (as my current car) but dealer doesn't know how to do it and Ford are none the wiser. Dealer suggested I go to an auto electrician... Thanks
The Xvision Parking Distance Sensors, front (fitted price) 1935219 ÂŁ399.00 as per the 29/02/2016 2015 Mustang Pricelist activate when the ignition is switched on. They are over sensitive so I suppress the beep beep beeping using the pushbutton/LED stuck to the dashboard to deactivate. If I'm coming in to land then I can optionally activate the sensors if I remember. The beep beep proximity is too sensitive but the continuous beeeeep is useful. I think that the sensors also activate if I select some combination of park, drive and reverse but I'm not sure which except it involves park (on my Mustang GT Auto).

Sorry if my contributions are long winded but if everyone spelt out 2015 Mustang in every forum post that it would be much easier to google stuff about our model Mustang!!!
 

wildcatgoal

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Tap into fuse 36 in passenger kick panel, which is an accessory fuse... done.

Or get to one of your 12V plugs by removing panels and then tap those wires (I prefer to solder vs. use tap clips). Be sure you run your power through a 12v to 5v (or whatever your camera needs) stepdown converter or use a hidden hardwired cig plug receiver to plug in the plug that came with the camera (which can be acquired at walmart as an extension, just cut off the male end).
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