OrangCrush
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I plan on getting on the Mishimoto radiator and Whipple HE. I am trying to keep my temps down since it's starting to get hot here.
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sigintel
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Anyone pull battery cover and coping and NOT see at least 10F improvement?
ahl395
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I believe it is the weather stripping/seal at the back of the hood/engine bay.
By removing that seal it allows airflow to come out of the back of the hood and take more heat out of the engine compartment.
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Roh92cp
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sigintel
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Firewall plastic piece is coping. If you look at battery cover and coping stock, you notice it has a raised section to mate with rubber weather strip on underside of hood.
Removing all three opens a large gap that allows substantial ventilation especially sitting stopped in traffic.
sigintel
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noticed huge change especially hualing ass into stop go traffic 110F summer.
240F CHT down to 230F and then some.
When the Reische 170 tstat is already full open and temps still climbing, this made significant difference.
Doesnt matter what tstat or if you take it completely out if you cant get hot air out of engine bay. Our hood vents suck stock.
Already running GT350 rad.
240F CHT down to 230F and then some.
When the Reische 170 tstat is already full open and temps still climbing, this made significant difference.
Doesnt matter what tstat or if you take it completely out if you cant get hot air out of engine bay. Our hood vents suck stock.
Already running GT350 rad.
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Bbarfoot14
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Any water leaking issue?
sigintel
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I had some minor issues with stock orings weeping on the heater hose fittings on the block.
Pictures and info in this thread.... searching... where the hell..
edit:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/coolant-leak-head-gasket.100993/#post-2199871
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/coolant-leak-head-gasket.100993/#post-2212878
Aaron1085
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Can we get some pictures, I’m a visual learner. Here is my level currently; totally new to this car so learning a lot day by day.
Can I just go get some Ford coolant and call it a day, or so I need to mix distilled water and coolant ???
Can I just go get some Ford coolant and call it a day, or so I need to mix distilled water and coolant ???
Angrey
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This question is multi dimensional.
here's a great reference: https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/ethylene-glycol-d_146.html
1) Yes, for temperatures where FREEZING aren't a concern, water has about a 20% higher specific heat (thermal capacity as measured by volume) over ethylene glycol and propylene glycol in a 50/50 mixture.
2) However, once the fluid boils and becomes a gaseous state, the heat transfer properties plummet (gases of similar volume have a fraction of the thermal capacity to their corresponding liquids). This means that if you live somewhere hot climate, your system will cool more efficiently running straight water than a mixture with antifreeze, right up until the point that it boils, which is lower for straight water than it is for a mixture (or even straight antifreeze).
3) The cooling system can extend the boiling point of SOME of the coolant through pressurization. That is to say, water boils at "STP" at 212F or 0C. However, under pressure it can elevate that boiling point but it's not appreciable for our discussions here and at pressures we'd like to see in our coolant system.
4) Antifreeze ALSO aids in cooling improvements through pressure drop and viscosity, improving the flow characteristics (and thus the cooling, more flow = more heat transfer = more cooling).
Bottom line is, I wouldn't recommend running anything less than 70/30 (water to antifreeze) for anything other than a trailer queen race car. It doesn't make sense to run straight water in a daily car in cold climates (for freezing risk) and it doesn't make sense for a daily in hot climates (because the antifreeze helps elevate the boiling point above normal operating temps, thus keeping the much greater liquid heat transfer properties vs the greatly diminished gaseous properties), and it also improves flow which again helps cooling.
In summary, run straight water, but once the motor gets really hot, the straight water mix will fall on it's face as it boils and stifles flow. But for a single pass, yes, the more water you have the more heat it will be able to (generally) draw out of the system and cool the motor. There's a balancing act here between thermal capacity, flow improvements and boiling point elevation.
Noteworthy is that a 70/30 mix is a very slight tradeoff (still yielding a 220F boiling point vs a 225F temp for 50/50) and also yielding only a 2% reduction in specific heat while still giving decent improvements in viscosity and flow benefits.
here's a great reference: https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/ethylene-glycol-d_146.html
1) Yes, for temperatures where FREEZING aren't a concern, water has about a 20% higher specific heat (thermal capacity as measured by volume) over ethylene glycol and propylene glycol in a 50/50 mixture.
2) However, once the fluid boils and becomes a gaseous state, the heat transfer properties plummet (gases of similar volume have a fraction of the thermal capacity to their corresponding liquids). This means that if you live somewhere hot climate, your system will cool more efficiently running straight water than a mixture with antifreeze, right up until the point that it boils, which is lower for straight water than it is for a mixture (or even straight antifreeze).
3) The cooling system can extend the boiling point of SOME of the coolant through pressurization. That is to say, water boils at "STP" at 212F or 0C. However, under pressure it can elevate that boiling point but it's not appreciable for our discussions here and at pressures we'd like to see in our coolant system.
4) Antifreeze ALSO aids in cooling improvements through pressure drop and viscosity, improving the flow characteristics (and thus the cooling, more flow = more heat transfer = more cooling).
Bottom line is, I wouldn't recommend running anything less than 70/30 (water to antifreeze) for anything other than a trailer queen race car. It doesn't make sense to run straight water in a daily car in cold climates (for freezing risk) and it doesn't make sense for a daily in hot climates (because the antifreeze helps elevate the boiling point above normal operating temps, thus keeping the much greater liquid heat transfer properties vs the greatly diminished gaseous properties), and it also improves flow which again helps cooling.
In summary, run straight water, but once the motor gets really hot, the straight water mix will fall on it's face as it boils and stifles flow. But for a single pass, yes, the more water you have the more heat it will be able to (generally) draw out of the system and cool the motor. There's a balancing act here between thermal capacity, flow improvements and boiling point elevation.
Noteworthy is that a 70/30 mix is a very slight tradeoff (still yielding a 220F boiling point vs a 225F temp for 50/50) and also yielding only a 2% reduction in specific heat while still giving decent improvements in viscosity and flow benefits.
Aaron1085
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Honestly, I want easy as possible with common sense for motor & power preservation. I drive around town, I rip here and there. This won’t be a trailer queen and this won’t likely be taken to the track (straight or road course).
I’d prefer to dump some proper, pre-mixed coolant in the radiator and Whipple inter cooler box and call it a day.
What’s odd is; the Whipple instructions call for a higher level when the car is cold. Mike is lower. When I turned the pump on, The level rose and I could see the fluid bubbling / shaking around a bit. But it’s basically opposite of what Whipple has laid out in their diagram. Here are the attached photos from CAR OFF to CAR ON.
I’d prefer to dump some proper, pre-mixed coolant in the radiator and Whipple inter cooler box and call it a day.
What’s odd is; the Whipple instructions call for a higher level when the car is cold. Mike is lower. When I turned the pump on, The level rose and I could see the fluid bubbling / shaking around a bit. But it’s basically opposite of what Whipple has laid out in their diagram. Here are the attached photos from CAR OFF to CAR ON.
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