Colder spark plugs with tune?

[MAPerformance]

Just one.

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[wmsky33]

I also have mine at 0.028.
You want to use the widest gap that you can to ensure a more complete and powerful combustion process, but you don't want that gap to be so wide that the spark gets blown out and you have misfires. I usually start on the higher end of the recommendations and work my way down, 0.001 at a time, to reach where the engine seems to operate the best.

^^This^^ if you just blindly gap to a smaller gap, like 0.026, you could be losing out on some performance. In the past, before exotic metal plugs, like iridium, you had to gap smaller because the plug electrodes would wear faster, and you had to account for that. With iridium plugs and center electrodes of 0.5mm or larger, you don't really have to worry about wear for probably at least 50k miles. So, start out higher, make sure you test it under full boost, looking for any signs of misfire, and stop when the engine is running best. Maybe tighten the gap another 0.001 for a little cushion, but that's up to you.

 

[MAPerformance]

^^This^^ if you just blindly gap to a smaller gap, like 0.026, you could be losing out on some performance. In the past, before exotic metal plugs, like iridium, you had to gap smaller because the plug electrodes would wear faster, and you had to account for that. With iridium plugs and center electrodes of 0.5mm or larger, you don't really have to worry about wear for probably at least 50k miles. So, start out higher, make sure you test it under full boost, looking for any signs of misfire, and stop when the engine is running best. Maybe tighten the gap I another 0.001 for a little cushion, but that's up to you.

Almost every EBM I've tuned has consistent results at .026-.028 only one car did I have to have them pull the plus back out and try .030 to get the results I was looking for. It's best to fine tune plug gaps with dataloging capability, that's how I got to my recommendation in my spark plug post.

 

[wmsky33]

Almost every EBM I've tuned has consistent results at .026-.028 only one car did I have to have them pull the plus back out and try .030 to get the results I was looking for. It's best to fine tune plug gaps with dataloging capability, that's how I got to my recommendation in my spark plug post.

Not questioning your recommendation. I've been very impressed with the level of information that MAPerformance posts on this forum, especially because you back it up with solid testing. And I doubt if anyone, except someone to whom a tenth of a second in a 1/4 mile is important, could tell the difference between plugs gapped at .026 and .028. So, unless you're anal, like me, pull the plugs, gap them all to a consistent .026, put 'em back in and drive happy. I'm just the kind of guy that wants to get as much as I can for free, except of course for the time I spend, so I'll continue to try to get a gap as large as I can. I just wish I had your testing equipment.

 

[MakStang]

Why did you stop posting in this thread? It's a very interesting topic.

Come on, lets revive it. I will do the first step.

I have ordered my NGK LTR7IX-11 (6510) 1-step colder Spark Plugs - Pre-gapped to TUNE+ Specifications. I hope to receive them in a couple of weeks. Any advise, tips, or special techniques on how to pull out the stock ones and how to install the NGKs? Is there anything that I should be careful about?

 

[EcoBOSS]

Look up "Indexing"
Clock the plugs so the ground strap is facing the front or rear of the engine (I chose the front).
Use a good quality anti-seize and don't be afraid of using gobs of dielectric grease.

 

[MakStang]

:lol:

 

[FreePenguin]

I am using this guide to install spark plugs tomorrow, should all spark plugs be gapped .028? I am replacing stock heat Ruthenium HX plugs, 90495 (same oem heat, but ruthenium NGKs) doing it just because I am almost 30k miles and not sure if they are within range, and if they was gapped correctly at factory anyway.

When I put the plugs in, just hand turn til won't turn, then a small snug with wrench?: im afraid of them breaking but also afraid of them not being tightened enough. Lol.

Does anyone know the OEM gap of oem factory plugs?

 

[PRG3k]

I'd stick with the OEM Motor-craft plugs unless you're going a step colder, and in that case get the NGK 6510s. I'm not really sure how common the stock plug gap issue is but its probably pretty rare. When I checked mine they were spot on and I had an early 2015 build date back they could barely build two of these things the same. The new Motor-Craft plugs you get will be properly gapped when you receive them and although they're OEM, they're pretty damn good and durable for what they are. (Motor-Craft oil filters have the same reputation.) Motorcraft plugs have never given me a problem but NGK's have. They'll offer less potential headache than swapping an OEM plug for an aftermarket one in the same heat range that you will also need to close the gap on. Gapping plugs seems easy but ppl find plenty of ways to screw it up and mar/scuff the electrodes.

Just my .02

If you want to try anyway, I think the stock gap is .027-.031 so anything in that range is acceptable.

Torque spec for spark plugs is 13ft/lbs, which isn't much. It sounds like its time for a torque wrench. Invest in a 1/2" torque wrench and get a little 1/2" to 3/8" adapter to use on smaller things like the spark plugs. You'll be surprised at how often you'll use it. Just make sure and buy one that can go as low as 13 ft/lbs. Some don't go that low.

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