Cold Air Intakes

[Jimboy2]

The hood vents are heat extractors. Don't think they aid in any way for cold air induction

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[kapiteinlangzaam]

The hood vents are heat extractors. Don't think they aid in any way for cold air induction

But they should aid under bonnet temps.

Ive seen 46C+ already on my inlet temps, and they ECU begins to retard the timing at 36C.

Heat insulation and better inlet ducting is my first priority for the spring.

 

[Enoch]

I looking at the design of various cai there appear to be two basic types:
1. Closed air box that source air from the front of the car via a snorkel
2. Open top that source air from the US spec bonnet vents.

See here for pics
http://www.americanmuscle.com/2015-...es.html#2015-mustang-cold-air-intakes-shopby1

Now it strikes me that unless you fit hood vents or have a US market car with them installed by default, the second type will starve the engine of air or suck hot air via any gaps that can be exploited from the engine bay. Hence us folks in Europe must surely opt for the first type or cut holes in our bodywork...
The roush intake appears to be open top but fitted with a snorkel so I guess this gets massive forced crossflow airflow if you have vents.
Am I missing something? Discuss...

I was under the impression that the open type still get their air from the snorkel at the front....and that they're only open when the bonnet is up.
When it's down it seals against the rubber seal running around the top of the airbox

 

[v8hgt]

I was under the impression that the open type still get their air from the snorkel at the front....and that they're only open when the bonnet is up.
When it's down it seals against the rubber seal running around the top of the airbox

That may well be the case. I'm only basing my comment on the images online which show no obvious snorkel on some types hence my supposition that they must therefore source air from another source. It could be simply that the snorkel isn't shown in the photos. Seems to me that the best solution would be ram air into a sealed, heat shielded air box, super bike style. The bigmouth intake and closed box seem to fit the bill most closely. But I can't help thinking back to when I ran fast bikes. My 749R ran a bigger air box than the 5.0 mustang and had 2 ram tubes with double the area of a bigmouth. Now considering fabricating my own airbox and ram tubes housing a high flow filter..... is there any point over an air raid/ roush etc?

 

[slowhand99]

The hood vents are heat extractors. Don't think they aid in any way for cold air induction

Yes. If they were you'd have water pissing into your intake if the car is standing outside in the rain.

 

[Gibbo205]

But they should aid under bonnet temps.

Ive seen 46C+ already on my inlet temps, and they ECU begins to retard the timing at 36C.

Heat insulation and better inlet ducting is my first priority for the spring.

You need to check my IAT guide. ;)

I have PMAS:

IAT Mods
Highway: 2c above ambient
City: 3-5c above ambient
Traffic: 6-10c above ambient

Before IAT Mods
Highway: 3-5c above ambient
City: 8-12c above ambient
Traffic: 15-30c above ambient


Timing is pulled at 36c, but the ECU also adds in timing for lower IAT's, so the cooler the better. This is why on a crisp 5c dry cold day a car always feels stronger than say a hot summers 30c day.

Every 3c cooler intake temp can be worth a pony, so 30 degrees could be an easy 10 horses.

Look up my thread of modding IAT, its all posted here.

 

[Leeroy]

I seem to remember at one time on this very forum the general view was the stock air box with decent MIT and panel filter and perhaps bigmouth or other ram mods was a better solution overall to control IATs and improve airflow

 

[16s550]

Pmas

 

[Gibbo205]

I seem to remember at one time on this very forum the general view was the stock air box with decent MIT and panel filter and perhaps bigmouth or other ram mods was a better solution overall to control IATs and improve airflow

This will give you absolutely the best throttle response and smoothest throttle and keep the car in optimal running conditions at all times.

If however you want more power then a CAI is required, but then you risk losing the extra power created by the CAI if you cannot keep your IATs down making it a pointless operation.

It is something to consider, all the CAI's on the market bar say Roush/Ford are designed by companies with one goal in mind, making more horsepower and sometimes it is not always about horsepower.

I'd rather have 10 less horses for a smoother driving car with better throttle modulation. That is why stock intakes have funny shapes, resonators etc. as they disturb the airflow on purpose to create the smoothest driving experience and of course to reduce noise/emissions.

I have said it before for the best driving experience:
- Stock air box
- K&N panel filter
- Airaid MIT
- Remove sound tube
- Velossa big mouth
- Open up front grill


That will vastly improve throttle response, but most importantly the smoothness and modulation will remain, it won't become jumpy like it does with a CAI though not all drivers can detect this, but both Lund and JDM confirmed my findings as true.

Power wise the above won't make you much on a dyno, maybe 5BHP at most but it does guarantee your always getting full power and with high speed momentum you will make more power due to ram air effect of cold air being forced into the cold air box.

 

[Gibbo205]

Hi there


For those willing to custom tune (LUND) but don't want to rev the engine beyond 7000 and want to maintain and further improve low down torque your best option is this:

http://www.levittownfordparts.com/mobile/ford-racing-mustang-cold-intake-p-3054.html

- GT 350 CAI with GT 350 TB with adapter: $400
- Lund tune with Ngauge: $500

Lets say your a numpty and cannot install it yourself lets call it £1000 all in.

For that 1k you will see 40-50lb/ft and 50-60BHP. Lets say best potential 475BHP/420lb/ft.

That is just head line figures, the car would drive like something different, infact with that setup my fingers are crossed that it drives like an E46/E92 M3, by that I mean for instant/snappy throttle response anywhere in the rev range with silky smooth throttle modulation/control.

That kit should do that and it should put an AUTO in the 12@115mph range, maybe faster but to do that you will need to be one hell of a drag racer, big burnout, perfect launch and absolute perfect run. But its a big improvement on 13@107 which is what a typical stock car runs, of course some are faster and some are slower, again driver mod.

 

[Enoch]

After a week of shopping around, I finally bit the bullet and went with the Roush...

Got a good deal from CJPP..

 

[hinch]

After a week of shopping around, I finally bit the bullet and went with the Roush...

Got a good deal from CJPP..

do tell? better than the uk price of mountune? (£443.99)

 

[Enoch]

do tell? better than the uk price of mountune? (£443.99)

£333 shipped

$295.99 CAI
$106.33 Shipping

Paid by PP and it worked out at £333.23

I suspect there'll be duty on top but it'll still work out cheaper than I could find from a UK supplier..... plus CJ actually had stock.

 

[hinch]

once you know the duty give me a shout i know mountune have stock too already spoke to them i'm reluctant to order from yank land if I can avoid it due to getting bent over with tax / potential hold up in customs if they decide to be shit about it. Now i've got her back from detailers its time to start work on engine mods

 

[Enoch]

once you know the duty give me a shout i know mountune have stock too already spoke to them i'm reluctant to order from yank land if I can avoid it due to getting bent over with tax / potential hold up in customs if they decide to be shit about it. Now i've got her back from detailers its time to start work on engine mods

Will do....but just be aware that CJ price may go up after black friday

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