Clutch line fluid replacement after brake fluid flush

[MICHPP2]

What's the best way to get the old fluid out of the clutch line after flushing the brake fluid?

I'm about to flush my brake fluid, and I want to know how to get the old fluid out of the clutch line. I figure I can flush the brake fluid and brake lines with a pressure bleeder, and then bleed the clutch with a vacuum pump and reservoir plug how Ford instructions say to do it, but would that reintroduce the old fluid from the clutch line back into the reservoir?

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[sk47]

Hello; I flush the hydraulic clutch fluid on a Nissan Sentra I currently own. It has the advantage of having the slave cylinder external of the bell housing. There is a nipple on the slave cylinder much like the ones found on brake systems. The trick for me was how to do the flush by myself. I cut a short narrow board, say a 1x2 to length. A length such that I could push the clutch all the way in with the board and brace one end against the front of the drivers seat. I put a piece of plywood in between the seat and the board end to prevent damage.
Once the clutch is fully depressed I open the bleeder valve at the slave cylinder and let the fluid out. Attaching a hose on the bleeder valve prevents a mess. Then close the bleeder valve. After that remove the board and work the clutch pedal until it has refilled the lines. Then repeat until new fluid in coming out the bleeder valve. Keep the reservoir topped off.

I had a Ford pickup with a hydraulic clutch. The slave cylinder failed. Unfortunately the slave cylinder was inside the bell housing. Had to pull the transmission to replace the slave cylinder. After getting the transmission back in the issue was how to bleed out the air from the system. I went ahead and replaced the clutch master cylinder and lines while I was at it. I tried a few ways to get this done, again by myself, which failed. Including using a hand vacuum pump.

What I finally came up with was to modify one of those pumps used to fill the lower unit of an outboard motor. The bleeder valve bits were outside the bell housing so I had access. I eventually pumped the new fluid up from the bottom. It was a tricky method of working out how to open the valve, hold the input line in place, pump the brake fluid in and then close the valve. I could have used three hands. It was messy and took a few trials. Eventually got it done. That was maybe 25 years ago.

My adventures may not help you at all. The setup may be very different on the more modern vehicles.
Good luck

 

[NGOT8R]

Just disconnect the clutch line at the transmission and let it drain into a clean container. When the fluid is clean, plug the clutch line back into it’s fitting on the transmission and you’re good to go. If you still have the factory clutch line, this would be a good time to upgrade to a braided line. There are several videos online that show the procedure.

 

[MICHPP2]

Just disconnect the clutch line at the transmission and let it drain into a clean container. When the fluid is clean, plug the clutch line back into it’s fitting on the transmission and you’re good to go. If you still have the factory clutch line, this would be a good time to upgrade to a braided line. There are several videos online that show the procedure.

Is that essentially the gravity bleed procedure? And I imagine it should be done with the cap off the reservoir, is that right?

 

[NGOT8R]

Yes, that’s correct you’ll be letting gravity do the work. Leave the cap off of the reservoir and have brake fluid on hand to keep it topped off. Once you’re all done flushing the line, plug it back into the fitting on the tranny, put the cap back on the reservoir, get into the car and pump the clutch pedal 200-300 times to bleed the air out of the system.

 

[Shifting_Gears]

Yes, that’s correct you’ll be letting gravity do the work. Leave the cap off of the reservoir and have brake fluid on hand to keep it topped off. Once you’re all done flushing the line, plug it back into the fitting on the tranny, put the cap back on the reservoir, get into the car and pump the clutch pedal 200-300 times to bleed the air out of the system.

There’s no need to bleed the line at the transmission?

 

[NGOT8R]

The method that I described is what I used when changing my factory line to a braided line and it worked perfectly. I suppose the OP could press the clutch pedal several times with the line off to get fluid out of the slave cylinder before reconnecting it to the tranny.

 

[Elp_jc]

There’s no need to bleed the line at the transmission?

Of course there is, but we can't, because the slave cylinder doesn't even have a bleed valve. That's why I'm not sure it's even worth bleeding the master cylinder.

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