sigintel
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2015
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- Republic of Texas, God's Country
- First Name
- Ray
- Vehicle(s)
- 2018 GT
Just trying to help
Maybe check wire harness at back of block hasn't been cooked from hanging low?
Codes after changing sensors just means there is a real mechanical problem in the timing train like bad chain, sprockets, phasers, etc.
Take them pizza for lunch one day.
Be calm and professional and stay informed.
This sounds more like a Ford production part issue (not their fault) in the timing train and very difficult for them to find.
Ask them to go easy after changing cam sensors. They probably already realize that if they still get codes the issue is mechanical and timing chain is stretched or crank sprocket cracked. If they get frustrated and just freakn rev it to shiz you might break the timing chain, gear, etc and trash the heads or motor.
From experience on NSX motors, symptoms of stretched/worn belts:
timing problems or codes thrown:
after engine is up to temperature
at high rpm
at high rates of rpm change
under heavy engine breaking
On the Coyote motors, running anything other than 5W-20 or anything other than Ford oil filter might also be added to the list.
Did you recently change oil to a different weight or use a non Ford filter?
Yes, chains and belts are different but chains do wear and build lash and the coyote motors drivers side bank secondary tensioner is wonky.
The cost of replacing the entire timing train is way cheaper before it breaks than after if there is head damage. $440 in parts:
http://www.levittownfordsupercenter.com/ford-racing-camshaft-drive-p-4160.html
drivers side $60 fix or just cut your own mount from AL plate:
http://www.modularmotorsportsracing.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=864
Are the codes on the same bank or different banks? <= super helpful
If different banks, then changing sensors likely not the problem.
If same bank, is it drivers side bank? <=
How often would you come on/off throttle at high rpm while still in gear?
ie. how often was there engine breaking above 6000 rpm?
ie. floored it in 2nd gear till just short of redline and then let off throttle without pushing clutch in?
Maybe check wire harness at back of block hasn't been cooked from hanging low?
Codes after changing sensors just means there is a real mechanical problem in the timing train like bad chain, sprockets, phasers, etc.
Take them pizza for lunch one day.
Be calm and professional and stay informed.
This sounds more like a Ford production part issue (not their fault) in the timing train and very difficult for them to find.
Ask them to go easy after changing cam sensors. They probably already realize that if they still get codes the issue is mechanical and timing chain is stretched or crank sprocket cracked. If they get frustrated and just freakn rev it to shiz you might break the timing chain, gear, etc and trash the heads or motor.
From experience on NSX motors, symptoms of stretched/worn belts:
timing problems or codes thrown:
after engine is up to temperature
at high rpm
at high rates of rpm change
under heavy engine breaking
On the Coyote motors, running anything other than 5W-20 or anything other than Ford oil filter might also be added to the list.
Did you recently change oil to a different weight or use a non Ford filter?
Yes, chains and belts are different but chains do wear and build lash and the coyote motors drivers side bank secondary tensioner is wonky.
The cost of replacing the entire timing train is way cheaper before it breaks than after if there is head damage. $440 in parts:
http://www.levittownfordsupercenter.com/ford-racing-camshaft-drive-p-4160.html
drivers side $60 fix or just cut your own mount from AL plate:
http://www.modularmotorsportsracing.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=864
Are the codes on the same bank or different banks? <= super helpful
If different banks, then changing sensors likely not the problem.
If same bank, is it drivers side bank? <=
How often would you come on/off throttle at high rpm while still in gear?
ie. how often was there engine breaking above 6000 rpm?
ie. floored it in 2nd gear till just short of redline and then let off throttle without pushing clutch in?
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