Charge system issues

[nicolasfinta1]

So I have 12,000 miles on my 2018 Shelby gt350 recently I installed a WOT box on my Shelby and than all of a sudden I’ve been getting charging issues at first it would just come on and off briefly and eventually it got worse and worse I tested the battery it tests fine at about 12.3-12.5 volts even thought it’s a 2015 battery it’s still running fine it go to bad that I actually ended up changing the alternator but that actually made it worse it now when driving jumps from 12.7 volts to more than 16 volts and when it it does that my whole cluster turns off my power steering stops and my infotainment turns off please help

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[nicolasfinta1]

Also gonna mention I did remove all the wire taps for the wot box to make sure it wasn’t the wot box that was causing the issue just left the ignition cables connected to it

 

[nicolasfinta1]

Someone please

 

[Rapid Red]

This does not look very promising... do you see your car on this list?

 

[Rock50]

This is a good article describing on how to test the alternator: https://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.6L-5.4L/ford-p0620-alternator-diagnostic-test-1. Thinking same applies to your GT350. I would start there. Could be the replacement alternator is bad. Otherwise, potentially a PCM issue. Speed sensor code is probably an unrelated problem, but won't hurt to swap that sensor too. When the WOT module was installed, did you connect it to the correct wires? Possibly you damaged some wires when installing/removing the WOT module?

 

[nicolasfinta1]

This is a good article describing on how to test the alternator: https://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.6L-5.4L/ford-p0620-alternator-diagnostic-test-1. Thinking same applies to your GT350. I would start there. Could be the replacement alternator is bad. Otherwise, potentially a PCM issue. Speed sensor code is probably an unrelated problem, but won't hurt to swap that sensor too. When the WOT module was installed, did you connect it to the correct wires? Possibly you damaged some wires when installing/removing the WOT module?

I don’t think I damaged any wires going from the pcm I’ll try the diagnostics and see if it’s the new alternator I don’t think it has anything to do with the wot box since the wot box only uses a couple cables 2 cables for cutting the ignition 1 cable for the clutch one for the brake pedal and one for the accelerator unless those codes can be caused by ignition I don’t think it’s that I cleared the code and that speed sensor code hasn’t come up

 

[Rapid Red]

thoughts
1 how did you determine that the alt was/is the bad actor?
2 alt now installed, new, rebuilt, and if reman, part sourced?
3 have you considered reinstalling the original alt, to see if the car acts as it was before it was replaced.

That could indicate, it's not the alt or the reman has it's own problems.


Also if this were my car "2015 battery" would have been the first choice to replace, it can read good with a meter............... but you have NO way telling what the condition the battery cells themselves are in.

That is an old battery.

See if there is any useful info here, the codes may differ but troubleshoot guide should be the same.


Good luck

 

[Cobra Jet]

Batteries just don't last as long as they used to anymore. Even when buying brand new batteries, you're lucky to get a warranty that is close to useful (2yr, 3yr?).

A factory supplied "Motorcraft" labeled battery that lasted 5-6years, consider yourself half lucky. There's threads on here with folks who have blight brand new S550's and the batteries are prematurely failing with some less than a year old or others in the 2 year range.

Check ALL of your ground locations and make sure all grounds are good - not just by looking at them but making sure the metal to metal contact is good. Check your battery cables for any signs of corrosion that is leaching up into the cable from the terminals.

I personally don't think the alternator was bad at all. 99% of issues reported as the "alternator", most of the time a simple replacement of the voltage regulator (usually attached to the backside of some alternators), which is usually a $30-$75 part, alleviates the charging and "alternator issue". More modern day alternators may have an internal regulator or just be an electronic circuit board. Instead of testing the actual voltage regulator, most folks just immediately replace the alternator - waste of money. The only time an alternator is really bad is when the internal bearings are shot and you'll know that by sound alone.

I haven't looked at an S550 wiring diagram or alternator - but if on the backside of the alternator there is a connector with 2 wires going to a connector hat wouid plug into a small attached unit on the alternator, that's the voltage regulator. An external regulator can be removed and replaced. An internal regulator could be replaced but it's a much more involved process.

I would check all grounds, test the voltage regulator (many online How Tos) and test the battery properly - not just by looking at it and thinking it's still good or taking it for what the scanner is showing while running

No offense, but I think you wasted money replacing the alternator. Return it if you can, that is, if you haven't relinquished your old one for a core...

 

[nicolasfinta1]

I think it wasn’t the alternator but I’m fine with keeping the new one I did damage the old one removing so thats fine it’s a brand new ford alternator from the parts department my thought was that it’s the generator current sensor either being damaged or the wires from my wot box interfering with it I’m going to do a further diagnostics today

 

[Jackson1320]

Do you have a aftermarket tune?

 

[nicolasfinta1]

Do you have a aftermarket tune?

Yes I do

 

[Jackson1320]

In the tune the output of the alternator can be adjusted. Have you tried the stock tune to see if it still has the problem

 

[thegtway]

did you ever get this resolved ? im currently having the same issue

 

[nicolasfinta1]

did you ever get this resolved ? im currently having the same issue

Yes for me it turned out it was the pigtail to the alternator that was the issue my guess is that the female side had a pin that was over spread what I did is I bought a new pigtail and spliced it in you can probably just buy a replacement pin but I found it easier soldering a joint here is the part number WPT-118 WIRING PIGTAIL 1U2Z-14s411-TA , 1U2Z14s411TA

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