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Changing oil and oil filter in Performance Package GT

skytop1

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I could not find any post for changing oil and filter on the PP GT, so I photographed my oil change today to help others with the unique installation condition of the Performance Package GT.

Use extreme caution when working under the car and use two floor jacks by the L & R 'A' frames optionally leave the primary hydraulic jack if not in the way. Also, chock rear wheels and set E brake. Have engine a wee bit warm to help oil to flow out easily and have advantage pf oil remainder coating the top end and bottom end of the engine. Open hood and crack the oil filler cap ajar to allow air to flow. Lower hood ajar. (I purchased the PAIR of 2 ton floor jacks for $8.99 at Walmart).

Because of the belly pan, you must use a real low profile capable hydraulic jack located in the front center of the car. You will be lifting at the cross member that is just behind the oil pan. The jack will not interfere with draining the engine oil or the oil filter flush. I put a blue tape around the jack handle to indicate how far in the jack must go to meet the cross member. Be certain to use the floor jacks. See photo 1:


The Performance Package belly pan has a dandy flip down 'door' that is secured by a single small bolt (metric). The door easily opens and provide adequate opening space to remove and re install a properly primed (filled with oil) oil filter without spilling oil. See photo 2:



Oil pan bolt (metric) is easy to unscrew. Have your drain container ready and if it has an air release, open it. I learned of the air vent about 30 second too late! See photo: 3



I found it very easy to install the fresh oil filter fill of oil (lubricate the gasket) without spilling any oil. Working through the belly pan door is not a problem at all. Reinstall the oil pan bolt at 26 Nm (19 lb-ft). See photo 4:



My car took about 7 1/2 quarts. I will check oil level tomorrow after a brief ride. Watching the oil guage, I cranked and fired the engine two times and immediately shut it each time. When I started it up the third time, I at once saw the oil gauge show solid pressure. Make sure you observe your oil pressure gauge when first starting. Remove everything under the car, lower car and after a brief clean up, you are good to go!
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hiccup

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Im gonna be doing this in a few weeks for the first time. Kinda confused on what you mean about venting air to avoid a mess. I usually take off fill cap before drain plug comes out though. Thanks for the pics. I havent been under my gt yet
 

hiccup

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I reread and get what you were saying. Lol ive made that same mess too haha.
 

highvoltage

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Easy oil change!

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TruBlu16GT

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Ramps are generally much better for oil changes.
 

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skytop1

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Do you know from experience if the lowered performance package cars have sufficient clearance to use ramps?
I thought the ramps were too steep from the metal ones I saw at Harbor Freight.
 
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activeGT

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I think you had a failure in the oil draining part of this. :doh:
 

wildcatgoal

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I suck the oil out first, then drain what's left after lifting the car. A large plastic grocery bag used over the filter once you break the seal and can spin with your hand resolves a lot of mess (takes some attention to make sure the oil actually goes into the bag). Fill 7 to 7.5 quarts will get you to about 1/2 or so up the fill range on the dipstick (which is ever so conveniently placed right smack under the strut tower brace, grrrr). Start car, give it bit to run, turn it off, check oil level and fill until you reach the full line, probably another .5 quarts to 1 quart depending on how much you were able to drain and how much you actually put back in. I use the Penzoil "that comes from natural gas" which got me at least another 100 hp alone... ;) I used the Motorcraft filter because it's perfectly fine and inexpensive at Wally World. And the only reason I ever set foot into a Walmart is for oil, oil filters, wiper blades, and toilet paper... so I have a good amount of toilet paper now, too. I did get a Snickers... which I always regret getting after scarfing it down. I digress...
 

Twenty15

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Do you know from experience if the lowered performance package cars have sufficient clearance to use ramps?
I thought the ramps were too steep from the metal ones I saw at Harbor Freight.
You can use 6' 2 X 4's to lesson the grade of the ramps. Put some supports under the boards to reduce flexing.
 

SkattrBrane

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I hate the location of the oil filter. I got oil up in the plastic air diverters. I used old rags to try to wipe it out but it still dripped slowly for 2 days. A drip here.. A drip there.. I had to keep an old blanket on top of plastic.
 

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skytop1

skytop1

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I suck the oil out first, then drain what's left after lifting the car. ..
What do you use to suck the oil up with? Does your wife know you use her house vacuum cleaner? Ha ha. Seriously, what do you use? Thanks for the filter in the bag suggestion. I will try that next time.

Many years ago in 1989, I had an BMW M6 which was a gorgeous road machine. However, BMW mounted the oil filter in a horizontal position. Also, the filter was NOT a cartridge but rather a filter placed inside an metal screw on container. What a mess that was when removed. I watched the dealer remove the oil filter and never saw anyone use your bag trick. A very messy job, for sure.
 

highvoltage

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I hate the location of the oil filter. I got oil up in the plastic air diverters. I used old rags to try to wipe it out but it still dripped slowly for 2 days. A drip here.. A drip there.. I had to keep an old blanket on top of plastic.
Really? Howd you manage that? Did you tip the filter? Cause you think this oil filter is a pain try an F150 5.0. This think is cake.

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plc268

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On the non-pp GT, you have to unscrew 5 hex screws (two different sizes) to remove a plastic panel to access the oil filter. A door would've been nice.

I don't know how anyone can prime the oil filter and get it into place. I tried that the first time, and I just made more of a mess. But I am a bit clumsy at times.
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