Changes to GT350 that help track day performance

[honeybadger]

I don't think this item can be understated. A GT350 will generate a lot of grip. It's a lot more difficult to modulate the brakes and throttle (much less steering) when you are working hard to keep from being thrown around in the car. You will get a lot more out of the car with at least a good harness pulled super tightly so that you can relax and focus on being smooth and accurate with your inputs. This is especially true towards the end of a 15-20 minute session or towards the end of the day after you've had a number of sessions on track.

I don't think a racing seat is absolutely necessary (at least it isn't for me with the stock Pilot SS tires), but IMO a harness is. I can really relax in my technology pack seats with the harness pulled tight. I remember at the GT350 Track Attack I had the same issue (being thrown around) in the track pack seats until I cranked on the harness and got it super tight. Shroth makes a harness that you can use with the factory seats.

Like you're saying, I'd split what most of us think as safety equipment into 2 areas.

1. Stuff that helps you not crash (belts to hold you down, gloves to better grip the wheel, etc.)
2. Stuff that saves your life when you do (helmets, HANS device, roll bar/cage, competition seat, etc.).

Absolutely blows my mind when I see folks in the intermediate/advanced run groups running with a 3-pt harness and just a helmet. Scary stuff.

Was talking to a guy at MSR-C that went into the tire wall at little bend due to lost brakes. AIM said he hit the wall at 113 mph. His 6-pt harness and HANS device most likely saved his life.

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[MikeR397]

The biggest ROI on camber plates is going to be better wear. If you're pushing hard, they're an absolutely necessity unless you want to chunk your fronts after 2-3 days.

Turn-in is most definitely improved and it's a tangible benefit IMHO if you're pushing hard enough. These cars LOVE camber.

My fronts both chunked half way through the fifth session, albiet one was 2/3 in the rain and the final was at Waterford hills which was the last day before they repaved it and it was Very rough with concrete apex’s is why I figured they chunked. However, as I swapped left to right they both chunked and chorded at the same time and 4 full aggressive track days (5 20 min sessions) seems all we can expect out of oem cup 2 is my thought.

As for turn in, I was just curious if it’s a big deal. I’m not timing myself and don’t know how much it will improve things. As it is, I’m generally too fast as is and constantly on peoples ass waiting for passing zones to the effect I really don’t like doing non full open passing events anymore.

Pics are front left and right. I’m just still on the fence if I want to deal with the pita to diy for $250 or probably cost $500+ for a dealer to install these bc im too lazy! The car is damn good stock!

 

[honeybadger]

My fronts both chunked half way through the fifth session, albiet one was 2/3 in the rain and the final was at Waterford hills which was the last day before they repaved it and it was Very rough with concrete apex’s is why I figured they chunked. However, as I swapped left to right they both chunked and chorded at the same time and 4 full aggressive track days (5 20 min sessions) seems all we can expect out of oem cup 2 is my thought.

As for turn in, I was just curious if it’s a big deal. I’m not timing myself and don’t know how much it will improve things. As it is, I’m generally too fast as is and constantly on peoples ass waiting for passing zones to the effect I really don’t like doing non full open passing events anymore.

Pics are front left and right. I’m just still on the fence if I want to deal with the pita to diy for $250 or probably cost $500+ for a dealer to install these bc im too lazy! The car is damn good stock!

Based on the wear of those tires, I'd bet you'd get at least another full day out of the fronts. Lots of inside tread available! Benefit of turn-in is hard to gauge without seeing your driving style and the types of tracks you drive.

 

[MikeR397]

You are probably right, and agree the inside wear line is still quite noticeable and present. I'll just add this to the early spring to do list.

Is this generally what's recommended for camber plates? https://www.americanmuscle.com/mm-caster-camber-plates-2015.html?utm_content=Handling - Caster Camber Plates|Maximum Motorsports&T5_Var4=389059&utm_source=google-pla&utm_medium=shopping&T5_Var2=shopping&utm_campaign=AMM+Mustang+Vehicle+Medium&T5_Var3=blue&intl=0&dialogtech=ppc&gclid=Cj0KCQiAuf7fBRD7ARIsACqb8w60LWiHk4UcAe1s08weQuYPqOnNtBhdyWDY_ZWhsBDVK9PvcTXrP9EaAubkEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Do I need to have an alignment done after installation?

This is the video I was referencing for installation process:

 

[svttim]

My fronts both chunked half way through the fifth session, albiet one was 2/3 in the rain and the final was at Waterford hills which was the last day before they repaved it and it was Very rough with concrete apex’s is why I figured they chunked. However, as I swapped left to right they both chunked and chorded at the same time and 4 full aggressive track days (5 20 min sessions) seems all we can expect out of oem cup 2 is my thought.

As for turn in, I was just curious if it’s a big deal. I’m not timing myself and don’t know how much it will improve things. As it is, I’m generally too fast as is and constantly on peoples ass waiting for passing zones to the effect I really don’t like doing non full open passing events anymore.

Pics are front left and right. I’m just still on the fence if I want to deal with the pita to diy for $250 or probably cost $500+ for a dealer to install these bc im too lazy! The car is damn good stock!

I have done that in one day

 

[honeybadger]

You are probably right, and agree the inside wear line is still quite noticeable and present. I'll just add this to the early spring to do list.

Is this generally what's recommended for camber plates? https://www.americanmuscle.com/mm-caster-camber-plates-2015.html?utm_content=Handling - Caster Camber Plates|Maximum Motorsports&T5_Var4=389059&utm_source=google-pla&utm_medium=shopping&T5_Var2=shopping&utm_campaign=AMM+Mustang+Vehicle+Medium&T5_Var3=blue&intl=0&dialogtech=ppc&gclid=Cj0KCQiAuf7fBRD7ARIsACqb8w60LWiHk4UcAe1s08weQuYPqOnNtBhdyWDY_ZWhsBDVK9PvcTXrP9EaAubkEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Do I need to have an alignment done after installation?

This is the video I was referencing for installation process:

I would recommend Vorshlag personally. The MM plates BARELY reach the minimum recommendation from Ford. They're a well built part (I run them as well) and MM is a great company, but am a bit bummed I didn't by the Vorshlag since they can go up to -3.2-3.5. Better to plan for growth than only account for now

I have done that in one day

This guy tracks

 

[svttim]

I would recommend Vorshlag personally. The MM plates BARELY reach the minimum recommendation from Ford. They're a well built part (I run them as well) and MM is a great company, but am a bit bummed I didn't by the Vorshlag since they can go up to -3.2-3.5. Better to plan for growth than only account for now



This guy tracks

For many years including a little W2W competition. All in my race car mind you so, the R will be a bit new for me

 

[chedder]

Honey Badger has been on the track with me here in the Naw. He will confirm I drive relatively fast, 1.3 g turns normal. 125 mph in the rain. I have 9 full track days on my Cup 2's. 3/32" remaining after this season. 315/325's f/r. No plates or changes from recommended alignment. I've worked with Discount tire for 3 decades on putting the right tire on the car at the right pressure. We've found pressure is the biggest help to tire life. I've been an instructor fo 3o years and raced for 13 with great success. Learn to be smooth then you will have great lap times. Good luck with your car. PS, a harness is a must, a Hanss recommended.

 

[MikeR397]

Honey Badger has been on the track with me here in the Naw. He will confirm I drive relatively fast, 1.3 g turns normal. 125 mph in the rain. I have 9 full track days on my Cup 2's. 3/32" remaining after this season. 315/325's f/r. No plates or changes from recommended alignment. I've worked with Discount tire for 3 decades on putting the right tire on the car at the right pressure. We've found pressure is the biggest help to tire life. I've been an instructor fo 3o years and raced for 13 with great success. Learn to be smooth then you will have great lap times. Good luck with your car. PS, a harness is a must, a Hanss recommended.

I am confused. I measure my NEW 350 spec cup 2 tread at 3/32 in the deepest inside groove. Your results make zero sense to me. You can be gods butterfly at smoothness but no way do I believe 9 full sessions and near zero treadwear.

 

[svttim]

tire pressure adjusted for maximum wear does not always produce the fastest lap times

 

[honeybadger]

I am confused. I measure my NEW 350 spec cup 2 tread at 3/32 in the deepest inside groove. Your results make zero sense to me. You can be gods butterfly at smoothness but no way do I believe 9 full sessions and near zero treadwear.

Porsche spec tire. Starts with 7/32 tread depth.

I can vouch for Randy. Dude is an animal on track.

 

[chedder]

Thanks for the bafkup. Right pressure keans longer life, less replacment cost.

 

[honeybadger]

Thanks for the bafkup. Right pressure keans longer life, less replacment cost.

Are you running 34 on those?

 

[chedder]

Yes, 34 cold. I know its weird but it works for me.

 

[VoodooStang]

Ford Performance subframe bushings and diff bushings. Full Tilt Boogie adjustable camber arm and adjustable toe arm. Ford Performance adjustable sway arm and springs.

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