sk47
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 12, 2020
- Threads
- 28
- Messages
- 5,127
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- 2,441
- Location
- North Eastern TN
- First Name
- Jeff
- Vehicle(s)
- Chevy Silverado & Nissan Sentra SE
Hello; The hard plastic and bouncing make little difference. Put some ice water in a plastic glass, a metal glass or a glass glass on a humid day. All will condense on the outside. Plastic has a big advantage over metal fuel tanks in that the bottom of the tank will not rust. A friend parked his 911 Porsche too long with water in the tank. Bad surface rust.Hi Sk47,
Thank you for your input.
The cans were 5 liters each, (hard plastic?), and were stored in the trunk of the car. They were never still and they basically "bounced" around the trunk for 2.5 months.
I thought, if I ever want to increase the HP of the car I will need anyways something like the DW400 so I went for it.
The day I had to tow it: I went and tested the car 30 minutes and it run perfectly. Let it rest. Test 30 minutes more (fast, slow, you name it). Run perfectly.
Lastly took it home and failed 4 minutes after starting. Check engine light.
Today I went to it and it started like nothing. 0 sputtering, 0 gurgling. No engine light. Smooth as a baby.
I had a KD2006 ghost immobilizer the mechanic cut off because he said it was not giving the right power to the fuel pump. Could this lack of power fry it somehow? The thing is, sometimes it works, and when it does, it works great.
What are your thoughts on this?
MARIO
Bouncing will sort of keep the water mixed as long as the bouncing continues. Pour the gas inro the tank and let the car sit for an hour and the water will separate. You will have a layer of water at the bottom with gasoline on top. ( see specific gravity I think)
"Lastly took it home and failed 4 minutes after starting. Check engine light." Another unsupported WAG. The older carbs likely were more tolerant of passing water droplets than are modern FI systems. Each cylinder terminates in an injector with fine openings. Drops of water small enough the glide thru a carb might be too much for an injector to deal with. The injector will have high pressure behind it ( maybe 55 psi or more) and will eventually push the gob of water thru.
Do you have ethanol in your national fuel supply? If yes keep the tank full or no lower than 3/4's till spring ( warm weather). If no then consider an additive such as alcohol or other water remover in addition to keeping the tank as full as possible. Nice thing about my suggestion is it cost nothing extra even if the problem is not related.
I dislike immobilizers. I have no idea if yours can be the issue. Also no clear idea if low voltage to the fuel pump has damaged it. Electrical issues tend to eventually get worse. I gather you are early in the "throw parts" at a problem phase. Let me suggest another tack. Invest in some test equipment or pay for some specific tests. First among them being a fuel pressure test. If the high-pressure fuel injection rail has a proper test port a gauge can simply be attached. ( port should be a Schrader type valve) Test the pressure. If it holds the issue is much less likely the fuel pump.
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