To my understanding there's nothing special about the design, you just had corrosion or something was bent from overtightening.Resurrecting a zombie thread, but I just ran into this today when trying to replace the original battery. My battery clamps & terminals didn't even look very corroded, but we (me and the auto parts store guys where I bought the new battery) could not get the clamp to come off the negative battery post. We could get it loose enough to wiggle side-to-side, but could not get it to lift up. Tried prying it up with a screwdriver, working on it from both sides, etc. Ended up having to go to a Ford dealer just down the road and get them to do it. They said they needed to use some type of puller to get it free.
What should have been a 10 minute job wasted hours of my day. Isn't there some better design that could be used for these battery terminal clamps? I don't remember any of my older cars putting up such a fight, you could just easily unbolt the cables from the battery.
Grab an AGM battery while you're at it, much lower chance of any corrosion activity at the postsAlso consider using some terminal grease / corrosion preventative upon reassembly :
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From what I've read, the way the lead terminals are installed differs between AGM and Flooded, minimizing the chance of gas leakage on an AGM.Personally I think the problem is with the interface between the lead and the plastic, not the technology that sits inside the box ...
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Exactly what I'm going to do. I just have to get that positive terminal off still. I'm going to pick up some penetrating oil.
Terminal design is specific to the lid design, not to the technology that's inside the box i.e. one particular technology does not dictate the type of terminal that must be used (and that's not saying that all all manufactures use the same terminals on the same technology or that a 'good' design will be picked for AGM and a 'bad' one for flooded - or vice versa etc).From what I've read, the way the lead terminals are installed differs between AGM and Flooded, minimizing the chance of gas leakage on an AGM.
With that said, simply avoiding overtightening the terminal posts is a good practice, since that's how you crack the base where they sit into the plastic and cause issues in the first place haha




It's physically impossible to tighten the offset bolts to a point where it cracks the terminals at it's base with fords system. The only way is if you try to pry the terminals off from beneath.
They probably used a gear/pinion/bearing puller - it is a great tool and is found in different versions for different jobs - only $10-$20 depending on version. I've also used it for pulling off wiper arms, wheel studs.. oh and yeah - battery terminals that has corrosion on it or other nuts/bolts that has gotten stuck due to same issueThey said they needed to use some type of puller to get it free.

That should do it ........ < big grin >They probably used a gear/pinion/bearing puller - it is a great tool and is found in different versions for different jobs - only $10-$20 depending on version. I've also used it for pulling off wiper arms, wheel studs.. oh and yeah - battery terminals that has corrosion on it or other nuts/bolts that has gotten stuck due to same issue
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