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Buying used Ecoboost - Checklist

Musse

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Looking to buy 2015-2018 Mustang and figured out that Ecoboost would the most suitable engine for my needs. However, as with all the modern engines I'm bit concerned about the reliability and potential blow-out of the whole engine. So far I have learnt that Ecoboost has proven to be pretty decent modern turbo engine with some issues - that is fine for me because any car can cause problems with bad luck. But long story short: Are there things to specifically look at when buying used ecoboost?

- Are some year models / versions better than other? Are also first year models (2015) safe buy?
- Has 6 speed automatic have any known issues?
- Are there specific mileage thresholds to look at? For example need for large maintenance at some point etc?
- Anything else ecoboost related?
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O.L.

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Before buying a turbo equipped car, the first thing I'd check would be the engine compression cylinder by cylinder. Then if the turbo has any leaks. But any good mechanic should be able to do a good check up before buying it.
 

5.0yote

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On these motors make sure you check the service history, you are looking for things like block oil leaks, etc. They are prone to leaking oil by the front timing cover near the boost solenoid. As stated above make sure compression is checked, check the plugs for heat wear. The 6R80 trans are fairly reliable not a lot of issues with those. I would stay away from the 15s in general. First year growing pains. Go 16+ As far as other items to look for. Check the hood for bubbles under the paint near the front leading edge of the hood on 16s and up. (I would say 15s but ford will not fix those for free). They are prone to corrosion due to faulty prep issues with the aluminum hoods and iron deposits, its an issue Ford has had since like 2010. Check normal stuff based on mileage, tire wear, paint condition, hood, doors, and trunk operation, wear on interior. IF under 60K again check service documentation and do not be too concerned if you find something like a knocking from a control arm or other suspension part if its still under warranty. 5 years 60K. If you can find one under 36,000 miles even better bumper to bumper should still be in affect (Depending on if its transferrable) but still the standard 60K warranty should still apply.

Look for odd rattles in the interior while driving on the highway like drivers door, and dash. They are known to start creeking as soon as 3k miles. IF you buy one and you have over 30k miles do a fuel system cleaning. These cars respond fairly well to these, but they do not like shitty gas and that is why I mention doing a fuel injection service if it is over 30K. You do not know what type of gas was being used or if it was consistently purchased as specific stations. If you are told a car has high highway miles you can tell if this is try by the interior wear, it should be minimal, especially the steering wheel, if the wheel, cup holders, and seats look really worn, regardless of miles but the car is only a year to two years old, its not highway miles.

#1 base rule(s), you have to test drive the car yourself, do not buy sight unseen (auction) and do not check the car out during rain or at night, make sure its a dry day vehicle check. IF you are not allowed to drive the car, walk away. If you know a good mechanic who will do a vehicle inspection for you like I do, use them...
 
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Musse

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Hey, thanks for good answers and especially to 5.0yote! Guess it would not be bad if there would be a sticky thread somewhere with message(s) like this for newcomers.
 

Cobra Jet

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If you’re buying used and from a Ford Dealer, ask your Salesperson for the OASIS report. That report will show the vehicle’s repair history (both warranty and out of warranty) IF the vehcile was serviced at any Ford Dealership in the US.

Do NOT rely on any “CarFax” type of report, they are NOT always 100% accurate at all.

Miles:
That is a personal preference when buying used. Some folks will stay under 50k, others miles don’t matter as long as the car is clean and has some type of paperwork history showing it was maintained. Sure there’s not always paperwork, but there can be 2 of the same vehicles side by side and one has 30k on it and the other has 50k on it and the 50k car actually looks 3x better than the 30k car, because it was maintained better... so don’t always overlook a vehicle just because of accrued miles.

EB reliability:
My prior 2016 EB Premium w/PP was bought back by Ford - HOWEVER, it was not due to engine reliability, it was due to driveline issues and some other warranty factors. I bought the car new and when it was bought back, it had over 36k on it; that engine pulled hard and never had ANY issues at all. No leaks, no nothing.

The 6R80 is very stout and can take nearly any type of abuse thrown at it. Again with my prior 2016, the 6R80 never had any issues at al, it shifted great and drove great - in both auto and other trans modes.

——

Compare pricing for the 2015-2018 EB’s and when doing so, make sure you’re comparing like vehicles (total options and features) to get an idea of how much car you can get for the money (and obviously what can be afforded - don’t go car broke). You would be surprised to find there is great fluctuation in S550 EB pricing across the model years and platforms offered. I’ve seen some later models priced as low as a prior year model - so again, research pricing before getting emotionally attached and laying down money.

Good site to compare street and dealer pricing is www.cargurus.com. You can do a Nationwide search and really see where prices fall (both fair and astronomical).

The EB engine had 2 known oil “leaks” in the 2015-2016 years (more or less seepage, not a “puddle” leak):
1) Front timing cover bolt on left side of timing cover. This was remedied by pulling out the bolt, applying sealant to end of bolt and reinstalling.
2) Oil pressure sensor above or near the oil filter. Many were reported to be lose, so obvious remedy is just to tighten.

Some reported that early 2015 EB’s were ventilating blocks, but if you go back and review those posts on here, many of those engines popped due to various aftermarket tunes. Some blamed early build locations, but no one could really confirm that was a link, because there’s guys with early 2015 EB’s that never had ANY issues at all.

Options and features between 2015-2017 were basically the same. The only main differences I can recall were:
1) Exterior color options
2) Apple Car Play was NOT available for 2015-2016, BUT it can be retrofitted with purchase of the proper USB part and there’s a thread in the audio forum that outlines the entire process.
3) 2015 had the 3.5mm aux jack in center console; in 2016 Ford deleted the 3.5mm jack

This site has a tremendous wealth of info, so feel free to ask questions about the EB, lots of helpful folks on here.
 

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Musse

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Thanks man - Very useful info.
 

Redcruzer

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The Guys above covered it very well. I would just add that I would stay away from a car that has been modded. This is a personal decision based on things I’ve seen and read on Facebook. Not so much with what the folks here have done with their cars. Because the EB is the lower priced entry into the S550 world, lots of kids feeling their way seem to do some dumb stuff.
 

ApplesAndOranges

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One of the most important things to look for during your test drive is a sustained vibration in the seat, gas pedal, and/or steering wheel between 50 and 75mph. Improperly balanced drive shafts (among other causes) are a huge issue with the 15-17s.

Also check the panel gap where the rear bumper aligns with the body just forward of the tail lights. Very common issue.

When I inspected my car, I missed a key item. The windshield must have been replaced with an aftermarket unit which resulted in a lot of cabin wind noise and whistle. I thought I could find the air leak, so I bought it. It turns out the factory windshield is an acoustic unit made by carlite. HUGE improvement over the aftermarket unit. Check the drivers side lower windshield for "Carlite" and "Soundscreen."
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