Built motor question

[robmustang201528]

Im getting close to building the motor. I was on a engine builders website and one of the options were to get the block CNC o ring and tap and delete pistions oilers. Why would I delete the pistions oilers? I thought the pistions oilers kept the pistions cool? What is CNC o ring? What are the benefits? I plan on making 1000hp at the wheel. Im currently using the vortech v7jt blower. Thanks for your help

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[SolarFlare]

When the motor is built and pistons are strong it’s more important to keep the bearings oiled.

 

[Jackson1320]

Solarflare is correct. Also most pistons will not work with the Oilers you will most likely have to remove them.
CNC o-ringing is mostly for engines well over your 1000whp goals. It is a lot stronger and reliable way to seal the heads
Tap means to prep the block to use the 12mm head bolts/studs if the block Is not already setup for them rather than the 11mm like on gen2.

 

[Sean709]

Im getting close to building the motor. I was on a engine builders website and one of the options were to get the block CNC o ring and tap and delete pistions oilers. Why would I delete the pistions oilers? I thought the pistions oilers kept the pistions cool? What is CNC o ring? What are the benefits? I plan on making 1000hp at the wheel. Im currently using the vortech v7jt blower. Thanks for your help

A o ringed block would be a small groove around each bore where a steel wire type ring would be placed that sits up slightly above the deck so when the head is bolted down it puts a little more seal around the bore and less chance of blowing out a head gasket. Sometimes the heads are o ringed instead of block also but it is basically doing the same thing. I had it done on my 598 bbc that was making over 1600hp on 2 nitrous kits.. I do not know the level of boost where you would need it on these motors. I would ask some builders who build motors for twin turbos at what level it is needed.

 

[Angrey]

I think the problem originates from clearance issues with full forged/skirted aftermarket pistons, the squirters (at least in OEM locations) are not in an optimal location for the new piston architecture of the aftermarket forged.

Having said that, I think builders generally remove them because:

1) If you're building a motor for high horsepower, you don't generally need them for short runs.
2) If you're doing some sort of endurance or extended motorsport stuff, you generally aren't building a crazy high hp application.
3) Squirters that are removed have to be blocked otherwise you see a drop in oil pressure to the other orifices delivering the oil (namely the bearings which need it most).

Basically, if you're building a motor for drag or street racing, you don't need them and they're a conflict with aftermarket pistons anyway.

 

[robmustang201528]

When the motor is built and pistons are strong it’s more important to keep the bearings oiled.

So should I keep the

I think the problem originates from clearance issues with full forged/skirted aftermarket pistons, the squirters (at least in OEM locations) are not in an optimal location for the new piston architecture of the aftermarket forged.

Having said that, I think builders generally remove them because:

1) If you're building a motor for high horsepower, you don't generally need them for short runs.
2) If you're doing some sort of endurance or extended motorsport stuff, you generally aren't building a crazy high hp application.
3) Squirters that are removed have to be blocked otherwise you see a drop in oil pressure to the other orifices delivering the oil (namely the bearings which need it most).

Basically, if you're building a motor for drag or street racing, you don't need them and they're a conflict with aftermarket pistons anyway.

What about for high mph rolls? I like to do 40 to 160 rolls?

 

[Angrey]

So should I keep the

What about for high mph rolls? I like to do 40 to 160 rolls?

The forged piston composition means they don't need as much cooling and therefore for short durations, your piston and cylinder head temps aren't going to be as affected as if you removed the squirters from the OEM setup.

Basically, for street and strip, it's the best calculus to remove and block them. If you're doing sustained road racing or baja or stuff where the rpms are going to remain high for long periods of time, then generally they're more necessary, but then again, you're probably not doing that with a 1000rwhp motor either.

 

[Jackson1320]

So should I keep the

What about for high mph rolls? I like to do 40 to 160 rolls?

You do not want piston oilers on forged pistons.

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