Budget 2018 twin turbo GT build--Under $5k including fuel upgrades

[gimmie11s]

Yea u need some sidwall,i have 305/45/17 street ss and im knocking down 1.40 60ft with them on a 3800 hundred stall.Street r is a really good tire too but not good to daily drive on.I think a good tire will help u alot,no sence in putting a convertor in yet with those tires on.

Yep next step is 17s with some ET Street R's along with a 2 step.

1.8 60's aint gonna cut it lol.

Man I was just about ready to pull the trigger in an LPF kit today. Didn’t realize anyone else was making anything for these. I do most of my own fab work but was trying to be lazy. This might be a viable option are
You happy with fitment? I would almost want to try the comp turbos oil-less ones and not have to deal with the feed and drains

Fitament is great other than what i had to fix. Headers fit good, down pipes fit good. I had to re work the wastegate mounts as seen in the thread.

Those Comp turbos are Niiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiice. They would definitely make things easier but at ~$1600/each, i can rework my oiling system a hundred times and still save some cash lol. Nothing against them... they are great turbos. The turbos im using cost ~$500 each and they are dual ceramic BB billet wheel units. Surely not as nice as the Comps, but at this point they've given me no reason to complain. I'll be the first to tell you if they take a shit next week though LOL.

FWIW, my oiling system is working absolutely perfectly. No leaks, no oil back up issues, no smoking at all whatsoever. The secret is check valves on the exit of the pump and a check valve on the inlet of the turbos so once the car shuts off, oil cannot leak backwards into the turbo drains. Im truly proud with how well the oiling system is performing.

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[ColeTrickle]

Was able to get 2 somewhat clean runs in... ran 139 both times.

These were on 8 psi. I tried to turn the car up but the track just wouldn’t hold it and I blew the tires off and almost hit the wall LOL. Not good!

Guess i need to buy some 17s for the rear and a 2 Step so I can focus on getting out of the hole quicker. This could have been a 9 sec pass with a good 60 foot.

Small world....

Cool build nice meeting/racing you last night. I thought I had you in my G8 until you went around me right before 3/4 track.

That car moves out!!!

If you have the video of our run post it up

Brandin

 

[kcc0521]

How bad was it to route the trans lines on the drivers side? Was anything in the way? Did you have to make any tight bends? I am thinking about doing that on mine and I have PTFE line which does not bend much.

 

[gimmie11s]

Small world....

Cool build nice meeting/racing you last night. I thought I had you in my G8 until you went around me right before 3/4 track.

That car moves out!!!

If you have the video of our run post it up

Brandin

What's going on man!?! Im sure i have some footage of that pass. Let me dig some.

How bad was it to route the trans lines on the drivers side? Was anything in the way? Did you have to make any tight bends? I am thinking about doing that on mine and I have PTFE line which does not bend much.

Only "hard" part is removing the trans cooler, which isnt really that bad. The routing is very easy.. no tight bends at all; all slow, sweeping bends and nothing in the way. Very smooth sailing once you move them to the driver's side.

 

[kcc0521]

What's going on man!?! Im sure i have some footage of that pass. Let me dig some.




Only "hard" part is removing the trans cooler, which isnt really that bad. The routing is very easy.. no tight bends at all; all slow, sweeping bends and nothing in the way. Very smooth sailing once you move them to the driver's side.

Did you use compression fittings on the barbed trans cooler lines? I would have thought those might leak but I have never tried it.

 

[gimmie11s]

Did you use compression fittings on the barbed trans cooler lines? I would have thought those might leak but I have never tried it.

Great question and i have to go through my phone to see if have some pics but yes... The aluminum lines coming out of the cooler arent really barbed.. more like ribbed. There is one true barb at the bottom of each fitting to hold the hose on so i simply shaved that down allowing the compression fitting to slide over it and up onto the ribbed fitting. The ribs are wide and flat, not sharp or circular/rounded, so once it tightened down they dont leak.

 

[kcc0521]

Thanks for the advice. Are you going to try the HP Tuners transbrake on the car?

 

[gimmie11s]

Thanks for the advice. Are you going to try the HP Tuners transbrake on the car?

I think i'll start with the MSD 2 step and some 17" rubber out back first. I really want to get my 60' times into the 1.5 range but trans brake is going to be a last resort for me.

 

[kcc0521]

I am curious how mine will run without the brake as well. I want to wait till I build my trans before I go with that. I have a two step and 245 3 C converter for now.

 

[Ponderthis]

Go ahead and buy some bead lock wheels when you go 17s... These heavy ass cars need them! Forgestar D5

 

[kcc0521]

Go ahead and buy some bead lock wheels when you go 17s... These heavy ass cars need them! Forgestar D5

I agree. My car spins the tires on the wheels and I think it throws them out of balance.

 

[5ohh_kenny]

First off all great job OP! This gives me inspiration to do this myself. I do have a few questions.

• Will the turbo kit be a direct fit to a 6R80 car? Know you had to modify some to fit 10R80. Not sure if there was a size increase with the new auto.
• If you were to do this again. What, if anything, would you do different?
• How was the craftsmanship on this kit? I saw on other forums where CX stuff was inconsistent/wouldn’t seal to the heads due to flange warpage.
• Finally, how is the ground clearance? I wouldn’t want to be scraping piping on everywhere

 

[Rjames18]

Sounds like you need someome to put the radials on without putting anything on the bead. My radials never slip on the tires even pulling 1.3's

 

[gimmie11s]

First off all great job OP! This gives me inspiration to do this myself. I do have a few questions.

• Will the turbo kit be a direct fit to a 6R80 car? Know you had to modify some to fit 10R80. Not sure if there was a size increase with the new auto.
• If you were to do this again. What, if anything, would you do different?
• How was the craftsmanship on this kit? I saw on other forums where CX stuff was inconsistent/wouldn’t seal to the heads due to flange warpage.
• Finally, how is the ground clearance? I wouldn’t want to be scraping piping on everywhere

6r80 car will require similar mods as mine. The kit was designed around an MT82 car. Direct bolt on for MT82 cars, but not autos unfortunately. I have 0 exhaust leaks. The on3 kit on my 2014 Mustang had exhaust leaks for days that were a PITA to correct. I have found the CXR craftsmanship to be fine and acceptable. It is not show worthy like a FatFab or Armageddon kit, obviously.

Ground clearance is better than a Hellion top mount. There are no low-hanging pipes. Go through the thread.. i believe i have some pics of the low points.

Sounds like you need someome to put the radials on without putting anything on the bead. My radials never slip on the tires even pulling 1.3's

+1.

You could also use the hairspray trick on the beads.... Ive had good luck with that in the past.

 

[gimmie11s]

Dumped the factory cat back and installed a custom 3” dual turbo-back exhaust.


I bought the mufflers from amazon for $33 each. They are Magnaflow copies (maybe they’re rebranded MF’s?) and appear to be made very well.


The rest of it is a combo of 3” stainless mandrel bends from Summit.


I got it all measured, cut up, welded and installed.


Pain in the ass to make 2 sides line up perfectly and look somewhat symmetrical!


Glad it’s done though and will free up a couple psi boost and probably 40+ more horsepower.


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