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Brake light switch stop

erne75

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Tonight when I got home my brake lights stayed on after switching my 15 GT PP off. WTF??? I immediately suspected the brake light switch but using a screw driver and depressing the rod it would switch the lights off. The switch is fine. I then noticed some plastic debris of what looks like a broken plastic circular pad that seemed to fit on a small hole in the brake pedal. The hole is aligned with where the switch rod should bump against. By not having the pad there anymore the rod goes through the hole and doesnt retract. Looking at the pieces of the broken pad it looks like the brittlest, crappiest, plastic that even the Chinese would be ashamed of...My 15 is not even 25k miles and it already failed. Way to go Ford!
Does anyone know what the part# for that piece of shit is?
I ghetto fixed it by using a zip tie through that hole and restored proper function to the brake lights but I dont want to drive like that for extended period of times...
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andrewgilmore702

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Granted without knowing your VIN this is what I can find.

If you are looking for a new switch then the part number is GL3Z-13480-A
If you need a new brake assembly then you have to get the clutch and brake assembly as one unit and that part number is JR3Z-2455-A
 

VoodooBear

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Tonight when I got home my brake lights stayed on after switching my 15 GT PP off. WTF???
This exact same thing happened to me today. Tried disconnecting the battery, leaving it off for a while and reconnecting. Same issue. Were you able to find a fix?
 

TSTUDROX

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deep impact blue mustang gt with automatic transmission
Tonight when I got home my brake lights stayed on after switching my 15 GT PP off. WTF??? I immediately suspected the brake light switch but using a screw driver and depressing the rod it would switch the lights off. The switch is fine. I then noticed some plastic debris of what looks like a broken plastic circular pad that seemed to fit on a small hole in the brake pedal. The hole is aligned with where the switch rod should bump against. By not having the pad there anymore the rod goes through the hole and doesnt retract. Looking at the pieces of the broken pad it looks like the brittlest, crappiest, plastic that even the Chinese would be ashamed of...My 15 is not even 25k miles and it already failed. Way to go Ford!
Does anyone know what the part# for that piece of shit is?
I ghetto fixed it by using a zip tie through that hole and restored proper function to the brake lights but I dont want to drive like that for extended period of times...
***I just wanted to thank you for posting this as the same damn thing just happened to my damn brake lights & I was about to really give up on putting something in that little hole in the top of the brake pedal’s arm where my “piece”-“of”-“shit”-“ford”-“plastic” “stopper“ also “crumbled -“out”-“of” & “all”-“over” my diver’s side floor & mat after which I saw & took your advice on here & threaded a little 1/8” wide by about 7” long pull or zip-tie through that little hole in the brake arm where that stopper went before & where the brake light switch’s retractable rod is supposed to run into that stopper “earlier” than if that stopper wasn’t there you know that goes into that hole so that a connection is made “earlier” in order to turn off the brake lights when no pressure is being applied to the brake pedal!!!*** And I got that tie pulled through that little hole & tightened just right thank god to where the head of the tie where you thread the sharpened end through tightly rests on the area right by the hole it is in & on the side of the hole where the retractable brake light switch’s actuator push rod can push against the head of that tie which is not going anywhere as I tightly put it in there to where the brake lights go off as they’re supposed to when there is no pressure applied to the brake pedal!!! The really messed-up part of all this is that I think you would have to buy a whole damn brake arm from ford just to get that piece-of-shit little spacer/bushing/stopper that goes into the little hole in the top of the brake arm itself which is “A””BUNCH””OF””REAL””BULLSHIT” to the tune of about $300 I think which again is “BULLSHIT“ ford not to mention take the brake arm off & replacing it with a new one etcetcetc which would be even more if a nightmare godgodgod!!! So thanks again all you people at ford!!! Going to back to my Mercedes-Benz dream now now people when I get rich by winning the damn texas lottery!!!
 

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TSTUDROX

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***I just wanted to thank you for posting this as the same damn thing just happened to my damn brake lights & I was about to really give up on putting something in that little hole in the top of the brake pedal’s arm where my “piece”-“of”-“shit”-“ford”-“plastic” “stopper“ also “crumbled -“out”-“of” & “all”-“over” my diver’s side floor & mat after which I saw & took your advice on here & threaded a little 1/8” wide by about 7” long pull or zip-tie through that little hole in the brake arm where that stopper went before & where the brake light switch’s retractable rod is supposed to run into that stopper “earlier” than if that stopper wasn’t there you know that goes into that hole so that a connection is made “earlier” in order to turn off the brake lights when no pressure is being applied to the brake pedal!!!*** And I got that tie pulled through that little hole & tightened just right thank god to where the head of the tie where you thread the sharpened end through tightly rests on the area right by the hole it is in & on the side of the hole where the retractable brake light switch’s actuator push rod can push against the head of that tie which is not going anywhere as I tightly put it in there to where the brake lights go off as they’re supposed to when there is no pressure applied to the brake pedal!!! The really messed-up part of all this is that I think you would have to buy a whole damn brake arm from ford just to get that piece-of-shit little spacer/bushing/stopper that goes into the little hole in the top of the brake arm itself which is “A””BUNCH””OF””REAL””BULLSHIT” to the tune of about $300 I think which again is “BULLSHIT“ ford not to mention take the brake arm off & replacing it with a new one etcetcetc which would be even more if a nightmare godgodgod!!! So thanks again all you people at ford!!! Going to back to my Mercedes-Benz dream now now people when I get rich by winning the damn texas lottery!!!
***(They also sell some Dorman stoppers which I haven’t checked out yet at autozone for about $7 which is way better than ford’s damn solution especially at one of their damn dealerships service areas & or parts departments)!!!***
 

Elp_jc

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I bought the Toyota ones off Amazon, and they're a perfect fit. I replaced ALL THREE of them, even though the one on top of the clutch (for the original cruise switch) doesn't have a switch anymore, so it's basically a spare. The third is at the bottom of the clutch travel, so be able to start the engine. I bought 4, to have an extra spare in my tool box. Changed them last week, with less than 1K miles on the odometer, as a preventative measure.
 

SiMuL

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This just happened to my 15 GT PP tonight. I thought my throttle body was failing. Throttle would only work for a few seconds, then drop off like I let off the pedal. I had to modulate the throttle the whole way home, which wouldn't have been that bad if I wasn't two frickin hours away...

I bought the Toyota ones off Amazon, and they're a perfect fit. I replaced ALL THREE of them, even though the one on top of the clutch (for the original cruise switch) doesn't have a switch anymore, so it's basically a spare. The third is at the bottom of the clutch travel, so be able to start the engine. I bought 4, to have an extra spare in my tool box. Changed them last week, with less than 1K miles on the odometer, as a preventative measure.
Do you have a link to these? Thank you!
 

Elp_jc

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Leaving right now for a mountain trip. Will look up where I bought them when I come back.
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