BMR Tech Tip: Check those axle-to-spindle retaining nuts!

Seanay

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It could be 1 of 3 things or combo of the 3.
1) just axle nut, replace with a new design or tighten it back down and call it a day.
2) it is the thrust/friction washer that comes loose and is clanking around. Remive and done or replace. I left mine off.
3) wheel bearing.
Or combo. On both of mine, both axle buts were really loose and i bought the new design 1 piece nuts and tightened back down and removed the washer. Neither side had a wheel hub problem. I have a 16 gt. Just annoying but simple to fix...i did not torque to some crazy 150 lbs , went with ford recommended 100 plus quarter turn and seems fine after 2k miles.





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Seanay

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Yea if uts still under warranty, tell then you have a problem with the wheel hub area hopefully they will cover it
 

ANGST

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My drivers side hub was loose , they went ahead and replaced both under warranty
 

Seanay

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Is the warranty 3 year or 50k miles? Cant remember why I couldn't use warranty since its not a power train issue
 

ANGST

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Is the warranty 3 year or 50k miles? Cant remember why I couldn't use warranty since its not a power train issue


Rear bearings are power train , fronts are not
 

V8_MOTOR

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I think I'm getting the same noise as everyone else. Mine is an Auto and the noise doesn't happen when I start driving. Something happens on the drive whether it's acceleration or deceleration etc and then this clunk starts to happen.

When parked. Happens when going from D to R and or R to D. Never if you go R to N to R or D to N to D

The noise also happens when coming to a stop at around 5mph. Definitely feels like it's coming from the left rear and in the cabin you can feel the clunk.

Tried checking the spindle nuts today. They were okay at 100ft/lbs but need a 31mm 6 sided deep socket so have ordered that 32 normal isn't deep enough and a bit too loose.

I have a DSS carbon driveshaft and DSS 800hp Halfshafts about to go on the car soon. All bushings seem good too.

Im pretty sure it's not driveline slack because it's never there when the car has been parked for a few hours and i set off. Usually comes after a fair few mins of driving.
 

catchthecarp

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I just had the drivers side rear wheel hub assembly replaced and now I have an intermittent chirp when I take off from a stop and from 1st to 2nd gear shifts. I hear the chirp in reverse, too.

I checked the spindle nut, it definitely was not loose and torqued to spec. I know the shop that replaced the hub assembly re-used the old spindle nut. Should I get a new one?

Do 2017's have a thrust washer or is this part only used on 15 - 16 model years?
 

Nate_V8

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Well I'm booked for next week. I told them the problem (rear squeaking going over speed bumps, or large bumps and clicking sometimes when I reverse) I asked if it would be covered under warranty and he said that my bumper to bumper was over in august. I told him but rear axle is covered under power train warranty and he kind of laughed and said ok we will do a diagnostic and if it's rear axle related I won't be charged but I will be if it is.

I really hope it is the axle nuts/washer/wheel bearing so it's covered
 

Seanay

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I just had the drivers side rear wheel hub assembly replaced and now I have an intermittent chirp when I take off from a stop and from 1st to 2nd gear shifts. I hear the chirp in reverse, too.

I checked the spindle nut, it definitely was not loose and torqued to spec. I know the shop that replaced the hub assembly re-used the old spindle nut. Should I get a new one?

Do 2017's have a thrust washer or is this part only used on 15 - 16 model years?
I wonder the same thing myself. Have a 16 and just did the passenger side last Saturday. My driver side went about a year ago. Both times it was absolutely the thrust/friction washer coming loose because the axle nut some how loosened themselves enough to let the washers slowly but surely get enough separation to clank around on acceleration. When i took them off, it was starting to get coated with the plastic/rubber frim the back of the wheel hub where it should sit flush but obviously it wasn't and was starting to eat in to the black rubbwry material pretty good. Took it out and didn't bother replacing it. No issues with the aide i did last year so far.
 

Nate_V8

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Rear bearings are power train , fronts are not
So just dropped my car off and they really seem on the side of it's probably not going to axle related and therefore not covered. (I have the squeaking over bumps, clicking as I reverse).

WhatI was wondering is what do I do if they try to blame my aftermarket rims or oversized tires (325s)? I know it's not out of the realm of possibility. I really hope it's the axle nut/washer/wheel bearing lol
 

Nate_V8

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They checked twice and couldn't find anything. What a waste of money
 

Sleipner

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Mine is again in the shop for checking the noise. Last thing they replaced was the pumpkin but still no success.
They keep saying it doesn't sound as a bearing issue, although if it's the washer and or/nut that's not OK, it might explain why it returns after a week of silence after each job on the car. Can't say they release the shafts though each time but.....

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/rear-clunk-video.138841/
 

MataGT350

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Here's what I did do solve this problem on my 2017 GT350. I started getting a clunking noise from the rear driver side suspension when I would accelerate from a stop. I could also hear the clunk when backing out of my garage. At first, I thought maybe I didn't torque everything properly after installing the FP springs and clocking the bearings, or didn't seat the springs properly, but I rechecked everything and all was torqued correctly and the springs were seated properly. The next thing I did was remount the wheel to check for any play. To my surprise, there was some play compared to the passenger side rear. It turns out my hub retainer had backed out a little, but the hub bearing was fine along with the CV joint and half shaft. I installed a brand new nut, P/N CCPZ-3B477-G, and torqued it to 98 ft-lbf plus 45 degrees as seems to be widely used even though it doesn't align with the ford service manual. The clunk disappeared completely, but I noticed I started getting a clicking noise when I let off the clutch to start moving forward. The again another click when shifting to 2 gear...so two audible clicks in total (the sound of something overtightened). This bugged the crap of me, so I took the hub retainer off and installed another new nut, but this time at Stage 1: 85 ft-lbf, and Stage 2: 30 degrees (per Ford Service manual). My suspension has not made another sound since. Hopefully this helps somebody.
 
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