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PewterCam

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Its not the the DP causing the problem its the PCV so it will have the problem regardless of the DP. Even a Catted DP will still be smoking but the cat is burning it up and leaving a ton of Carbon buildup that you will notice on the tips and valence.

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36745
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Ecosmokey

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I found TSB 15-0192 on another thread. Looks like ford has a fix for smoking issue. I have attached a copy.
 

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therealdannye

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Guys, besides taking the car into a dealer with that Service Bulletin, the only known fix is to gut the PCV... and we now have a thorough walkthrough on how to do that thanks to Adam:

http://mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41744

Get a catch can and gut it. Protect your investment.
 

TheLion

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Guys, besides taking the car into a dealer with that Service Bulletin, the only known fix is to gut the PCV... and we now have a thorough walkthrough on how to do that thanks to Adam:

http://mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41744

Get a catch can and gut it. Protect your investment.
The catch / PCV delete "works" because both reducing oil going into the intake and removing another restriction (PCV valve), thus helping alleviate pressure. However this doesn't resolve the root cause of issue, which is a restrictive factory Oil separator.

Yes, the EB engine does already have an oil separator as do all the EB engines to my knowledge. However they are not as effective as the catch cans as they are designed to be maintenance free and are also of polymer construction (poor thermal conductivity). You can separate oil via filter media or by temperature change (causing conensation). The factor unit does not appear to have any filter media, yet it's polymer which works against the effectiveness of condensation method, so it may be a "just good enough" method, implying it makes a substantial reduction, but not 100%.

Here's a link showing the actual unit referenced in the TSB (ignore the site PN, the part used in their photo has the actual PN referenced in the TSB as the HIGH FLOW unit): http://www.tascaparts.com/oe-ford/fr3z6a785c

Applying the Ford fix is the best single solution and is free of charge as it's a warranty repair. Even if for some reason you couldn't get it as a warranty repair, its $15...not exactly a wallet breaker. The TSB states the approximate time to replace is only 1.1 hours. Why not correct the root cause first then install a catch can to increase the efficiency of oil particulate separation even further? The dual separator system (the on-board OEM separator combined with the catch can) would not only mean longer intervals before draining the can, but also the absolute least amount of particulates entering your intake tract and more importantly, truly lower pressures in the crank, thus eliminating the excessive turbo bearing seal pressure.

That means the best possible long term performance for your car and the least amount of maintenance / potential problems related to carbon buildup on the intake valves and injectors from oil. Not only that is but the PCV valve delete only method may not stop excessive oil pressure from being exerted on the turbo bearing seals, it may just reduce it enough that only a small enough amount of oil is leaking through that you can't detect it. Thus your turbo bearing seals will inherently have a shorter life and your oil consumption will always be unusually high (again, may not be enough for your to detect it, but may lead to premature failure).

Please don't take this as me pretending to be a "know it all", but I'm a degreed Engineer myself, so I tend to look at things from that perspective and with a high level of thoroughness. I like to solve problems with all due diligence ;-). I think in this case I have a good handle on what the Ford engineers accomplished and we would be wise to capitalize on it and then combine it with other engineering solutions that further increase the efficiency of the factory system once corrected.
 

TEXAS HEAT

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The catch / PCV delete "works" because both reducing oil going into the intake and removing another restriction (PCV valve), thus helping alleviate pressure. However this doesn't resolve the root cause of issue, which is a restrictive factory Oil separator.

Yes, the EB engine does already have an oil separator as do all the EB engines to my knowledge. However they are not as effective as the catch cans as they are designed to be maintenance free and are also of polymer construction (poor thermal conductivity). You can separate oil via filter media or by temperature change (causing conensation). The factor unit does not appear to have any filter media, yet it's polymer which works against the effectiveness of condensation method, so it may be a "just good enough" method, implying it makes a substantial reduction, but not 100%.

Here's a link showing the actual unit referenced in the TSB (ignore the site PN, the part used in their photo has the actual PN referenced in the TSB as the HIGH FLOW unit): http://www.tascaparts.com/oe-ford/fr3z6a785c

Applying the Ford fix is the best single solution and is free of charge as it's a warranty repair. Even if for some reason you couldn't get it as a warranty repair, its $15...not exactly a wallet breaker. The TSB states the approximate time to replace is only 1.1 hours. Why not correct the root cause first then install a catch can to increase the efficiency of oil particulate separation even further? The dual separator system (the on-board OEM separator combined with the catch can) would not only mean longer intervals before draining the can, but also the absolute least amount of particulates entering your intake tract and more importantly, truly lower pressures in the crank, thus eliminating the excessive turbo bearing seal pressure.

That means the best possible long term performance for your car and the least amount of maintenance / potential problems related to carbon buildup on the intake valves and injectors from oil. Not only that is but the PCV valve delete only method may not stop excessive oil pressure from being exerted on the turbo bearing seals, it may just reduce it enough that only a small enough amount of oil is leaking through that you can't detect it. Thus your turbo bearing seals will inherently have a shorter life and your oil consumption will always be unusually high (again, may not be enough for your to detect it, but may lead to premature failure).

Please don't take this as me pretending to be a "know it all", but I'm a degreed Engineer myself, so I tend to look at things from that perspective and with a high level of thoroughness. I like to solve problems with all due diligence ;-). I think in this case I have a good handle on what the Ford engineers accomplished and we would be wise to capitalize on it and then combine it with other engineering solutions that further increase the efficiency of the factory system once corrected.
I just had the "new" oil separator installed on my car by Ford as part of the TSB, although my car did not have any symptoms. I just had them do it for the PM aspect. The TSB also includes a re-flash of the factory PCM. It appears that they raised idle RPM somewhat, but I'm not 100% on that.
 

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shelbywannabe

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I just had the "new" oil separator installed on my car by Ford as part of the TSB, although my car did not have any symptoms. I just had them do it for the PM aspect. The TSB also includes a re-flash of the factory PCM. It appears that they raised idle RPM somewhat, but I'm not 100% on that.
They put an oil separator om your car ? Can you post a pic please ?
 

TheLion

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They put an oil separator om your car ? Can you post a pic please ?
It's in all of them and has been since the EB engines were first designed, see the link above I psoted. It a plastic injection molded housing with multiple chambers which attempts to separate the oil vapor from the air to prevent it from collecting in the IC / Intake manifold.

How effective it is I don't know, but a catch can is a good secondary stage to pretty much eliminate the possiblity of oil getting into your intake via whatever gets pas the OEM separator. I'd hazard a guess that the OEM separator is decent, but not perfect, hence why the catch can is still a good idea, but I could be wrong as I have no evidence of this unlike the IC issue, which is documented.

I do know those who have the original separator design (more resitrictive) and did a PCV valve delete saw notable oil in their catch cans, but that's with the PCV valve gone, so I'm not sure how much impact that has on the OEM separator design.

Once I get my catch can and levels IC, I'll run it for at least a few thousand miles we'll see how much is getting past the integrated separator that the car comes with, if any (hopefully I didn't waste $170 on the UPR unit lol). I have a May 2016 build, so very recent, I'd imagine mine has the high flow separator. Early 2016 builds may not have had them (Jan, possibly Feb) before the design change was released into production.
 

shelbywannabe

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I just added a catch can yesterday too. I had no idea that the engine had some form of can on it already so I thought they had actually added a separate one !
 

TEXAS HEAT

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They put an oil separator om your car ? Can you post a pic please ?
The factory oil separator is part of the PCV system which is a plastic housing that mounts to the side of your engine block. The TSB or upgraded oil separator is a direct replacement canister that is supposed to improve airflow through the system at idle, which aides in preventing pressure equalization on the turbo (seals). This has been identified as one of the contributing factors of oil getting into your exhaust system and causing blue smoke to exit the rear mufflers. The TSB is Fords attempt to resolve this issue.
 

shelbywannabe

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I just had that update done last week and then added my own catch can last night.
 

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geokots

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I did the catch-can, gutted PCV fix last summer. If I go for the TCB repair, can/should I keep the PCV the way it is or should I replace it with a non-gutted one?
 

TEXAS HEAT

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I did the catch-can, gutted PCV fix last summer. If I go for the TCB repair, can/should I keep the PCV the way it is or should I replace it with a non-gutted one?
If you've already gutted your PCV then there is really no need to have the dealer install the updated oil seperator. You basically added the airflow needed by gutting your PCV check valve, which is what the new seperator does. My concern with gutting it is because of a worst case scenario situation.

If I were going to gut mine and add a Catch Can, I would want to upgrade the check valves to higher pressure ones to prevent excessive crankcase pressures in an overboost situation. Probably not needed with a stock turbo, but I like the added insurance. Of course, there are other ways to properly vent the crankcase if needed. This is just my opinion though. Others may have different thoughts on the matter.
 

shelbywannabe

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If you've already gutted your PCV then there is really no need to have the dealer install the updated oil seperator. You basically added the airflow need by gutting your PCV check valve, which is what the new seperator does. My concern with gutting it is because of a worst case scenario situation.

If I were going to gut mine and add a Catch Can, I would want to upgrade the check valves to higher pressure ones to prevent excessive crankcase pressures in an overboost situation. Probably not needed with a stock turbo, but I like the added insurance. Of course, there are other ways to properly vent the crankcase if needed. This is just my opinion though. Others may have different thoughts on the matter.
What you say is exactly how Adam from Tune+ also recommended :thumbsup:
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