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Blue smoke out of exhaust

Alloy

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If you want to keep it simple just buy the UPR dual valve can it has everything you need included.

You shouldn't buy the universal Boomba can because it won't have the right brackets or hoses or anything for the EB. You could buy their EB specific can, and the check valve if you want.

But the UPR can has other benefits too.
I saw this post after i had read that Boomba has a EB specific can. 2 actually. So therein lies my dilemma: which Boomba to get and why?

http://www.boombaracing.com/mustang-ecoboost-stage-1-oil-catch-can-kit-ccv/

http://www.boombaracing.com/mustang-ecoboost-stage-2-oil-catch-can-kit-pcv/
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boosted_orange

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boosted_orange

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geokots

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Ron@cp-e

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I'm a boomba check valve fan
they aren't cheap but they have a ridiculously low cracking pressure as compared to the UPR valves
I'm using 1 Boomba can and check valve for my custom set up using the Perm PCV plate
 

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mpd3244

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Strokers, are you following this thread? It seems to be tied directly to aftermarket DPs. Unless the others on the thread experiencing the exact same thing all have blown head gaskets.
My Eco started this yesterday. It has NO mod's on it. 2200 miles. We were sitting still at idle with the AC running, very hot outside, when it began. It seems to stop when the AC is off.
 

geokots

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Has anyone itstalled the catchcan from UPR?
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-billet-single-valve-catch-can-separator-15-ecoboost.html

First thing I noticed is the it's slightly different than what's posted in the instructions. near the end it talks about drilling a hole but it ships with a different part.

I looks like it should be a straight forward install but thought I should check.

Assuming someone has installed it, how long did it take. Do you consider it a simple plug and play? any gotchas I should know?

Thanks
 

dragonacc

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Has anyone itstalled the catchcan from UPR?
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-billet-single-valve-catch-can-separator-15-ecoboost.html

First thing I noticed is the it's slightly different than what's posted in the instructions. near the end it talks about drilling a hole but it ships with a different part.

I looks like it should be a straight forward install but thought I should check.

Assuming someone has installed it, how long did it take. Do you consider it a simple plug and play? any gotchas I should know?

Thanks
The instructions were written before they had the silicon adapters made. No real gotcha's except some people have a real hard time getting the driver's side PCV hose off. I did mine by reaching in from the front of the engine, some go from below and some are able to go from the driver's side. You'll just have to mess with it.

Depending on how hard it is for you to get that line determines the ease of installation - 30 minutes or 2-4 hours. ;)
 

geokots

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The instructions were written before they had the silicon adapters made. No real gotcha's except some people have a real hard time getting the driver's side PCV hose off. I did mine by reaching in from the front of the engine, some go from below and some are able to go from the driver's side. You'll just have to mess with it.

Depending on how hard it is for you to get that line determines the ease of installation - 30 minutes or 2-4 hours. ;)
Thanks. I'll try get it done and hope I don't blow her up.
 

geokots

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The instructions on this is terrible for someone that's never worked with a catchcan.
How is it cleaned? What's the valve on the bottom for (not in the instructions at all)
 

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EcoSwag1990

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The instructions were written before they had the silicon adapters made. No real gotcha's except some people have a real hard time getting the driver's side PCV hose off. I did mine by reaching in from the front of the engine, some go from below and some are able to go from the driver's side. You'll just have to mess with it.

Depending on how hard it is for you to get that line determines the ease of installation - 30 minutes or 2-4 hours. ;)
Lol I hate things like that. I'm pretty sure I made the neighbor take the kids inside when I yelled F**K!! while trying to get the recirc hose off while installing my pipes
 

geokots

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Early in the thread there was a number of comments with people saying that this was caused by blown turbo seals.
Could someone confirm what the symptoms would be if it was? I would imagine the smoke would be more in volume and consistency. I'm getting smoke on occasion but not daily. It happens for me sometimes when idling and usually with the AC on.

I ask because my exhaust guy (without looking at it) said it may the turbo seal.
Reading through the thread, I don't think it is but hoping to learn more about the symptoms. If it is can it be fixed or does the turbo need to be replaced?

I am going to their shop on Saturday to have it checked out. I have received my UPR 2 stage catch can, which they will install if it's not the turbo seal.

If it is the seal would I now see more severe symptoms?
 

boosted_orange

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Early in the thread there was a number of comments with people saying that this was caused by blown turbo seals.
Could someone confirm what the symptoms would be if it was? I would imagine the smoke would be more in volume and consistency. I'm getting smoke on occasion but not daily. It happens for me sometimes when idling and usually with the AC on.

I ask because my exhaust guy (without looking at it) said it may the turbo seal.
Reading through the thread, I don't think it is but hoping to learn more about the symptoms. If it is can it be fixed or does the turbo need to be replaced?

I am going to their shop on Saturday to have it checked out. I have received my UPR 2 stage catch can, which they will install if it's not the turbo seal.

If it is the seal would I now see more severe symptoms?
No it's not the turbo seals excessive crankcase pressure and lack of venting causing the oil to back up in the turbo causing it to get past the seal then the infamous smoke
 

wmsky33

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The instructions on this is terrible for someone that's never worked with a catchcan.
How is it cleaned? What's the valve on the bottom for (not in the instructions at all)
The valve on the bottom is for draining the CC. When the lever is in line with the fitting, it's open, and any liquid inside the can will drain out.

There is a youtube video showing the CC install, [ame="[MEDIA=youtube]Ww8qgMxmkOw[/MEDIA]"] some good info in there about routing the hoses and stuff, but it's not anywhere as easy as he makes it look. First, I found it very useful to remove at least the airbox. It gives you a lot more room to operate. I also found it easier to go in from the front of the engine, as dragonacc said. Notice in the video where he puts his left arm with the screwdriver? I found it easier to reach at least one of the connectors going in through the front like that. Another thing to be careful of is that in my kit, at least one of the check valves was installed backwards. I had to swap the ends on one of the hoses for the air to flow in the right direction.

You can also find more info in this thread, http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21270
 

geokots

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Where's the PCV?
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