Best Brake Upgrade Kit for 17 Base GT?

[BetOnBlack]

Hey everyone. I've been browsing through the threads here and can't decide what the best option for upgrading my base GT brakes is.
I originally wanted to go all out on the GT350R kit, but I don't want to buy new rear wheels because of the offset.

Background: I tracked my car for the first time last year, and I could only get 3-4 hot laps in before the brakes started cooking. This was on a small track with a 100mph straight. A temp gun showed the brakes at up to 700F and even the wheels were burning hot to the touch. Ended up sliding off the track and almost hitting the barrier when the pedal went soft on my last hot lap. Had to sit out a while to cool down while the old M3's kept lapping :/

Would the PP upgrade kit be enough? Should I look into aftermarket kits? Fluid and pads? Are there cooling kits?

My car is a DD on 20x10.5 (+38) 20x9 (+35), stock power for now, planning to get a Procharger after my warranty is up.
Planning to go to more track days and AutoX this year.

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[EFI]

The PP kit with stock pads and good fluid will be fine.

Personally, I am upgrading the fronts to base GT350 units for about the same price.

LMR makes an adapter to be able to use those calipers on the GT hubs and with PP rotors. For under $1000 you can have the GT350 brakes up front, which I like better than the PPs since they have a cast in rear brace vs. a bolt.

A simple and effective cooling kit for those is the Vorshlag plates, similar to the PP ones. For your level, stock pads with stock ULV fluid will be fine. Once you start pushing the limits of those (or when you go with the Procharger), you can upgrade to aggressive pads and real high temp fluid.

 

[BetOnBlack]

The PP kit with stock pads and good fluid will be fine.

Personally, I am upgrading the fronts to base GT350 units for about the same price.

LMR makes an adapter to be able to use those calipers on the GT hubs and with PP rotors. For under $1000 you can have the GT350 brakes up front, which I like better than the PPs since they have a cast in rear brace vs. a bolt.

A simple and effective cooling kit for those is the Vorshlag plates, similar to the PP ones. For your level, stock pads with stock ULV fluid will be fine. Once you start pushing the limits of those, you can upgrade to aggressive pads and real high temp fluid.

So drilled and slotted rotors don't make a big difference for cooling?

 

[EFI]

So drilled and slotted rotors don't make a big difference for cooling?

Slotted yes, but no where near as much as proper venting. Drilled rotors are a gimmick and should be avoided on heavy track use as they tend to crack more than solid rotors.

 

[BetOnBlack]

Slotted yes, but no where near as much as proper venting. Drilled rotors are a gimmick and should be avoided on heavy track use as they tend to crack more than solid rotors.

By venting do you mean cooling ducts to the brakes? Sorry I don't know much about brakes.

 

[EFI]

By venting do you mean cooling ducts to the brakes? Sorry I don't know much about brakes.

Yes, directing cool ambient air right into the back of the rotors.

Most people do this either with ducts routed from the front bumper, or through deflector plates mounted on the lower portion of the suspension. The PP and GT350 do this, and Vorshlag as mentioned earlier has a direct bolt in for those with a bigger plate for more airflow.

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