Beating a dead horse; aftermarket CAI

[ManBearPig]

I have spent an unhealthy amount of time searching and reading through old threads….and I'm still unsure if I want to try an aftermarket "cold air" or not. I do not intend to ever swap intake manifolds, and really don't envision doing any other performance mods. I have full exhaust and a Lund tune, this is really the last thing I'm contemplating from the performance department.


I like the way the JLT looks, and this is really the only intake I'm considering. I am well aware that the performance gain is a never ending debate. I am also well aware that the intake air temps can get considerably higher. How much effect this actually has on performance is another never ending debate. I also realize these kits are significantly overpriced for what you get.


My main question is about drivability. I asked my tuner about getting a revision for an intake and I got the feeling that they may have been trying to advise me against it without coming out and saying that. I've always thought a tune revision for an aftermarket intake would simply be copy and pasting in an already well know MAF curve into the existing tune. They hinted that it may not be that easy, and fueling may need to be "massaged".


Even from day 1 with this car completely bone stock the throttle has felt a little weird at times (especially when not completely up to temp…holy cow it is bad when cold). None of the mods I've done so far have really changed that at all. The throttle still feels a little goofy but I guess that's just how it is. What I definitely don't want is the drivability to get any worse.


So my biggest question…when done right, does drivability and throttle feel suffer with an aftermarket intake (specifically a JLT)? My car sees over 30* at WOT and my fuel trims are almost always within 2-3% so I feel the tune is as close to dialed in as it can realistically get. If I can get an equally dialed in tune with a JLT I'd be happy. I'm wondering though if that is a realistic expectation?


Any thoughts?


Thanks

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[Ebm]

I have spent an unhealthy amount of time searching and reading through old threads….and I'm still unsure if I want to try an aftermarket "cold air" or not. I do not intend to ever swap intake manifolds, and really don't envision doing any other performance mods. I have full exhaust and a Lund tune, this is really the last thing I'm contemplating from the performance department.


I like the way the JLT looks, and this is really the only intake I'm considering. I am well aware that the performance gain is a never ending debate. I am also well aware that the intake air temps can get considerably higher. How much effect this actually has on performance is another never ending debate. I also realize these kits are significantly overpriced for what you get.


My main question is about drivability. I asked my tuner about getting a revision for an intake and I got the feeling that they may have been trying to advise me against it without coming out and saying that. I've always thought a tune revision for an aftermarket intake would simply be copy and pasting in an already well know MAF curve into the existing tune. They hinted that it may not be that easy, and fueling may need to be "massaged".


Even from day 1 with this car completely bone stock the throttle has felt a little weird at times (especially when not completely up to temp…holy cow it is bad when cold). None of the mods I've done so far have really changed that at all. The throttle still feels a little goofy but I guess that's just how it is. What I definitely don't want is the drivability to get any worse.


So my biggest question…when done right, does drivability and throttle feel suffer with an aftermarket intake (specifically a JLT)? My car sees over 30* at WOT and my fuel trims are almost always within 2-3% so I feel the tune is as close to dialed in as it can realistically get. If I can get an equally dialed in tune with a JLT I'd be happy. I'm wondering though if that is a realistic expectation?


Any thoughts?


Thanks

Manual or Auto tranny?

 

[ManBearPig]

Manual or Auto tranny?

2016 GT manual

 

[Zelek]

They have the MAF curves for all the popular intakes. I'm using a 2018 JLT intake and it's perfectly fine. Temps rise while idle, yes. I'm about 5-6 degrees above ambient while moving with a Velossatech big mouth.

Driveability is going to be fine as long as the settings are correct. It requires logging because they want the fuel trims to be on point when you change the ID of the intake or where the MAF is located.

You are really missing out without getting a 2018 manifold on all that top end power.

 

[Ebm]

2016 GT manual

My car is a manual also. You don't lose drive ability with just a CAI if the tune is good. Yes, it may take more than 1 try in some circumstances, but you can get it right. I believe drive ability suffers a little starting with a bigger throttle body though. I'd leave the throttle body alone and just try the CAI. My intake temps are as good as stock when I'm moving. The only time they are worse is when stopped in traffic or driving at very low speeds. I don't see this as an issue though.

What is your car used for? Daily driver only, weekend spirited driving, track, show car?

 

[ManBearPig]

They have the MAF curves for all the popular intakes. I'm using a 2018 JLT intake and it's perfectly fine. Temps rise while idle, yes. I'm about 5-6 degrees above ambient while moving with a Velossatech big mouth.

Driveability is going to be fine as long as the settings are correct. It requires logging because they want the fuel trims to be on point when you change the ID of the intake or where the MAF is located.

You are really missing out without getting a 2018 manifold on all that top end power.

I’ve done a bit of research on that swap as well. Most of what I’ve seen shows the power curve to be moved up 500 rpm but the peak hp numbers stay about the same. It would be nice to have the car pull farther but I don’t want to give up any of the already weak low end punch.

 

[BmacIL]

I do not intend to ever swap intake manifolds

No point then, IMO.

 

[VinnAY]

When you see the higher temps on the IAT readout on the dash you'll question your choice. But really my only gripe with the CAI is that it's worth about a $100, not $300 plus no matter how it's sliced or whatever scam is run to make you think it's worth it. Worst dollars I've spent in quiet awhile though in full disclosure I was not going to tune, boost or anything else to the car. Though even more so, telling someone you need this price and then oh hey you need a tune, too ($$$) to take advantage of the CAI is one of the most dog shit answers ever given.

 

[BmacIL]

I’ve done a bit of research on that swap as well. Most of what I’ve seen shows the power curve to be moved up 500 rpm but the peak hp numbers stay about the same. It would be nice to have the car pull farther but I don’t want to give up any of the already weak low end punch.

Peak is definitely higher (10-15 whp), but the big benefit is it's making 40-50 whp MORE than the stock manifold over 7000. I noticed zero loss in low end, and everything over 5000 is extremely strong.

 

[BmacIL]

you need a tune, too ($$$) to take advantage of the CAI is one of the most dog shit answers ever given.

They're not wrong, for any CAI worth buying (significantly larger MAF diameter).

 

[VinnAY]

I didn't say its wrong, I said its dog shit to tell you that after you spent $350 that you need more money for the tune to get anything out of the money you already spent.​

 

[toplesstripcruiser]

Peak is definitely higher (10-15 whp), but the big benefit is it's making 40-50 whp MORE than the stock manifold over 7000. I noticed zero loss in low end, and everything over 5000 is extremely strong.

What if you rarely, if ever, go past 7000rpm? Is the ‘18 manifold worth it, or just remain stock?

 

[BmacIL]

What if you rarely, if ever, go past 7000rpm? Is the ‘18 manifold worth it, or just remain stock?

Here's how I'd answer that: on the stock manifold I honestly didn't rev to 7000 rpm much. It stops pulling well short of that, and you feel it. With the '18 manifold, it pulls so hard from 5000-7000+ that you find yourself doing it fairly often. The power delivery makes that something much more accessible to do. Absolutely no regrets, and I rarely do anything like drag racing.

 

[Zelek]

Once you do your first pull to 7800, you will find out right away if it's worth it or not. Even crazier on an E85 tune. Redline at 8100 rpm with a soft one at 7950. I never worry about bouncing off the limiter.

I went with the 2018 JLT for the 120 MM inner diameter. Would have kept the Steeda but doesn't work on flex. I wanted the increased flow in the upper RPM.

 

[ManBearPig]

Did you dyno before/after? The last dyno video Alex put out showed the 15-17 and 18 manifolds making with in 1hp of each other, with the only difference being where they peak and the 18 losing some power under the curve.

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