BASE GT BRAKES, ANY ROTOR, PAD RECOMMENDATION?

[lava5oh]

Exactly. But also ask if they price match or will work with you compared to an online price. I used Lakeland Ford or Tasca parts and my dealer matched them luckily. No problem at all!

Sponsored

 

[Caballito]

Exactly. But also ask if they price match or will work with you compared to an online price. I used Lakeland Ford or Tasca parts and my dealer matched them luckily. No problem at all!

oh i see i will check those two out. d u track ur car once in a while?

 

[lava5oh]

Yeah I track my car 4-6 times a year.

 

[Caballito]

Yeah I track my car 4-6 times a year.

thats cool. u have a gt base also? thats what i got i just hooked it up wth lots of steeda suspension and it totally transformed the car.

 

[lava5oh]

Yeah base, and nice, I bet it drives really nice now.

 

[Caballito]

Yeah base, and nice, I bet it drives really nice now.

yea i highly recommended. am still on the stock 18 ans tires though. any recommendations on tires and wheels width size etc?

 

[Grintch]

Not wanting to hijack here, but do you know of any structural reasons why Ford (and even Mopar) have produced these front-side cooling rotors? I was under the impression that this was just a Ford brain fart, but Hellcat rotors are the same setup. If there was something about the rotor design that didn't lend itself to rear cooling for strength concerns, I guess I could understand that, but the GTPP and Shelby rotors don't appear to have that concern. What the heck?

There is surely more and cooler air availible at the outside of the fender compared to the inside of the fenders. Perhaps they are trying to optimize cooling for a stock car (that rarely has any sort of back side cooling duct).

 

[TicTocTach]

There is surely more and cooler air availible at the outside of the fender compared to the inside of the fenders. Perhaps they are trying to optimize cooling for a stock car (that rarely has any sort of back side cooling duct).

Yeah, that makes sense... I'm sure just the pumping action of the vanes will move air through the rotor, and it probably doesn't become an issue until you try to get the most out of the stock system. I'm personally more of an autoX guy, so I don't anticipate brake problems in that environment. However, if I ever decide to run more than an odd track event or two per year, I can't just add ducts to keep the brakes happy. Seems like having a wheel that is as open as possible near the hub is pretty important as well.

 

[Kboeh]

With the possible/probable exception of the 'Redeye' trim, H'cats have all been very much straightline-focused, and need only satisfy dragstrip needs rather than 20+ minute road course sessions. These days, all that takes is brakes decently sized for the car weight and pads with sufficient temperature margin for the conditions experienced during each of those stops. A design optimized for sustained cooling is unlikely to be required for only one or two stops at a time.

This cannot be further from the truth... I have a Challenger Scat Pack with the same brake and wheel package a the hellcats. The car has cooling ducts built into the front bumper to cool the brakes. Not to mention the fixed bilstein suspension, stiffer front and rear sway bars, and suspension tuning for road courses.

I take it to track days constantly and have no issues with brake fade. Obviously I am running track pads, which I think is most peoples issue with the 4 piston brake package on the mustangs.

I just had a conversation with someone on the EB mustang forum who tracks his EB PP as I just bought one for my wife and intend on doing HPDE events with it, and he still has the stock rotor set up. The issue here is not the design of the rotors, they aren't designed "wrong" it is just different from what most people use. What people need to remember is the extensive testing Ford requires before signing off on parts to go into a vehicle, if these brakes weren't up to the task of track duty they wouldn't be on the EB PP either. The issue comes from people using the wrong type of pad on track and from using old brake fluid, or inexperienced drivers over braking on track. I feel that most people exaggerate brake fade and are just over heating pads and brake fluid. Granted the GT weighs more the the EB, it is still a 3600lb car and the brakes will still heat up. Before swapping to GT PP brakes, why not spend a lot less and try a good set of track pads and some fresh brake fluid first, and maybe try to stay off the brakes some, use the suspension to your advantage, the car can corner at much higher speeds if you're taking the right lines.

 

[Caballito]

You will need these:
FR3Z-2068-C x2
FR3Z-2B121-E
FR3Z-2B120-E
GR3Z-1125-L x2

I decided to go with Powerstop Z23 pads for the street, then I have my separate track pads. The best way is to get some online prices from other Ford dealers/shops and see if your local dealer will price match or come down on their price. This is how I saved money on shipping costs.
Keep in mind there is a core charge on the calipers adding $100 total. You should be able to easily find a v6/Eco owner and sell them for higher than that.

What do u use for track pads?

 

[Caballito]

This cannot be further from the truth... I have a Challenger Scat Pack with the same brake and wheel package a the hellcats. The car has cooling ducts built into the front bumper to cool the brakes. Not to mention the fixed bilstein suspension, stiffer front and rear sway bars, and suspension tuning for road courses.

I take it to track days constantly and have no issues with brake fade. Obviously I am running track pads, which I think is most peoples issue with the 4 piston brake package on the mustangs.

I just had a conversation with someone on the EB mustang forum who tracks his EB PP as I just bought one for my wife and intend on doing HPDE events with it, and he still has the stock rotor set up. The issue here is not the design of the rotors, they aren't designed "wrong" it is just different from what most people use. What people need to remember is the extensive testing Ford requires before signing off on parts to go into a vehicle, if these brakes weren't up to the task of track duty they wouldn't be on the EB PP either. The issue comes from people using the wrong type of pad on track and from using old brake fluid, or inexperienced drivers over braking on track. I feel that most people exaggerate brake fade and are just over heating pads and brake fluid. Granted the GT weighs more the the EB, it is still a 3600lb car and the brakes will still heat up. Before swapping to GT PP brakes, why not spend a lot less and try a good set of track pads and some fresh brake fluid first, and maybe try to stay off the brakes some, use the suspension to your advantage, the car can corner at much higher speeds if you're taking the right lines.

What would u recommend as far as pad and brake fluid

 

[shogun32]

The issue comes from people using the wrong type of pad on track ... Before swapping to GT PP brakes, why not spend a lot less and try a good set of track pads and some fresh brake fluid first,

@Kboeh could you elaborate on the specific choices you've made?

 

[Bluemustang]

I decided to go the route of keeping the 4 pistons and bought Steeda 2pc rotors. I decided I didn't want to get Brembos which would keep me from using the stock 18" wheels.

I plan on using G-LOC GS-1s for the street and R10/R8 combo for the track.

 

[Kboeh]

@Kboeh could you elaborate on the specific choices you've made?

I have not swapped any yet, but do have a set of slotted rotors (from rock auto) and some hawk pads sitting on the shelf in the garage. It is my wife’s car and she probably won’t do a bunch of track days, but she will autocross with me so I don’t want to swap to Brembos. It’s been rather cold and rainy in GA and haven’t had a chance to go to track days yet this year so haven’t worried about swapping the pads or rotors. A lot of the guys on the ecoboost mustang forum track their cars with the PP ecoboost brakes which are the same as the base GT and don’t have issues with a proper set of pads and good fluid.

 

[Caballito]

I decided to go the route of keeping the 4 pistons and bought Steeda 2pc rotors. I decided I didn't want to get Brembos which would keep me from using the stock 18" wheels.

I plan on using G-LOC GS-1s for the street and R10/R8 combo for the track.

And would u say ur up to par with the pp Brembos? Or better?

Sponsored