Anyone have the new UPR Billet Oil Pan Drain Plug with Easy Drain Valve?

[Fly2High]

I was wondering if anyone has the new drain valve UPR has made and what do you think of it?

My initial impressions are

1. I like that it is all one piece. no parts to lose (except the rubber plug)

2. If one o-ring was good on the stock plug and on UPR billet plugs, why does it now require 2? Might be to add some friction to help open the valve without removing the plug part.

3. To OPEN the valve, you need to turn it clockwise. Why? I could see some mechanic turning it counter and end up removing the entire thing. Not a big problem because then it would still work like a regular drain plug. I believe they did this because that would tighten the locking tab against the stops but you still need to turn it counter clockwise which would loosen the plug? not sure on this. Not sure it matters either way. As long as they unscrew it all the way before they start adding oil. Forget to do that and yu have oil all over the place. I think they should have etched <- Turn to Close Valve" and "Turn to Open Valve ->" on the blue valve handle face. Make it impossible , ok or less likely, to make a mistake.

4. The blue valve handle stays attached. Good!!! no parts to lose like the Ronin which I am not sure you can buy spares.

5. The blue valve remains with what I would guess is 3/8" to 1/2" sticking out. Not sure I like this. Debris can get in there and gum up the threads requiring cleaning prior to draining. Not s deal breaker. Keep an old toothbrush in your oil change kit solves this. I was thinking of getting an accordion boot or rubber hose to fit over the blue valve handle to cover to keep this area clean. What bothers me a little is if something was to bounce under the car and hit it, how easy is it to get bent?

6. Rubber drain valve plug - there goes the idea of no loose parts and not losing anything. I am not sure how necessary this piece is and after speaking with UPR on it, it really doesn't seem to be required. Only trying to help keep things a bit better. I would have rather them put a cap with an attached o-ring so that the cap remains attached. Maybe if they could not find a o-ring attached one, we could simply poke a hole in the rubber plug, run a string through it and keep it attached with a knot and tie it to an o-ring that slips over and past the barb. A little length can allow it to hang there. Could even use a piece of light bulb pull chain if you wanted. Make it just long enough for the plug to be removed. The other thing that a plug makes me think of is the fact that maybe the valve can leak so they put a plug to prevent it from dripping. They should sell the rubber drain valve plug separately.

7. How do you take it off to get at the magnet? I guess the reason for left o close was so that you could close down the valve, taking the stress of the threads and be able to remove the valve to get at the magnet for cleaning/inspection. So the 'Turn right' to open the valve might not be so bad after all. Wonder if with two o-rings how easy it is to remove it now.

8. How easy is it to open and close the valve? Is it easy to remove the entire assembly? Which is easier: removing the assembly or opening the valve. I hope the valve does not require you to hold the base to open the valve.

Would have loved to see the valve knob offered in different colors. Either that, or just make it black or gunmetal or just make it look like their billet plug.

In all, I think it is a nice part and I like the idea.


What are your thoughts?

If you liked the idea of a drain valve on your Mustang which do you like the UPR or Ronin drain valves better? Why?

Would you purchase this part or the regular UPR plug and just deal with the possibility of a mess?

Thank you for your feedback

Sponsored

 

[Fly2High]

In looking at this design and the Ronin, I think you still are required to remove the valve each time you change the oil to remove most of the oil. The drain hole is still higher than when the plug is fully removed. I guess that is still good to do since that is also the only way to inspect and clean the magnet.

 

[green97probe]

I'd go with the Ronin just for the protective cap that screws onto the valve.

I wouldn't trust a rubber plug to stay in place.

 

[Fly2High]

From what UPR said, the rubber cap isn’t really necessary

 

[lightrules]

sorry dont visit this sub-forum much but saw it tonight. see my recent vid here about the UPR drain valve. overall so far i like it a lot.

 

[Fly2High]

thanks for the video.

I ended up buying one in part because I did not like the removable parts on the Ronin. Too easy to lose the drain piece since it is rarely used and there is no way to buy a spare without buying the entire unit.

Even with a couple complaints on the UPR valve, it looks like a good piece. Not sure how fast it will drain but that is kinda the point. Slow and controlled. Will need to install it to see how fast it drains. The blue drain 'handle' works with very little drag. Operate nicely without oil on it. Probably even better with.

I am going to give the dealership all my business for the first year and then install this thing. Few more months of free oil changes so why not take advantage of them while I can.

Anyone else purchase this valve while the price is $59.99?
https://uprproducts.com/billet-oil-...rain-valve-mustang-gt-gt350-f150-5-0-3-5-2-7/

 

[UPRjoe]

Just wanted to share with everyone that we have run these with and without the cap in the end. The plug just keeps is clean and is a nice addition. The plug will not fall out once installed unless you pull it out. We do warranty all our parts 100% against manufacturer defects. The double o-ring is because the stock drain plug rocks and is very sloppy in the pan and I wanted to improve our design and like the double o-ring as it gives a much more solid installation and better support to be able to operate the drain valve and eliminates the rocking the factory units have.

As for the threads being exposed we just recommend to to spray the threads with wd-40 and the dirt and debris will never be an issue. I have done all the testing without any wd-40 to be sure it will not have any problems or premature wear. They did exceptional as we installed them on a few F150 that go hood deep in mud and crud to see how the drain valves held up. Feel free to PM me anytime for any questions as we always want to be sure to keep everyone as informed as possible.

Also, remember when you are closing the drain valve not to crank it tight as it's an o-ring seal that you just snug it tight and it will seal perfectly fine.

Joe

 

[Elp_jc]

I'm looking at this design and the Ronin, I think you still are required to remove the valve each time you change the oil to remove most of the oil.

Correct. And that goes for any such valve. That's what I'd like to do as well (also to clean and monitor the magnet), but since it's billet, my question is if it can cause wear on the oil pan over time, so asked Ronin, and they said it's supposed to be left installed permanently. And maybe just remove it after several oil changes to clean the magnet.

I want to ask UPR the same question: For those who would like to remove it completely every time, can it damage in any way the tabs or other parts of the plastic oil pan? And would the O-rings stand the 'abuse' of every oil change removal? Thanks.

sorry don't visit this sub-forum much

Hey, a related question after seeing your video. Do you know if your 2018 intake is the same as the 2019? I ask because we Bullitt owners have the same intake as the 2019 GT350, and I don't think the regular JLT catch can fits it, since the intake port is farther in than on a regular GT. I also looked at the more integrated Ford Performance one, but again, it's different than my Bullitt. So I'm basically with no 'bolt-on' choice of a catch can now. And would like to have at least one choice . Thank you.

 

[lightrules]

Hey, a related question after seeing your video. Do you know if your 2018 intake is the same as the 2019? I ask because we Bullitt owners have the same intake as the 2019 GT350, and I don't think the regular JLT catch can fits it, since the intake port is farther in than on a regular GT. I also looked at the more integrated Ford Performance one, but again, it's different than my Bullitt. So I'm basically with no 'bolt-on' choice of a catch can now. And would like to have at least one choice . Thank you.

i am not aware of a different intake bw the 18 and 19 MY gt350s. AFAIK, it's the same intake. open to correction but that would surprise me if they were different.

 

[Elp_jc]

Okay. So you bought the JLT catch can for GTs, and were obviously able to fit it on your car. Need to look again to your video. Remember it didn't sit as nicely as on GTs, but probably better than nothing. If you could post a photo of that area well lit, to see how it sits, and to verify it connects the same way on the intake than our Bullitts, I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks.

 

[lightrules]

Okay. So you bought the JLT catch can for GTs, and were obviously able to fit it on your car. Need to look again to your video. Remember it didn't sit as nicely as on GTs, but probably better than nothing. If you could post a photo of that area well lit, to see how it sits, and to verify it connects the same way on the intake than our Bullitts, I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks.

this is the one i got: https://www.americanmuscle.com/jlt-oil-separator-v3-black-1117.html

 

[Elp_jc]

Thank you for that link. Yeah, it fits the Bullitts; saw a photo of a GT350 that is identical to ours. I'd have preferred the Ford Performance one, but Ford cheaped out on the valve covers for 2019, and it doesn't fit. I ordered a new PCV valve, so will monitor oil consumption, and decide if a catch can is needed or not. Don't like that it's just hanging there, but if it's actually needed in my car, I'd obviously buy it. Don't want to keep adding weight and crap if not really needed. Thanks again for the help.

 

[UPRjoe]

Correct. And that goes for any such valve. That's what I'd like to do as well (also to clean and monitor the magnet), but since it's billet, my question is if it can cause wear on the oil pan over time, so asked Ronin, and they said it's supposed to be left installed permanently. And maybe just remove it after several oil changes to clean the magnet.

I want to ask UPR the same question: For those who would like to remove it completely every time, can it damage in any way the tabs or other parts of the plastic oil pan? And would the O-rings stand the 'abuse' of every oil change removal? Thanks.


Hey, a related question after seeing your video. Do you know if your 2018 intake is the same as the 2019? I ask because we Bullitt owners have the same intake as the 2019 GT350, and I don't think the regular JLT catch can fits it, since the intake port is farther in than on a regular GT. I also looked at the more integrated Ford Performance one, but again, it's different than my Bullitt. So I'm basically with no 'bolt-on' choice of a catch can now. And would like to have at least one choice . Thank you.

UPR Drain Plug Response
The drain plug does not need to be removed every time you change the oil. I would recommend checking it if you like at 15K or 20K as that is when we them just starts to collect engine wear debris. The rare earth magnet is strong enough whatever it collects it will hold onto. Also the o-rings are extremely strong Viton o-rings and should stand up well with normal wear and tear. We always try to use the best materials so you don't need a rebuild kit like other models offer. Just build it right the first time so the consumer wins.

UPR Catch Can Response
Just a quick heads up for all the guys using the above mentioned catch cans. They are both very small and ineffective catch cans that are more to just satisfy the customer that does not know any better. We off small catch cans that perform much better than both of the cans mentioned and do not recommend them for the GT-350 platform. We make a 5030-98 which is a 2.5" x 6" body offering 3 times the capacity and volume with a patented diffuser system that is built to give you the best oil control and real world performance.

We see on a regular basis that our catch can systems capture almost 50% more oil than competing brands and this equates to Improved MPG and Overall Performance. UPR does not sell a one size fits all or placebo catch can and always worked closely with all the tuners and they all recommend our catch can systems hands down over any other brand. The reason is there is a lot more than just collecting oil as the key is to controlling oil and other brands still let a lot of oil get by over what you see collected in the tiny catch cans.

All cars can benefit from a real efficient catch can with a multi-stage diffuser system. You cannot compare the tiny honeycomb filters, sintered bronze pneumatic mufflers, or fine screens used to separate the in and out in the majority of the catch cans available. They are not designed to deliver the best results on performance engines and are engineered to be the cheapest to manufacture and maximize profit with a simplest solution. UPR designs all their catch cans with the task at hand to deliver the very best oil control and we are continually improving our catch cans to ensure we do just that.

We don't use plastic fittings, plastic lines or cheap rubber hoses. We use continental braided lines, plug n play fittings™, and forged aluminum fittings in the catch can. The internal design of out catch cans is completely different as we utilize coalescing screen and coalescing filters that are custom made for each system we offer. multiple stages and chambers to ensure the oil has time to drop out of suspension from the air to separate and coalesce properly. This also means you will have to drain or service our catch can more frequently as they fill up much faster from the improved oil control.

Sorry to run on about catch cans it's just when someone mentions a catch can I want to be sure they understand the difference and benefit they offer when you have a setup that is designed to deliver the very best performance. Our catch cans will allow more aggressive fuel and timing curves safely because they allow the cylinder to get the cleanest purest combustion by stripping the most oil from the PCV system and keeping it out of the intake tract.

Hope this helps a bit, Joe

 

[Elp_jc]

Thank you for your reply Joe. Looks like I'll stick to stock drain plugs then. I want to remove it every time to drain as much old oil as possible. I know it might not be needed, but I want to .

I started a new thread if our Bullitts really need a catch can if not tracked. And in case they do, the best catch can I found is probably the one you're talking about. This one, right? https://www.cjponyparts.com/upr-oil...mustang-gt-gt350-gt350r-2015-2020/p/OILSEP87/ Since the Bullitt has the GT350 intake, with a deeper and angled PCV inlet, none of the regular GT catch cans fit right... except this one, since the hose seems to be long enough. Quite expensive, but even though it's the largest (no need to empty it every 1K miles), it's the one with the least engine clutter. Hope it's not needed for my car, especially with a new PCV valve; it was defective right off the bat (they make a rattling noise), so obviously allowing more oil than they should.

 

[UPRjoe]

You can remove the UPR plug everytime you drain it as we offer two different units and our first design did not have a drain valve and gets removed every time you drain it. I personally remove either style of our plugs everytime I change the oil in our vehicles to make sure they are the most rugged and dependable available. I prefer the UPR drain valve as it's the neatest to drain with and I just drain all the oil through the UPR drain valve and then once it's done I pull the UPR drain valve to get any last bit and to make sure the magnet and assembly is clean and ready to go. I always keep the pan on a slight angle to make sure to get every last drop of oil as to start as fresh as possible. Either using ramps or the spacers on the lift to keep the pan angle to drain the best.

All engine benefit from a catch can without any question as we have been testing vehicles across every platform and seeing consistent results. If the engine is running properly and generating a strong vacuum source then it will seal the rings much better and evacuate the crankcase properly. When a PCV system is functioning properly it will always ingest or consume oil and draw it into the intake manifold. When the PCV system is not moving oil I would worry as that is a sign or a weak vacuum signal and will not be beneficial to ring seal and overall engine performance. Everyone thinks catch cans are needed because of engine blowby or poor ring seal which is only true in old cars that do not use a real PCV system and run breather filters or vent to atmosphere. Open filters and vent to atmosphere is the biggest nono for modern technology as manufacturers strive for better MPG and overall engine performance.

As for the catch can design and function you want a catch can that has multiple chambers and stages so it actually separates the oil and coalesces and doesn't just catch part of thee oil and suck the rest through the engine which is the placebo effect as that is what 99% of the catch cans out there actually do. We designed our catch cans to be used with all applications from your everyday grocery getter to track cars to all out race cars. We developed a system that has a very complex internal design and is extremely cheap for what you get and the performance it delivers.

There are so many small catch cans that just don't do the job and deliver the results desired. Here is a simple image to show you the difference between a pull through catch can and a complex multi-stage system that actually causes the oil to coalesce and fall out of suspension from the air stream. We used to offer a similar design to the other catch cans a long time ago and just hated the results and wanted to come up with a catch can that would deliver the best performance and eliminate all the cheap plastic parts and things that fail regularly.

The larger capacity and volume is to accommodate the improved oil control since you'll be capturing more oil the increased capacity is needed with the more complex internal diffuser chambers.

https://uprproducts.com/15-20-mustang-gt-single-valve-oil-catch-can-separator-plug-n-play/

The link here has a video and pictures so you can see the 5030-98 that is designed to fit all 2015-Present Mustang 5.0L and 5.2L engines with or without superchargers.

Joe

Sponsored