Anyone have any ideas on this problem? FINALLY SOLVED

[Leigh_bullitt]

It’s probably to do with the tune itself I guess on more conservative tunes it won’t rattle so much or not at all.
for my tune I didn’t send the stock map to be checked it was just an email tune.

I asked Shaun at AED and he wants data logs from me to dial everything in perfectly.

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[sk47]

my current theory is that it's a result of the high pressure pump being used more (gdi is great knock prevention and control) and the cams switching earlier at lower rpm for more torque. All of that load on the timing set at low rpm when the oil bypass is still open means the phasers struggle to lock until oil pressure comes up.

Hello; Over the few years i have been reading posts on here I seem to recall a change over time of the oil viscosity used in the Coyote V8's. I think even Ford changed the oil recommendation at some point but do not recall the years. Here is where i may recall incorrectly but vaguely think it went to 5w30. Best check to be sure.
Changing oil often is another important part of the engines. I know the recommended intervals have been increased lately, but I am suspicious. I still change at 3000 miles or one year even using full synthetic.

 

[Leigh_bullitt]

Yes they did change the oil to 5w30 I’ll get a new oil change soon with 5w30

 

[ice445]

Hello; Over the few years i have been reading posts on here I seem to recall a change over time of the oil viscosity used in the Coyote V8's. I think even Ford changed the oil recommendation at some point but do not recall the years. Here is where i may recall incorrectly but vaguely think it went to 5w30. Best check to be sure.
Changing oil often is another important part of the engines. I know the recommended intervals have been increased lately, but I am suspicious. I still change at 3000 miles or one year even using full synthetic.

That's correct, but I noticed no change between 5W20 and 5W30 in that respect though. Most off the shelf 5W20 and 5W30 oils honestly don't have that big of a difference in viscosity over 100C which is a pretty standard oil temperature with these cars. Some brands are especially egregious with selling a 5W30 that is barely any different from another's 5W20.

I feel like you'd have to go up to a 5W40 or 5W50 to make a difference if my theory is correct and you have this issue. If your phasers rattle on stone cold startup though, nothing is gonna fix that besides replacement.

 

[Leigh_bullitt]

Hi All
I have a theory to my problem.
Cam phasers and vct solenoids……

what if the car runs rough from cold because the vvt system is not running properly?.
That would both cause exhaust note to be off and less power and rough low rpm’s…

now once driven and left for a while what if the phaser pins set correctly which is why I have full power ???

 

[engineermike]

The vct phaser pin only comes into play when there is no oil pressure. A spring pushes the pin into a hole that locks the phaser at 0 deg. Oil pressure straight from the pump pushes the pin out of the hole, which allows the phaser to actuate. So the pin only plays a role for the first few seconds after startup.

 

[Leigh_bullitt]

Ah ok
That’s the rattle I hear on cold start ups. Not enough pressure when first turned over.

 

[engineermike]

Well it shouldn’t rattle on cold start because the spring pushes the pin into the hole to lock the phaser. Some ecoboosts fail the spring and rattle on startup.

 

[Leigh_bullitt]

Hi
Been a while since reporting this problem I have had and I think I’m getting closer.
Recently got an error code : P2453 which is the DPFE sensor for the GPF filter on bank 1 or 2.

I deleted the code and it hasn’t returned but I have been logging the GPF filter and the sensors and EGT sensors.

firstly I only have one EGT sensor reporting information the others are at -40 degrees. I’m sure the car has more than just one sensor.

secondly I’ve been checking the GPF and it seems that the car is forcing active regeneration of the filters maybe because the sensors are mis reporting ?.
If it’s auto regenerating from the cold start it’s basically pulling timing and running Rich to heat up the exhaust quicker and driveability will likely suffer from this.

the car then seems to run better when it’s not regenerating after I’ve left it for a while.

so I’m going to look into the dpfe sensors and the Egts to see if they are tricking the ecu that the GPF is blocked and needs regenerating.

 

[Leigh_bullitt]

So the problem is finally solved and I still have no idea what fixed it.
Dealer diagnosed everything and said nothing wrong with the car which was annoying because clearly I’m low on power.

anyway I decided to take a chance on a Steeda tune.
Didn’t think it would work because the car ran bad stock and with another tune but tried it anyway.

loaded the tune and boom.
All the problems have gone and suddenly it feels like I’ve got 100 horses back it’s like a different car wasn’t even like this when new.

I don’t know what fixed it but I’m guessing their was some sort of sensor calibration that wasn’t right in the stock maps and the tune has overridden the data.
Not sure but it works amazingly good now.

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