Amp people

[Pistol_91]

I use to have the big 3 on my last f150. The new thing is to run lithium or lithium banks. They are the new super good electronics.
It's OK to run a Power wire from the alternator to the rear power supply if the big three has been done. Now hear me out. The average upgraded alternator is 280 or 320 amps. The reason the power wire is ran from the alternator to the rear is because the factory wire ran from the alternator to the front battery is around 6 gage. The problem six gage can only pass around 70 amps through it.
I have been to a local show called scraping the coast that has many lowriders, jacked up trucks, and competition steros. The max I have seen is 4 alternators ran off one truck. Most have 2 zero gage wires ran from the alternator to the rear lithium banks or lithium batteries.
I'll check out north star and see what they have. I hope we wave helped each other.

You're talking about a way more advanced system than a measly 800w amp. I was speaking purely on your set up...

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[S550HPP]

I have 740W RMS @4 ohm max output 2280Wwith no issues at all on a 4 gua from battery to a splitter feeding mono and 8 ch dsp amp.

 

[Samiamthemustangman]

I have 740W RMS @4 ohm max output 2280Wwith no issues at all on a 4 gua from battery to a splitter feeding mono and 8 ch dsp amp.

A watt is a watt. To make watts you multiply volts by amps. If you want to make 1000 watts you need at least 83 amps at 12v (100 amps at 10v, 71 amps at 14, etc etc).
Big 3 is a fantastic upgrade even to small systems, I never believed in it but it made a huge difference for me in my F150 that was bagged.
Our alternator puts out 175 or 200 amps. The average draw is 80 amps. There is plenty of room left over for your stero.

 

[S550HPP]

A watt is a watt. To make watts you multiply volts by amps. If you want to make 1000 watts you need at least 83 amps at 12v (100 amps at 10v, 71 amps at 14, etc etc).
Big 3 is a fantastic upgrade even to small systems, I never believed in it but it made a huge difference for me in my F150 that was bagged.
Our alternator puts out 175 or 200 amps. The average draw is 80 amps. There is plenty of room left over for your stero.

I did see a new Police alternator for sale locally that I contemplated while I was sourcing good deep discounted equipment that have now with combined max current draw spec 90AMP....insofar as it's relevant to OP' questions...

I cannot listen at more than 23 it hurts..

 

[Samiamthemustangman]

I did see a new Police alternator for sale locally that I contemplated while I was sourcing good deep discounted equipment that have now with combined max current draw spec 90AMP....insofar as it's relevant to OP' questions...

I cannot listen at more than 23 it hurts..

If you get a good deal hook it up. Buyer be whare Make sure it has the extra amps to be worth it. The old 5.0 mustangs only had an upgraded fan besides cool lights and other stuff. That is what I was told.
Ì guess it's premium that have the electric seats. They supposedly have 200 amps instead of 175.

 

[Evolvd]

Big three aren’t needed unless you’re doing an SPL competition setup. I’m running 2k watts RMS on a stock alternator with a XS Engineering supercap. No issues whatsoever.

 

[Samiamthemustangman]

Big three aren’t needed unless you’re doing an SPL competition setup. I’m running 2k watts RMS on a stock alternator with a XS Engineering supercap. No issues whatsoever.

Thanks E. That is one of the things I needed to know

 

[S550HPP]

changing from bridged DSP amp channels for Sub to the Kenwood XR1000 transformed the entire sound.

 

[Samiamthemustangman]

changing from bridged DSP amp channels for Sub to the Kenwood XR1000 transformed the entire sound.

I have a ddx57075. Kenwood kicks a$$. It has plenty of awesome options 13 ban eq and crossover are my two favorites. But to tell you the truth I kina miss 17 band digital processors that have the bouncing eq. I had an old school pioneer last. Before they sold out. Some of the high end stuff is still good. The 2 options I miss that my pioneer has was it is possible to put a picture in the background and I cold see all the song settings. I have rebased music and I miss not being able to read which bass note the song will hit.
Are there any + and = to the Kenwood or your setup?

 

[S550HPP]

My Audison Bit 8.9 DSP amp is controlling the XR100 mono block..that I bought because it was open box 70% off and it's has internal cooling fan which helps since it's floating in the spare tire well in a cut out segment of the jack ect foam. I also elevated the trunk panel 1/2 " for air flow.

 

[Samiamthemustangman]

It was the battery. I don't remember exactly what the test said.

Positive power to the amplifier should always be wired to the positive battery terminal (not the fuse box lug or alternator) with a fuse no more than 18 inches from the terminal. The negative lead should be grounded to the body near the amplifier.

An 800 watt amp on a modern car's electrical system really isn't that much of a draw. At max output (which you're realistically never going to use due to numerous factors) it would be drawing 40 amps, I think.

It sounds more like your battery is bad - even if it reads over 12.5 volts with the car off, you could have a bad cell. I suggest getting the battery tested at your local parts store and going from there.

If I remember correctly it was the starter cranks. New battery and ready to give it a challenge. It's holding 800 watts great. I have the option to get a jl audio 500 monoblock for $75. Thats a super deal. I'm just curious what the maximum amount of rms watts have been put to the s550 without doing an upgrade. It will be all bass.

 

[Samiamthemustangman]

It was the battery. I don't remember exactly what the test said.

Positive power to the amplifier should always be wired to the positive battery terminal (not the fuse box lug or alternator) with a fuse no more than 18 inches from the terminal. The negative lead should be grounded to the body near the amplifier.

An 800 watt amp on a modern car's electrical system really isn't that much of a draw. At max output (which you're realistically never going to use due to numerous factors) it would be drawing 40 amps, I think.
Thanks
It sounds more like your battery is bad - even if it reads over 12.5 volts with the car off, you could have a bad cell. I suggest getting the battery tested at your local parts store and going from there.

Thanks
If I remember correctly it was the starter cranks. New battery and ready to give it a challenge. It's holding 800 watts great. I have the option to get a jl audio 500 monoblock for $75. Thats a super deal. I'm just curious what the maximum amount of rms watts have been put to the s550 without doing an upgrade. It will be all bass.

 

[Samiamthemustangman]

It was the battery. I don't remember exactly what the test said.

Positive power to the amplifier should always be wired to the positive battery terminal (not the fuse box lug or alternator) with a fuse no more than 18 inches from the terminal. The negative lead should be grounded to the body near the amplifier.

An 800 watt amp on a modern car's electrical system really isn't that much of a draw. At max output (which you're realistically never going to use due to numerous factors) it would be drawing 40 amps, I think.
Thanks
It sounds more like your battery is bad - even if it reads over 12.5 volts with the car off, you could have a bad cell. I suggest getting the battery tested at your local parts store and going from there.

Thanks
If I remember correctly it was the starter cranking amps. New battery and ready to give it a challenge. It's holding 800 watts great. I have the option to get a jl audio 500 monoblock for $75. Thats a super deal. I'm just curious what the maximum amount of rms watts have been put to the s550 without doing an upgrade. It will be all bass.

 

[m3incorp]

A lot of it has to do with the "class of the amplifier. Are you using classes such as class BD, class AD, class D? If you don't know what I mean about class, google it.

Bottom line, if you are trying to use a lot of watts without the Big 3 upgrade, then you want a class D amp, which is the most efficient.

Also, don't get caught up in the watt advertising because not all manufacturers use the same standard with marketing how many watts the amp puts out and especially for how long those watts are available.

It was the battery. I don't remember exactly what the test said.

Thanks
If I remember correctly it was the starter cranking amps. New battery and ready to give it a challenge. It's holding 800 watts great. I have the option to get a jl audio 500 monoblock for $75. Thats a super deal. I'm just curious what the maximum amount of rms watts have been put to the s550 without doing an upgrade. It will be all bass.

 

[Samiamthemustangman]

I got a kenwood, jl audio 6s, skar sub, and amp. The amp is 800 watts rms class d. The easy way to find out amps rms is write bench test, brand, model number, and video in the search engine. I understand exactly what you are saying. Many amp manufacturers write peak power into fooling new people so they will buy their amps.
I haven't looked up the amp I'm thinking about. It's a jl audio 500 used for $75.

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