Alignment question for new rims and tires

[AgSurfer]

I am having these SVE 350R 19x10 front and 19x11 rear rims installed on my 2018 Roush Phase II SC GT later this week. 285 Pilot Sport 4s on the front and 305 Nitto NT05Rs on the rear (I am using my existing Nitto NT05Rs and will be switching to a stickier tire after I burn these out later this year or next year - depending on driving habits). The car is lowered with Eibach Sportline springs, which I believe are approx. 1.5" front and 1.3" rear lower than stock. Based on collective research and feedback from other members running same / similar setup on their lowered cars, they did not have any clearance or rubbing issues. However, should I request any special alignment settings when having these installed? The 2018 GT does not see the race track (at least not yet and no plans to do so this year). It is primarily hard / spirted driving and will also see the strip later this year.

https://lmr.com/item/WK-177912A/mustang-sve-r350-wheel-kit-black-19x10-11-15-17


Thanks for the input.

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[NightmareMoon]

About 0.1-0.15 toe in per side in the rear helps with straight line stability. Zero toe front is fine.
Don't go below about 1 degree of camber in the rear.

Less static camber isn't always better for grip, because the car squats under acceleration which dynamically changes the camber.

 

[AgSurfer]

About 0.1-0.15 toe in per side in the rear helps with straight line stability. Zero toe front is fine.
Don't go below about 1 degree of camber in the rear.

Less static camber isn't always better for grip, because the car squats under acceleration which dynamically changes the camber.

Thank you. Very helpful. I will pass this along to the tech tomorrow morning.

Steve

 

[shogun32]

you have roll-center correcting front arms and bump steer kit? And camber plates?

 

[AgSurfer]

you have roll-center correcting front arms and bump steer kit?

Unless it was part of the Ford PP1 package, no, I do not.

 

[shogun32]

if handling is a big factor, it's a good idea to add those parts. Rear camber the stock adjustment is perhaps sufficient. What were you planning to use for the front to get at least 1.3 if not closer to 1.7?

 

[AgSurfer]

if handling is a big factor, it's a good idea to add those parts. Rear camber the stock adjustment is perhaps sufficient. What were you planning to use for the front to get at least 1.3 if not closer to 1.7?

Wouldn't the Maximum Motorsports adjustable caster / camber plates help achieve the desired alignment settings on the fronts?

 

[shogun32]

Wouldn't the Maximum Motorsports adjustable caster / camber plates help achieve the desired alignment settings on the fronts?

yes. you didn't mention that you had those. (or I'm blind)

 

[AgSurfer]

yes. you didn't mention that you had those. (or I'm blind)

My bad; the specs are in my signature

So you're suggesting I set front camber to say 1.3-1.7?

And based on Nightmare Moon's recommendation, I should also set the following alignment:
Front: No change to toe
Rear: About 0.1-0.15 toe in per side in the rear helps with straight line stability. Don't go below about 1 degree of camber in the rear; or stock camber adjustment is sufficient

thanks.

 

[shogun32]

My bad; the specs are in my signature

I have signature display turned off...

So you're suggesting I set front camber to say 1.3-1.7?

you want ~0.3 more camber up front than rear. If you settle on 1.0 out back, 1.3-1.5 up front.
1.3 out back -> 1.6+ up front.

Front: No change to toe

zero toe or 0.1 total (L+R)

Rear: About 0.1-0.15 toe in per side in the rear helps with straight line stability. Don't go below about 1 degree of camber in the rear; or stock camber adjustment is sufficient

there should be enough room to get 1.0-1.3 at the rear with the stock adjusters.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Stock rear camber spec is -1.5 I'd start there unless you have a good reason to change it. Ideally slightly more front camber than rear, is ideal, sure, but if you don't have the adjustable camber plates I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[AgSurfer]

I have signature display turned off...


you want ~0.3 more camber up front than rear. If you settle on 1.0 out back, 1.3-1.5 up front.
1.3 out back -> 1.6+ up front.


zero toe or 0.1 total (L+R)

there should be enough room to get 1.0-1.3 at the rear with the stock adjusters.

sorry - is this positive or negative camber on the front and rears you are referencing? I would think negative for improved cornering / handling - correct? Thanks.

 

[shogun32]

only pick-em-up-trucks run positive camber. Yes, always negative.

 

[AgSurfer]

only pick-em-up-trucks run positive camber. Yes, always negative.

I thought that was the case. I very much appreciate your and Nightmare's moons feedback on the alignment settings for this car.

 

[Grintch]

you want ~0.3 more camber up front than rear. If you settle on 1.0 out back, 1.3-1.5 up front.
1.3 out back -> 1.6+ up front.

there should be enough room to get 1.0-1.3 at the rear with the stock adjusters.

Why? For the drag strip?
I would want more (negative) camber for the street (especially if I already paid for camber plates). And a lot more for the road course/autocross course.

The Track Pack recommendation (which doesn't include front camber plates/adjustment) is
-1.6 F/-2 R IIRC.

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