Adjusting Camber for Track Use - Steeda vs. Maximum Motorsports vs. Others?

[Norm Peterson]

Once you have markings for where the track camber is and where the street camber is, it's just wrench work (with a little jack work to unload the suspension to make moving between street and track cambers physically easier).

If you're up for doing a little custom fabrication yourself, it might be possible to rig up positive stops on the inboard sides (for your track time) and on the outboard sides (for street). Or at least gage blocks.


Norm

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[Roger]

Brain they look very similar to the Maximum motorsports except for one bolt....

 

[Hotpart.com]

They are all going to be similar in design. The big difference is the silver looking plate is how the caster is locked in place so you can adjust camber without changing caster. Another advantage ours will have is the design spreads the spring loading through more of the plate and therefore more of the strut tower. We also offer a lifetime warranty on the complete camber/caster plate including the bearings.

 

[Voodooo]

Vorshlag makes the camber caster plates in the world! Top notch quality. I just got mine a few weeks ago. Love them!!! Plus if you ever decided to go with coil overs in the future it's an easy conversions. http://www.vorshlag.com/blog/?p=1067

Getting more camber with a plate is no big deal if you want to make the center strut tower hole bigger so the strut can be moved inboard (negative camber). I run -2 degrees on my GT350 with the Vorshlag plates on 11x19 forgeline ga1R open lugs with pilot sport cup 2 305/30zr19

 

[Roger]

Ok... I've ordered the J&M plates... Hopefully this will improve track times and add some economic benefit with regards to tire wear.

 

[tom_sprecher]

Vorshlag makes the camber caster plates in the world! Top notch quality. I just got mine a few weeks ago. Love them!!! Plus if you ever decided to go with coil overs in the future it's an easy conversions. http://www.vorshlag.com/blog/?p=1067

Getting more camber with a plate is no big deal if you want to make the center strut tower hole bigger so the strut can be moved inboard (negative camber). I run -2 degrees on my GT350 with the Vorshlag plates on 11x19 forgeline ga1R open lugs with pilot sport cup 2 305/30zr19

Those look sweet!

 

[Voodooo]

Those look sweet!

They are tasty!

 

[Coyote Red]

You can't eat cc plates, I had J&M plates on my 2014 Cyclone and they were great. Caster adjustment is crutial to help toe when - camber is dialed in. I adjusted my pony to 1.5- camber and left it there for streets and twisty's. If I had a "track day" then I'd go to -2.1. Firestone gave me "Life time" alignment for $ 185.00 or so.

 

[tedj101]

Are you able to adjust the camber on your own? That is a big benefit I would like to get from this upgrade.

I use the Steeda plates (in part because you really don't need to adjust caster on these cars, the factor settings are very aggressive) and do my own adjustment. They are very easy to use. Just jack up the wheel, loosen two of the three bolts at the top of the strut and loosen the third one a bit. (If you loosen all three, the wheel will move to the end of travel and you will have to do a bit of trial and error to get it back to where you started. By keeping one partially tight, you can move the top of the strut with a screwdriver and make incremental changes easily.)

I will say that the theory of making a mark and adjusting between events is a nice one but it is just a theory. It just doesn't work with this system. I made marks before I installed the plates then when they were installed, saw that the top of the suspension hides the marks. However, in practice, I don't bother to bring them back to stock for the street. I just keep them where I use them on the track (-1.6 degrees currently). I do enough track days that I am never going to see any wear on the inside edges of the tires from street use. My tires get used up on the track.

As to toe in, I do that myself too. I run 0 - 1/8" toe in and don't find a significant amount of change with changes in camber. If I wanted to change 1/2 degree up or down, the toe would be within my acceptable range.

YMMV.

<TED>

 

[SteedaTech]

I use the Steeda plates (in part because you really don't need to adjust caster on these cars, the factor settings are very aggressive) and do my own adjustment. They are very easy to use. Just jack up the wheel, loosen two of the three bolts at the top of the strut and loosen the third one a bit. (If you loosen all three, the wheel will move to the end of travel and you will have to do a bit of trial and error to get it back to where you started. By keeping one partially tight, you can move the top of the strut with a screwdriver and make incremental changes easily.)

I will say that the theory of making a mark and adjusting between events is a nice one but it is just a theory. It just doesn't work with this system. I made marks before I installed the plates then when they were installed, saw that the top of the suspension hides the marks. However, in practice, I don't bother to bring them back to stock for the street. I just keep them where I use them on the track (-1.6 degrees currently). I do enough track days that I am never going to see any wear on the inside edges of the tires from street use. My tires get used up on the track.

As to toe in, I do that myself too. I run 0 - 1/8" toe in and don't find a significant amount of change with changes in camber. If I wanted to change 1/2 degree up or down, the toe would be within my acceptable range.

YMMV.

<TED>

Great Info! Plus, Steeda plates are nickel plated for lifetime durability. Also, our plates center on the production strut mount bearing on the inner and outer diameter of the bearing, giving it much better support to eliminate future knock back.

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