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AC problems

toothdkdr

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My GT350R 2019 tryed the ac for the first time today only hot air. I charged it checked the compressor cluch fuse and replaced the compressor cluch relay, still no luck. Any other ideas before I take it for service and with no warrenty it could become quite costly:frown: Hey did not realize the was another thread posted already.
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cynicalwill

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My GT350R 2019 tryed the ac for the first time today only hot air. I charged it checked the compressor cluch fuse and replaced the compressor cluch relay, still no luck. Any other ideas before I take it for service and with no warrenty it could become quite costly:frown: Hey did not realize the was another thread posted already.
I had the same issue last year. I will look for my repair order. However, the problem reappeared again. :frown: . I will be taking it for service at the same shop in a week or two. The shop told me the issue could come back and I may have to replace the compressor. AC issues are known problem with the S550
 
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toothdkdr

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I had the same issue last year. I will look for my repair order. However, the problem reappeared again. :frown: . I will be taking it for service at the same shop in a week or two. The shop told me the issue could come back and I may have to replace the compressor. AC issues are known problem with the S550
Sorry to hear that, if you could let me know what they did and was it Ford sevice or an independent shop?
 

dpAtlanta

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My GT350 is in the shop for A/C issues for the 5th time.... the car is only 4.5 years old.
First: evaporator... known problem to Ford (part issue).
Second: compressor due to lack of proper flushing from prior repair.
Third: compressor due to lack of proper flushing from prior repair.
Fourth: compressor due to lack of proper flushing from prior repair.
Fifth: evaporator issue again.

I'm not impressed with Ford's evap supplier & my local Ford "technicians" who can't properly flush... its HVAC 101.

I fired the original dealer and convinced a second to take a come-back job & that's where it is now.

I still LOVE my Shelby... the dealership I bought it from has been fired and I have no love for them.
 
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NPTR

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I still can’t get over the sheer volume of AC issues these cars seemingly have, and the limited options I’ve seen to cure the issues. I’ve owned many cars with problem prone areas, but usually the aftermarket responds with a replacement part that cures the OEM inadequacy, or a rundown of preventative measures that can be taken that become common knowledge in communities like this. Seems like this is one folks here are just eating…

Correct me if I’m wrong, is there any preventative measures that can be taken? Any superior aftermarket parts that cure the OE issues so if we have a failure, we can replace the part with something superior and not prone to failure?

For such a common issue, im just so confused…
 

cynicalwill

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I still can’t get over the sheer volume of AC issues these cars seemingly have, and the limited options I’ve seen to cure the issues. I’ve owned many cars with problem prone areas, but usually the aftermarket responds with a replacement part that cures the OEM inadequacy, or a rundown of preventative measures that can be taken that become common knowledge in communities like this. Seems like this is one folks here are just eating…

Correct me if I’m wrong, is there any preventative measures that can be taken? Any superior aftermarket parts that cure the OE issues so if we have a failure, we can replace the part with something superior and not prone to failure?

For such a common issue, im just so confused…
Good Question@nptr
 

ecoboost321

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So sorry to hear all issues owners are having in this thread 😞

Maybe the base model GT350R was the way ford wanted to go all along 😞
 
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My compressor was repaired by Ford in 2023, and I thought it went out again recently. I spend time at the track and many GT350 guys complain about the heat ruining some harnesses. I gave the wires I could find a wiggle at their connection points, and what do you know? Ice cold AC again.

TLDR: Check electrical connections along the AC lines.
 

Cobra Jet

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My GT350R 2019 tryed the ac for the first time today only hot air. I charged it checked the compressor cluch fuse and replaced the compressor cluch relay, still no luck. Any other ideas before I take it for service and with no warrenty it could become quite costly:frown: Hey did not realize the was another thread posted already.

There's been a few threads on this site over the years with the S550 A/C compressor clutch or field coil assembly coming apart. Before that drastic failure happens the A/C clutch assembly won't be rotating evenly. Since it's not rotating evenly, the A/C belt would be wearing prematurely (burnt rubber smell). If that belt is wobbling, it could make contact with the other main serpentine belt sporadically, again causing a burning rubber smell.

The below I had posted for GT 5.0 owners, but the general tech and content may apply to the GT350 too.

Here's some A/C field coil/compressor clutch tech posts to review just so you can get a light down there and really check it out

This thread was from another M6G Member where the failure turned out to be the A/C field coil/clutch head:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/what-is-this-passenger-side-lower-main-pulley-ac.121072/

This thread has the info from the Ford shop manual for how to remove the clutch assembly/field coil:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...tentially-a-c-compressor.129712/#post-2686995

There is also this thread which discusses how to remove the A/C stretch belt (and an available Lisle tool to do it too):
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/ac-stretch-belt-help-please.175709/#post-3554880

Aside from the above and A/C psi testing, I would black light the A/C system.

Most auto parts store sell the A/C leak detector kits that includes the black light. With hood open and in a preferably low light area, use the black light and search every hose and fitting going to/from the A/C compressor, dryer and around the A/C condenser. The black light will reveal any leakage from hoses, fittings, or breached areas of the A/C condenser.

—-

Then, there is the HUGE A/C evaporator failure thread too if you haven’t seen that one:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/a-c-evaporator-factory-defect.62682/
That issue was more applicable to the 2015-2017 S550’s, but it’s not to say it can’t be a failure in a 2018-2023…

It could also be something very simple like a failing A/C pressure switch. On older Mustangs, one could pull the connector off the A/C pressure switch, jump/bridge the connector with a paper clip or U-shaped wire. Start vehicle and If the compressor kicks on and stays on as it should in Defroster or regular A/C mode, then it’s a bad pressure switch. Usually A/C psi switches are no more than a $30 part and easily swapped out.

A lot of info above for you, but if you’re not into having a Dealer rip into the car the tech in those threads above may help you do a self diagnosis and/or fix at home.
 

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toothdkdr

toothdkdr

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Where is the pressure switch located and can I access it? There is no noise from my compressor and no burning of the belt. I just checked the cluch and it rotates freely. Any ideas?
 
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toothdkdr

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I think I got lucky. Yesterday I tryed to add refrigerant with no luck, but tryed again today and to my suprise the ac cluch kicked in, cold air starting blowing. Now I will have to wait and see if there is a leak.
 

Lurker_350

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Just FYI - Ford adds UV dye wafers in the system at the factory. When you run the A/C, it will dissolve them and distribute the dye. If you have a leak, you should be able to use a black light in a dark garage and find it.....unless it's the evaporator.

I tried to find the condensate drip line from the evaporator to see if UV dye would turn up in the drain due assuming a leaking evaporator, but the drip line ends above the transmission/drips on it. I couldn't easily access the drain and ended up pulling the dash. Turns out that I had incorrectly assumed that the widespread evaporator issue plagued me too. Thought that I would have learned the hard lesson about solving easy problems first a long time ago.....

I didn't find any leaks in the evaporator/inside the cabin and just replaced O-rings on the low/high pressure lines where very small leakage showed up. I would try the easy stuff first if you have the gauge set, a vacuum pump, etc.

And as a PSA - if you remove the compressor, the fasteners are stated in the factory manual as one time use. There have been several owners that had engines replaced due to incorrect compressor replacement by dealers. If the threads in the block get messed up, it could be painful. Not sure if anyone has had success with helicoils or threadserts for the compressor.
 

Joe Mac

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My compressor clutch went out at 15,000 miles. Ford only sells the clutch and compressor together which is $850 dollars. i had a local shop replace it which cost $1800 for labor and parts . He gave me the compressor back saying its fine only the clutch was bad. So I bought a clutch for $85 dollars and I'll be taking it to get it fitted on to the compressor in case it happens again.
If you go over 6,000 RPMs with Ac on or the front defroster on it causes the clutch to fail. That's what the dealer told me when he told me the it's not included in the power train warranty and I was 3 months out of factory warranty.
My clutch sounded like a coffee grinder and luckly I had it replaced before it destroys the system
 
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toothdkdr

toothdkdr

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Well decided to check again with a gauge and had to recharge more so a leak. Used the refrierant with dye and noticed it was leaking from the low pressure hose just before its atached to the compressor. Anyone replaced this hose and was it difficult?
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