AC Delete?

[Childs Play]

lol @ AC delete in Houston.

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[keltymd]

You don’t need to worry about the belt. The AC is on its own stretchy belt

 

[oesman]

The first Mustang I ordered was a 1982 Mustang GT. First year of Ford doing something "performance" with a "larger 2 barrel carb", rear sway bar, traction bars. 157 HP. Silver with the TRX wheels and Michelins. Anyway, I ordered it without AC or radio. The salesman gave me a hard time talking about resale value. Anyway when I traded it in a couple of years later I got a really good price. They never checked whether it had AC or not. BTW it was the first car I owned in many years that would go over 120 MPH. Of course the only way you could tell is by the rpms. It had the old 85 MPH spedo.

Yea my buddy's 89 fox body project has the 85mph speedo too, pretty funny I think it can do that in 2nd or 3rd gear, I forget. Not too worried about resale since this car is gonna wind up with a welded in cage and all kinds of other crap that's going to pretty much destroy any non-race car value.

The compressor alone looks like about 15+ lbs. All those pounds really start to add up in combination with everything like seats, trim you don't need, light weight li-ion battery, hood, lexan glass, carpets, unnecessary trim, etc... That's >200lbs in just minor things you can do.

You don’t need to worry about the belt. The AC is on its own stretchy belt

Yep that's what I ended up finding, thanks!

 

[thatonenozz]

I have my motor out right now and don’t plan on putting the AC back in either. I think your 15+ lb estimate for the compressor is pretty accurate based on feel. Aside from pulling out the compressor/condenser is there anything else that needs to come out? Obviously the lines that go to the firewall also but are there any plugs necessary for the holes? Is there more to pull out behind the dash?

 

[oesman]

I have my motor out right now and don’t plan on putting the AC back in either. I think your 15+ lb estimate for the compressor is pretty accurate based on feel. Aside from pulling out the compressor/condenser is there anything else that needs to come out? Obviously the lines that go to the firewall also but are there any plugs necessary for the holes? Is there more to pull out behind the dash?

Trying to figure all that out myself. I'm thinking I can plug up the firewall pretty well, but as far as anything behind it I'm gonna be gutting interior when roll cage is ready along with seats. Other than that most the stuff is up front and easy to rip out.

 

[VertMustang98GT]

If this is done, I'd advise to document this as down the line, I'm sure others will do/look to do this for Race Purposes as well.

Thanks for sharing!

 

[awdtsi]

If you are deleting ac for weight savings might as well delete heat too. Get rid or heat exchanger, blower, ducts, vents. Make lexan vent covers. Can also eliminate a lot of coolant lines and clean up the engine bay quite a bit. Also eliminates a lot of potential coolant leak spots. This is of course if car is a dedicated track car.

 

[oesman]

If this is done, I'd advise to document this as down the line, I'm sure others will do/look to do this for Race Purposes as well.

Thanks for sharing!

Yep will document what I can.

If you are deleting ac for weight savings might as well delete heat too. Get rid or heat exchanger, blower, ducts, vents. Make lexan vent covers. Can also eliminate a lot of coolant lines and clean up the engine bay quite a bit. Also eliminates a lot of potential coolant leak spots. This is of course if car is a dedicated track car.

Yea for sure that's close down the road once I get to the interior gutting, caging, race seats, etc... Talking to some guys from fat house fab in another thread about kirkey seat brackets for the s550 now. Apparently few weeks before they're ready to ship!

 

[keltymd]

Yep will document what I can.



Yea for sure that's close down the road once I get to the interior gutting, caging, race seats, etc... Talking to some guys from fat house fab in another thread about kirkey seat brackets for the s550 now. Apparently few weeks before they're ready to ship!

keep in mind deleting the heater core also lowers the cooling capacity of the engine cooling system. You lower the amount of coolant you can hold as well as the heat dissipation through the core. It is not like the old days where they had a valve inline to cut flow to the core when you turned off the heat.

 

[oesman]

So I got the compressor out, all the lines out. That stuff is all super easy and obvious. I don't think anyone needs much guidance there. Basically:

Compressor Removal

1. You need 13mm and 10mm ratcheting wrenches.

2. Start at the compressor and unbolt the two lines going into it and pull out of the way.

3. Follow both lines and unbolt them at the condenser and going back into the firewall and get them out of the engine bay.

4. There is part of the harness connected to the compressor. Unclip it so you have slack.

5. Using 13mm wrenches unbolt the three studs holding the compressor. I found this easiest from the back under the car because I already had engine mount and starter removed.

6. Carefully lower it after the third stud is out. I nearly crushed my finger being careless. Pull it back towards yourself watching out for the wiring harness attached to it.

7. Unclip the wiring harness by squeezing it and pull the compressor out.

8. There is a third line going to the condenser that is in front of your radiator or behind your intercooler if equipped. Same story, go ahead and unbolt and follow it.

9. Crack open and kill a beer.

I'll eventually get to the stuff behind the dash and clean up further and document that. This is all that's left under the hood:

Condenser Removal

These instructions are a little application specific due to my power adder.

1. Remove the under-body shield via bolts and retainer clips from under the front fascia. Removing front fascia doesn't seem necessary.

2. Remove the radiator sight shield on top of the front fascia by unclipping retainer clips fro.

3. For a factory coolant overflow tank you should unbolt and push it out of the way.

4. Remove the upper radiator bracket bolts and push radiator up and towards the engine.

5. I could not push my radiator far enough due to my ProCharger Stage 2 setup. Skip to instructions below if you have a similar application.

6. Pull condenser up and towards you to unlock it from the plastic tabs and slide up to remove.

7. Re-assemble.

ProCharger S2 Alternative Instructions

I found that it is possible to yank out the condenser between the intercooler and radiator even if the procharger stage 2 kit is in your way. Basically I hooked two thick zip ties like handles around the metal tabs of the condenser that are locked in the plastic tabs. This let me push with one hand forward and have leverage to unclip and yank up the condenser without removing the supercharger. You should start on the passenger side and yank that up a few inches, then do the drivers since that has the least clearance. Keep doing that and eventually you can basically roll it over and the driver's side will come right out. Be careful not to damage the intercooler and radiator.

keep in mind deleting the heater core also lowers the cooling capacity of the engine cooling system. You lower the amount of coolant you can hold as well as the heat dissipation through the core. It is not like the old days where they had a valve inline to cut flow to the core when you turned off the heat.

Good point and yes there are going to be a lot of work to cool this thing down, including other fluids like oil, axle, etc..

 

[2morrow]

I know that this is an old thread but thanks for the write up OP

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