A funny thing happened today

[Usmc341]

Well not really funny. Went to start the car and I got a an immediate error message"steering lock fault detected". Car wouldn't start just sat there flashing at me. I disconnected the negative terminal for 30 seconds and now all is good. Put my reader on her no fault codes. Anyone have any insight to this?

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[mAkI]

One time I was on a stop sign at a very steep slope and when I tried to go the car rolled back a little so I used clutch/gas combo to hold it. Every single sensor failed. Cross traffic, blind spot, trac control, reverse camera, hill assist, launch control and a thousand others. I pulled it off the road and shut the car off and restarted it, same thing. But then I shut the car off and left the door open for like 30 seconds and it went back to normal. Since then I only had the dash crash on me once while driving from l.a to Sacramento but it restarted after being out for like 5 mins

 

[Usmc341]

One time I was on a stop sign at a very steep slope and when I tried to go the car rolled back a little so I used clutch/gas combo to hold it. Every single sensor failed. Cross traffic, blind spot, trac control, reverse camera, hill assist, launch control and a thousand others. I pulled it off the road and shut the car off and restarted it, same thing. But then I shut the car off and left the door open for like 30 seconds and it went back to normal. Since then I only had the dash crash on me once while driving from l.a to Sacramento but it restarted after being out for like 5 mins

Yeah hopefully it was a one-time glitch. I don't know if it makes any difference but before that I tried to start the car and I had my other vehicle's fob inside my pocket. I got the no fob detected message then when I tried to start it with the fob that's when it all happened. It was weird because I couldn't even shut the ignition off no matter how many times I pushed the start button. I guess the old reboot method works every time

 

[Elp_jc]

Two things that could help you both. First, there's a 'hill assist' feature on settings that automatically apply the brakes when starting up-hill. And it works great. It's NEVER good to hold the car on an incline with the clutch. Clutch pedal should only be used to shift. As an alternative, you can use the parking brake (like the old days), but never the clutch. The owner's manual says not to do that too.

Now to the OP. If you lock your steering wheel after ignition is off by moving the steering wheel anything more than an inch, you need to move it a little past that to release the force on the pawl (also like the old days), or the solenoid cannot retract, with the fault you mentioned. If the steering wheel wasn't locked, or locked but with little force on the pawl, then it's obviously not right. Hopefully just a one-time electronic gremlin. I had one of my own when recalling a memory seat, the left mirror went bonkers, trying to adjust to look at the sky, making an awful noise (TAK, TAK, TAK...), until I touched one of the mirror buttons. It happened again the other day, but on the other side, and just did it once, so making progress. Ha ha. Good luck with your gremlin .

 

[Grimmer]

I had a one-time gremlin once too. Started the car as normal, backed out of the parking space and started forward. After about 5-10 car lengths I got the "service advancetrac" warning and hill assist (among others) disabled warning.

After I made it across the parking lot and out onto the road all the faults disappeared without a trace. When I got home I checked for codes... None. So I figured I'd let it ride to see if it happened again. Never did.

 

[Usmc341]

Two things that could help you both. First, there's a 'hill assist' feature on settings that automatically apply the brakes when starting up-hill. And it works great. It's NEVER good to hold the car on an incline with the clutch. Clutch pedal should only be used to shift. As an alternative, you can use the parking brake (like the old days), but never the clutch. The owner's manual says not to do that too.

Now to the OP. If you lock your steering wheel after ignition is off by moving the steering wheel anything more than an inch, you need to move it a little past that to release the force on the pawl (also like the old days), or the solenoid cannot retract, with the fault you mentioned. If the steering wheel wasn't locked, or locked but with little force on the pawl, then it's obviously not right. Hopefully just a one-time electronic gremlin. I had one of my own when recalling a memory seat, the left mirror went bonkers, trying to adjust to look at the sky, making an awful noise (TAK, TAK, TAK...), until I touched one of the mirror buttons. It happened again the other day, but on the other side, and just did it once, so making progress. Ha ha. Good luck with your gremlin .

Thanks for the info. Now then I'm thinking about it I might have yanked the steering wheel getting out of the car the day before. What makes me think it was a glitch opposed to a mechanical problem was disconnecting the battery cable fixed it. Not sure, just guessing.

 

[Elp_jc]

Maybe that was it, brother. And it wouldn't be a 'mechanical problem', but just something you need to do to help the pawl retract. Furthermore, how much force the solenoid has also has to do with battery charge, so if not fully charged, it's going to get stuck with less force. It was probably borderline then, but the bottom line is it appears it wasn't really an issue. I guess we'll know as you put more miles on the car. But if it happens again, you'll be able to know if it's an issue or not depending if your steering wheel is locked or not, and how hard. Take care.

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