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joe603

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Makes sense...this will already be plenty of work!
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Started today....holy crap! I've taken the dash apart and removed the interior panels before, but I've never pulled the LCD and radio before. Figured out the PAC and wiring harness...getting that guy secure was interesting. Just used a fre zip ties and made sure it was clear of pedals.

Pulled one a-piller for the tweeter install...not fun. I ended up going at it from the outside...but I'm not sure how that will hold up. Maybe some hot glue or super glue will help. How did you guys do it?

Doors and Rear deck tomorrow. Also need to redo my amp rack too.

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Day 2...Finished the A-pillers with new tweeters installed, wired to the harness. Modified rear deck carpet with punched holes. Passenger side door 6.5 and 3.5 installed. (Which was NOT just plug and play...the 3.5 was especially annoying).

Still need to do drivers side door and rear deck, the amp rack. I didn't get a connector adapter for the 3.5s, so I need to wire directly.
 

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Didn't mean to hack your post Johnny man, but it was inspirational! That and the advice of Evolvd and of course NGOT8R! Thank you all for taking the time to post your install and tips/tricks!

All speakers installed...every single adapter plate needed to be modified to fit. The 3.5s have a different harness, so those had to be cut and wired direct. Tested continuity from the speaker wire to the PAC harness...works great! I did use the harness rear speaker wires for the tweeters, which were also a pain in the ass to mount to the A-pillers. Essentially using the harness wire to get from the kickpanel to the trunk.

For the rear, I decided to flush mount the tweeters in the rear deck mat vs. using the b-pillers. This is mainly due to the airbag worry and ease of modifying the carpet mat cardboard vs. the plastic piller. Oh BTW, that rear bolt for the rear deck 6.5 was fun....

Next up is the amp rack, connecting everything and tuning. Still thinking of the layout...this is what I have so far. Still need to carpet it up.

Any suggestions?



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All speakers installed...every single adapter plate needed to be modified to fit. The 3.5s have a different harness, so those had to be cut and wired direct. Tested continuity from the speaker wire to the PAC harness...works great! I did use the harness rear speaker wires for the tweeters, which were also a pain in the ass to mount to the A-pillers. Essentially using the harness wire to get from the kickpanel to the trunk.

For the rear, I decided to flush mount the tweeters in the rear deck mat vs. using the b-pillers. This is mainly due to the airbag worry and ease of modifying the carpet mat cardboard vs. the plastic piller. Oh BTW, that rear bolt for the rear deck 6.5 was fun....

Next up is the amp rack, connecting everything and tuning. Still thinking of the layout...this is what I have so far. Still need to carpet it up.

Any suggestions?

View attachment 798198 View attachment 798199

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20231128_181028.jpg
lol yeah that rear screw for the back speakers is a bitch! I ended up buying a Dewalt right angle driver which was still just a little too tall to get back there.

I painted my amp rack even though no one sees it with all trim panels in. I have a butt ton of extra carpeting that is as close to a color match as you can get. Let me know if you need some, I’ll give you a panel for cost of shipping.
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cool, a power fuse holder and ground in one box! Noice! What is that above? I also need to brace the trunk mat...so mine will be ugly for sure. I already bought the carpet. Didn't think about just painting the wood!

I may find a shop to do a plexi-glass deal depending on how it looks. Need to get the car back together...this morning's drive to work was LOUD!
 

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cool, a power fuse holder and ground in one box! Noice! What is that above? I also need to brace the trunk mat...so mine will be ugly for sure. I already bought the carpet. Didn't think about just painting the wood!

I may find a shop to do a plexi-glass deal depending on how it looks. Need to get the car back together...this morning's drive to work was LOUD!
That’s the T Spec distribution block, it also has remote wire distribution at full 12 volts so you can power on everything without daisy chaining your remote lead.
 
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Took yesterday off...but had 6hrs today. Finished the amp rack! Seems like just a short sentence...but it was a ton of work. The carpet worked out great...it had a peel-and-stick backing that I was worried it wouldn't adhere to the wood, but no issues.
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Finished amp rack wiring today! Did a test startup and the amps aren't turning on. Checked voltage and the main batt lead has power to each amp. No voltage on rem. So I looked under the dash where the PAC AP4 is and there's a single red led on. I haven't plugged in the USB yet, but I figured it should work out of the box.

Any suggestions? I'll troubleshoot more tomorrow.
 

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Finished amp rack wiring today! Did a test startup and the amps aren't turning on. Checked voltage and the main batt lead has power to each amp. No voltage on rem. So I looked under the dash where the PAC AP4 is and there's a single red led on. I haven't plugged in the USB yet, but I figured it should work out of the box.

Any suggestions? I'll troubleshoot more tomorrow.
Are you running RCA or optical? Did you set the DIP switches correctly? Lastly did you hook a PC to the PAC and make sure your settings were correct?
 

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Running RCAs. All dip switches are up (default). Haven't hooked up to a PC yet...is one red led good or bad?
 

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Running RCAs. All dip switches are up (default). Haven't hooked up to a PC yet...is one red led good or bad?
Check the manual, I don’t recall. If I remember correctly there is a master volume control which requires the knob being plugged into it.
 

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What PAC do you have? I got the AP4-FD21...but according to PACs website, there's an FD31 for 2018+ B&O systems?
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