Johnny man
Active Member
- Thread starter
- #76
Joe I agree with Evolved, the wiring from the harness is all you need. The pigtail in the kit hooked up to the OUTPUT of the OEM amp puts an artificial load on the amp to fool the system to transfer chimes to the PAC-pro and thus the new amps/speakers. the other wiring harness hooks to the car's factory wires so you do not have to run new wires for anything but the A-pillar's. The A-pillars use the rear wires to get the signal back up front because the crossovers for the door on mine are mounted in the trunk.... so 3-ways go like this..... A-pillar's rear leads, door woofer Mid leads, door mids Tweeter leads. The rear speakers will just get new wires directly from the amps mounted in the trunk. I mounted my amp below the rear deck because I use my spare tire all the time. The placement of my rear tweeters made a significant improvement on my set because the hertz 2-ways that I have the woofer produces very marginal mids and the deck cover and reflection off the glass does not have the power to overcome the sound from the front of the car. I believe if you went with 6X9 triaxials it might do it, but I can't say for sure.... but the movement of my tweeter definitely helped. The turn on lead from the PAC-Pro you can just run along with the power cable to the rear amp, or the RCA's to the rear ampIt's complicated because that's how it looks when you break it down and draw out the setup! I'm doing the same method as both you guys...just trying to figure out how to get the door 3-way component set signal from the amp in the trunk to the crossover for the set. If that crossover is located in the trunk, then you have to run the low/mid lines to the PAC wiring harness in the dash (to get to the door mid/low) and the high lines direct to the tweeter...so that's 3 pairs for each side that need to be run. If the crossovers are near the PAC, then you just need to get the one pair for each side to the crossover, and the low/mid can run to the PAC under the dash and the high can run direct to the high (tweeters).
The second method (crossovers near the PAC) is probably the easiest...just need to either use the factory wiring or just run speaker wire. The trick of using the rear speaker lines in the factory harness is one way...or the no-longer used subwoofer lines is another.
Then the remote turn-on line...this could also use the factory wiring from the rear deck speakers (if that's not used for the front 3-way crossovers) as a method from getting from the trunk to the PAC then to the AmpPro feed. Or just run the wire with the RCAs that go to the AmpPro anyway. I'm leaning towards just running a 14ga wire along with the RCAs to keep it simple.
Sorry for the double posts...not sure what's up with my browser.
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