2020 MANUAL GETS STUCK AT REDLINE

[Micks5.0]

This is the second time my Mustang got stuck at redline. I was in 2nd gear at full throttle, revved it out to 7,400, and shifted into 3rd, but it got stuck at redline. Initially, I thought I missed a gear, but it remained stuck at 8k rpm regardless of the gear or whether I was in neutral. I had to slow down to a complete stop on the highway to bring the RPMs down before blowing up my engine.

While completely stopped in the middle of the highway, it randomly revved all the way to redline again. The only way I could stop it was by turning the car off. The aftermath included a cloud of smoke emanating from the engine bay. Despite fearing my engine had blown up, it runs fine now. I'm concerned about the possibility of a third occurrence.

The first time this happened, I used no-lift shift from 2nd to 3rd and assumed I had missed the gears. The same issue occurred, although without the random revving to redline while being at a complete stop. Subsequently, I turned off no-lift shift. Despite this, I still have no clue why it continues to exhibit this behavior.

Possible causes:

*I am running a full bolt-on setup with an E85 tune from PBD.
*Stuck clutch
*I have an N2MB WOTBox (with the no lift shift feature turned off).
*I was in drag mode with traction control turned off.

It sounds like it could be a stuck clutch also because my clutch felt weird right after that ordeal, but I dont think it explains the random surging to redline at a complete stop.

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[ZXMustang]

Rip out that garbage WOT box. You dont need it. I would start there because I guarantee thats your problem.

 

[NGOT8R]

I remember you mentioning this problem before. Did a KAM reset not work for you? Factory tb or ported one? Any DTCs showing up?

If memory serves me correctly, I believe you said the shaft area around the blade on the tb was clean and not gunked up. When I had thst problem of mine sticking open and shut, there were witness marks in the bore of my tb.

Have you popped the cover off and looked underneath to see if anything looks amiss? The spring clips come off very easily with a flathead screwdriver.

The other thing that comes to mind is the WOT Box. Is yours set to the Mazda 3 or 6 in Global Settings? I was having trouble with my 2 step doing weird things like limiting the launch rpm because I had it set to Ford CKP in Global Settings. It needs to be on the Mazda setting. The other thing is, make sure you have the factory LC disabled when using the WOT Box 2 Step. That was an issue that I had, as the factory LC and WOT Box 2 Step seemed to be working each other. I still use both on mine, but If I want anything over the max limit (5200 rpm) on the factory LC, I turn it off and transition to the WOT Box 2 Step.

 

[Micks5.0]

I remember you mentioning this problem before. Did a KAM reset not work for you? Factory tb or ported one? Any DTCs showing up?

If memory serves me correctly, I believe you said the shaft area around the blade on the tb was clean and not gunked up. When I had thst problem of mine sticking open and shut, there were witness marks in the bore of my tb.

Have you popped the cover off and looked underneath to see if anything looks amiss? The spring clips come off very easily with a flathead screwdriver.

The other thing that comes to mind is the WOT Box. Is yours set to the Mazda 3 or 6 in Global Settings? I was having trouble with my 2 step doing weird things like limiting the launch rpm because I had it set to Ford CKP in Global Settings. It needs to be on the Mazda setting. The other thing is, make sure you have the factory LC disabled when using the WOT Box 2 Step. That was an issue that I had, as the factory LC and WOT Box 2 Step seemed to be working each other. I still use both on mine, but If I want anything over the max limit (5200 rpm) on the factory LC, I turn it off and transition to the WOT Box 2 Step.

I have the global settings set to Mazda instead of Ford. Since there was no check engine light, I didn't check for codes. After the first occurrence, I turned off no-lift and launch control for the WOTBox. With traction control off, the factory launch control was also disabled. The last time I inspected my throttle body, it appeared clean. I will follow your instructions to check the throttle body unit for any abnormalities. Additionally, I haven't performed the KAM reset yet, so I will do that as a precautionary measure.

 

[Micks5.0]

It appears I've identified the issue. The problem was with my N2MB WOTBox. After examining the wiring, I discovered a loose connection between the clutch position sensor wire and the blue WOTBox wire. I soldered the wire, performed a crank relearn, and tested to replicate the throttle getting stuck, but it never recurred. It's been two weeks without any recurrence of the issue. The smoke that emerged from the engine bay turned out to be from my clutch, which was getting destroyed, as the smoke only originated from the driver's side near the back of the engine. I'm probably going to need a clutch replacement soon.

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