2018 Mustang Whipple Stage 2 - A10 Transmission & Converter Build Time

[Chris Barnes]

This is a great thread .
I roadcourse my 10speed (paddle shifting)
As we know cooling is main issue for gen3.
Trans started to hesitate in ulshifting and especially downshifting because temps reached 240f .
Situation got worse and problem started to occur around 225f.
I got it on camera
( )

Rev after 5 sec was me downshifting from 7th to 6th and trans slipping .
Ford has decided to swap my transmission.
They were in back order so I've decided to take the car back home .
3 blocks after car decided to autobrake from 40 to 0 in 2 sec
Morale .CLUTCHES ARE GONE. And car can't move without having this autobraking every 10ft.
I'm considering upgrading clutches /valving for track duty.
I'd like to share some thoughts with you please.

Thanka in advance
Alex

What kind of ECT's and Cyl Head Temps are you seeing on the road course? Yikes at 240 deg trans temps!

Sponsored

 

[Flyhalf]

What kind of ECT's and Cyl Head Temps are you seeing on the road course? Yikes at 240 deg trans temps!

I'm starting now working on the car again.
So.
Latest update.
On the pic you see how my front looks like.
Top is big trans cooler. Lower is OIL COOLER.
What happened is : this massive coolers are now blockimg flow to my radiator so CHT went 245f.
Oil is still 280
BUT MY TRANS RUNS 218F MAX.

I also upgraded to a bugger radiator (mishimoto) without big results. To be fair. Temps were over 95f.
My new project is.
REMOVE THE OIL COOLER In the LOWER GRILLE.
BUY A SETRAB SQUARE ONE TO OUT SIDE BULYNSIDE WITH MY TRANS COOLER and make the lower geille free to flow. Radiator benefits the most on lower part due to gravity.
After this the only other option is.
BUY A 350feont replica to use the side grille for coolers or make a hole in my 18 side bumper.

After those.
I buy a ZL1 1LE. 10speed.
I'm the one trying every single possible option here. Without any help of Ford. Now the reason why i don't give up on my car is because we are fast together (4TT 4 WINS. ) .and also some self ego to not give up easily

 

[Chris Barnes]

Wow, that's 10lbs of shit in a 5lb sack, lol! I'm in Phoenix and the ambient temps in the summer exceed 115 deg and I've been fighting keeping the Cyl Head temps below 220 in normal around town driving. I'm seriously thinking of adding an oil cooler to take some of the load off of the radiator. Any thoughts?

 

[Flyhalf]

Wow, that's 10lbs of shit in a 5lb sack, lol! I'm in Phoenix and the ambient temps in the summer exceed 115 deg and I've been fighting keeping the Cyl Head temps below 220 in normal around town driving. I'm seriously thinking of adding an oil cooler to take some of the load off of the radiator. Any thoughts?

220 honestly is not incredible bad
Remember this is headtemp not coolant temp. What radiator you have?
Pp1 or standard?
Oil cooler might help. But
If you have a 10 speed you do have a trams cooler on top grille already. So if you want to avoid over heating the trans you will need an oil cooler in the lower grille. But then you will be like me. And the oil cooler will transfer even more heat to the radiator. For daily you might benefit to a thermostat that opens at 170. Also reduce the amount of coolant. Use more distilled water(like 80-20) and addwater wetter.
Also younwamt to consider athicker oil like 5w30. I love also to add motorkote to the oil. It is a great friction reducer

 

[Chris Barnes]

It's an PP A10 car with a Procharger. I have a Reiche 170 deg stat and water wetter already. Haven't tried using less coolant and more distilled water. I use Mobil1 5w30 along with a pint of Schaeffers Molly EP (made my coyote tick disappear). I'm wondering if I have a pocket of air in the system that I can't get out. It will run in the 195-205 range for a long while, but then suddenly approach 220 and not really recover unless I'm super easy on it. Another weird thing is it runs the highest temps at freeway speeds. It actually runs about 5 deg cooler in stop and go driving. Go figure? Does anyone have any cool tricks to make sure I have all the air out of the system? I've repeated the rev to 3500 rpm thing several times with no improvement.

 

[Flyhalf]

It's an PP A10 car with a Procharger. I have a Reiche 170 deg stat and water wetter already. Haven't tried using less coolant and more distilled water. I use Mobil1 5w30 along with a pint of Schaeffers Molly EP (made my coyote tick disappear). I'm wondering if I have a pocket of air in the system that I can't get out. It will run in the 195-205 range for a long while, but then suddenly approach 220 and not really recover unless I'm super easy on it. Another weird thing is it runs the highest temps at freeway speeds. It actually runs about 5 deg cooler in stop and go driving. Go figure? Does anyone have any cool tricks to make sure I have all the air out of the system? I've repeated the rev to 3500 rpm thing several times with no improvement.

That's a possibility.
I would flush the system. Also to put some more water.
Oil is good. Fyi i use 0w40. Mobil. My mainly track use. And cali warm weather.

Liquidmoly was my first friction reducer.
I passed to motorkote after i saw a great video of project farm on youtube (he tested moly and motorkote in 2 separate videos. ) motorkote is superior for wearing preventiin. And cost less. However i change oil almost every month( 1000miles top) So less money always good ;)

Sponsored