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2018 Intake manifold question

oDARKo

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Hello everyone, this will be my first post on this forum. I am new to the 6th gen Mustangs. I couldn't find a direct answer using the search feature so here I am. I am considering adding an 18 intake manifold to my 2015. Will it require an 18 throttle body as well? Any wiring harnesses or extra hoses needed for install?
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oDARKo

oDARKo

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I would like to add that I like having the factory closed intake box. Should I just pick up a stock intake box and tube from an 18 or will my 15 box work?
 

BmacIL

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Hello everyone, this will be my first post on this forum. I am new to the 6th gen Mustangs. I couldn't find a direct answer using the search feature so here I am. I am considering adding an 18 intake manifold to my 2015. Will it require an 18 throttle body as well? Any wiring harnesses or extra hoses needed for install?
You can and should use your stock throttle body for best overall results. You will need some 3/8" and 1/2" fuel line for the vacuum routing. It's recommended to have the IMRCs locked out by your tuner. There are a few threads related to the installation in this subforum that you can use for reference.

I would like to add that I like having the factory closed intake box. Should I just pick up a stock intake box and tube from an 18 or will my 15 box work?
Since you're doing a manifold that significantly improves top end power, I would strongly recommend an intake with more flow capability than the stock 2015-2017 box. The stock 18 one would work. I'm quite happy with the GT350 airbox.
 

toplesstripcruiser

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I would like to add that I like having the factory closed intake box. Should I just pick up a stock intake box and tube from an 18 or will my 15 box work?
Since you're doing a manifold that significantly improves top end power, I would strongly recommend an intake with more flow capability than the stock 2015-2017 box. The stock 18 one would work. I'm quite happy with the GT350 airbox.
You can get Steeda’s new closed
box intake. I’m thinking about the 2018 manifold with the Steeda closed box intake combination.
 

Zelek

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You can get Steeda’s new closed
box intake. I’m thinking about the 2018 manifold with the Steeda closed box intake combination.
I've got my Steeda closed box ready to go. Just waiting on some stock airbox pieces and I'll be good to go.

The 2018 stock air duct doesn't have the resonator that you cut off on the 15-17's. It's sealed off already.
 

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You can and should use your stock throttle body for best overall results. You will need some 3/8" and 1/2" fuel line for the vacuum routing. It's recommended to have the IMRCs locked out by your tuner. There are a few threads related to the installation in this subforum that you can use for reference.



Since you're doing a manifold that significantly improves top end power, I would strongly recommend an intake with more flow capability than the stock 2015-2017 box. The stock 18 one would work. I'm quite happy with the GT350 airbox.
@BmacIL hit the nail on the head. Stick with your stock throttle body, and buy a bigger air intake. You can't go wrong with a PMAS or JLT air intake. I suggest buying one used to save on cost. Also, buy IMRC lockouts from MMR which can be had for around $70.

If you think you're going to run E85 anytime in the future (which you probably will because who doesn't like some E85?), upgrade now to the Ford LU47 fuel injectors and install everything at once. If you don't upgrade injectors, then you can run regular gasoline perfectly fine with your stock injectors. Just keep in mind that you'll need the bigger fuel injectors for E85.

As for the entire install, after watching my friend do it for me, it's a fairly straightforward install. Save yourself the labor cost by finding a couple mechanically inclined buddies and tackling the install yourself. If you're like me who has a general understanding of cars but is afraid of breaking things, it's best to do it with friends. You'll get a better understanding of your car and how things look and work.
 

Zelek

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I just bought some 3/8" and 1/2" fuel hose off Amazon. Hopefully around 5 feet is enough.

Question on injectors. Is it okay to run 93 octane on bigger injectors or are they specifically designed for higher output with E85? Like many of you have said, you don't really want to have to go back and re-do injectors again if you do upgrade to something else in the future like FI. Is there such a thing as running too big of an injector even if you're on 93 octane?
 

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I just bought some 3/8" and 1/2" fuel hose off Amazon. Hopefully around 5 feet is enough.

Question on injectors. Is it okay to run 93 octane on bigger injectors or are they specifically designed for higher output with E85? Like many of you have said, you don't really want to have to go back and re-do injectors again if you do upgrade to something else in the future like FI. Is there such a thing as running too big of an injector even if you're on 93 octane?
That should be more than enough hose.

I don’t think using 93 octane with a much larger injector should be an issue, but I’ll let others chime in. You can always just buy used LU47’s and use them for now. Then, when you ever go forced induction, just sell them.
 

Vroom

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Hello everyone, this will be my first post on this forum. I am new to the 6th gen Mustangs. I couldn't find a direct answer using the search feature so here I am. I am considering adding an 18 intake manifold to my 2015. Will it require an 18 throttle body as well? Any wiring harnesses or extra hoses needed for install?
You don't have to delete your imrc's like others are saying, my tuner "Lund" recommended that i did but i did not want to lose any torque down low. Lund even has a guide on their website that i used to keep imrcs along with the plug and play harness and have not had any issues keeping imrcs. You will also need some small stainless worm gear hose clamps to keep everything down and to keep your purge valve on the hose. The vacuum line job is much simpler without the imrcs i will admit and the idea of cleaning up the rear of manifold is enticing. I ended up not even using any of the extra vacuum line i bought for this as i just scavenged everything off the old one including inner hard line to run atop coolant lines to top of imrcs. My engine bay is really dirty for reasons i dont want to discuss, but this shows most of the routing using all old hoses and connectors made to work from old intake.
IMG_20190108_162944276.jpg
 

Zelek

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You don't have to delete your imrc's like others are saying, my tuner "Lund" recommended that i did but i did not want to lose any torque down low. Lund even has a guide on their website that i used to keep imrcs along with the plug and play harness and have not had any issues keeping imrcs. You will also need some small stainless worm gear hose clamps to keep everything down and to keep your purge valve on the hose. The vacuum line job is much simpler without the imrcs i will admit and the idea of cleaning up the rear of manifold is enticing. I ended up not even using any of the extra vacuum line i bought for this as i just scavenged everything off the old one including inner hard line to run atop coolant lines to top of imrcs. My engine bay is really dirty for reasons i dont want to discuss, but this shows most of the routing using all old hoses and connectors made to work from old intake.
Thanks for the pic. I'll be keeping my IMRC's as well. I guess I will need to review the install a bit more. I thought you just needed the plug and play harnesses and you were good from there as long as the voltage is set properly in the tune? Or am I going to have to learn soldering? Lol.

I've got a 17 so I'll be down a hose on the intake.
 

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Bluemustang

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You can get Steeda’s new closed
box intake. I’m thinking about the 2018 manifold with the Steeda closed box intake combination.
Yeah but if you ever want to get a flex fuel tune that intake won't work. Lot of people don't have E85 available or don't want to use a flex tune anyhow, but IMO it's one of the best bang for buck things for the car. E85 adds minimum 10-15 hp and torque, possibly more down low. To me it's a no brainer.
 

BmacIL

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I just bought some 3/8" and 1/2" fuel hose off Amazon. Hopefully around 5 feet is enough.

Question on injectors. Is it okay to run 93 octane on bigger injectors or are they specifically designed for higher output with E85? Like many of you have said, you don't really want to have to go back and re-do injectors again if you do upgrade to something else in the future like FI. Is there such a thing as running too big of an injector even if you're on 93 octane?
It runs perfectly on 93 w/ LU47s. Give yourself the head room. Injectors are pretty easy to do even if you go FI later (though you'll want 55-65 lb at least for boosted).
 

BmacIL

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You don't have to delete your imrc's like others are saying, my tuner "Lund" recommended that i did but i did not want to lose any torque down low. Lund even has a guide on their website that i used to keep imrcs along with the plug and play harness and have not had any issues keeping imrcs. You will also need some small stainless worm gear hose clamps to keep everything down and to keep your purge valve on the hose. The vacuum line job is much simpler without the imrcs i will admit and the idea of cleaning up the rear of manifold is enticing. I ended up not even using any of the extra vacuum line i bought for this as i just scavenged everything off the old one including inner hard line to run atop coolant lines to top of imrcs. My engine bay is really dirty for reasons i dont want to discuss, but this shows most of the routing using all old hoses and connectors made to work from old intake.
IMG_20190108_162944276.jpg
And the mythical torque loss down low w/ IMRCS locked isn't noticeable, even with tall gears. In regular driving there isn't any loss of low-end. The one situation where there's a slight loss is below 70 mph on the highway in 6th, with gears like 3.31 or 3.15.
 

Vroom

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Thanks for the pic. I'll be keeping my IMRC's as well. I guess I will need to review the install a bit more. I thought you just needed the plug and play harnesses and you were good from there as long as the voltage is set properly in the tune? Or am I going to have to learn soldering? Lol.

I've got a 17 so I'll be down a hose on the intake.
No just buy a plug and play harness, see link for where i bought mine from. I also agree with others to get the LU47 injectors at same time as well, otherwise you will need a retune if you ever decide later and i think it will cost more. Also i would get your state inspection before you start doing all this to give you time to work the kinks out if its coming soon. As for tune files, don't be shy and ask for a few of them, Lund gave me a flex tune(91-93 or E85) with all ecu/module checks disabled, another flex tune with all ecu/module checks enabled (needed when you swap back your cats if removed for inspection time, im on stock cats still), e85 tune an 85R (strictly e85 tune). I mentioned the two flex tunes because im in texas and they are pretty strict in my area about not letting you get inspected when things like O2 sensers, cat check, evap checks, misfire checks are all disabled.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/LFP-PLUG-P...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
 

Vroom

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And the mythical torque loss down low w/ IMRCS locked isn't noticeable, even with tall gears. In regular driving there isn't any loss of low-end. The one situation where there's a slight loss is below 70 mph on the highway in 6th, with gears like 3.31 or 3.15.
I cant see any real performance benefit to getting rid of them. From what i've seen its hardly mythical, but it is measurable. It just simplifies things for the tuner.
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