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2018 GT Daily Track Driver

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txgt

txgt

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I’ve been using PowerStop Track Day pads almost exclusively for my HPDE events (except for a short stint on Hawk HP+ pads). The PowerStop pads are really a great budget friendly option, but I feel like I’m pushing the car to the point where I need a more aggressive pad.

After consulting with @Optimum Performance, I ordered a set of pre-bedded G-LOC R16 for the front and R12 for the rear. The pads came with instructions on how to prep used rotors to remove the previous “manufacturers brake pad materials on your discs”.

I’m excited to see how these brake pads handle at my next track day!

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G-LOC Brakes Rotor Preparation

From G-LOC:
If you have another manufacturers brake pad materials on your discs, then you definitely need to clean them up or get them turned by a professional before installing G-Loc™ brake pads. To clean your discs, use a power sander with no less than 80 grit sand paper, and some brake clean to the disc surface. This is to break up any of the other material on the disc surface. DO NOT get any brake clean on the G-Loc brake pads.

If you have had ONLY G-Loc™ brake pads on your discs, then there is no need to resurface or turn them.

From Us:
In our experience we have found that simply hand sanding the rotor surtace with 80 grit sandpaper is fast and effective. The idea is to remove any previous pad material from the rotor. We typically do not recommend turning rotors, Shelby GT350 Rotors can not be turned.

New rotors are obviously the best solution but if the rotor is not damaged (grooved) simply using your hand and fingers as the sandpaper support you will remove almost all the previous pad material from a used rotor. It usually only takes 10-15 minutes per rotor. Wash them with Brake Clean and wipe with a clean paper shop towel. This will give the new G-LOC pads an ideal surface to bed to.

Pre-Bed Pads do not need bedding but the pad needs a chance to transfer material into the rotor surface for best performance and wear. Depending on the rotor surface condition the pads will mate into the existing micro grooves on a used brake rotor quickly.

After preparing the rotor surface some moderate braking should allow the pad and rotor to be ready for track use.

GS-1 STREET COMPOUNDS DO NOT REQUIRE BEDDING
NORMAL STREET DRIVING IS ALL THAT IS REQUIRED

Attempting to Bed GS-1 Compounds May Cause Glazing of the Pads
 
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txgt

txgt

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Track Date: March 2-3, 2024

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This two day event at Eagles Canyon Raceway was put on by Chin Track Days. This was my first time participating in one of their events and it was largely the same as other HPDE organizations’ events. One of their unique differences is an 8:00am “Track orientation session” for all run groups under full-course full-time yellow flag conditions for learning the track.

Another difference is that with some other organizations there is only point-by passing in approved straights for novice and intermediate groups while Chin allows passing anywhere with a point-by for the intermediate group. This was my first time experiencing this and I really took to it. That experience made me reflect and realize that I think I’ve grown a little too comfortable in the intermediate group and I should start striving to move up to the advanced groups.

I drove to the event on the Hankook RS4’s but I also brought my set of very used Goodyear F1 Supercar 3R’s. Even worn, the 3R’s were absolutely a different experience and yielded my fastest lap time of the weekend of 2:14.372.

The only issue I seemed to have over the weekend was some clearance issues with my new Vorshlag brake deflectors. I have the Steeda front control arm tension links with the spherical bearings, the Vorshlag brake cooling deflectors, Vorshlag camber/castor plates (with -3° of camber), and Apex 19x11” wheels.

With this combination I definitely have some clearance issues as the spherical bearings, don’t maintain a consistent upright vertical “centering” of the control arm (I believe that the rubber in the OEM control arms coaxes the control arms to their default vertical centering).

This means that the large brake deflectors were coming into contact with the rim and even started to clearance against the oddly large wheel weights. After the track event, I removed the large brake deflectors and went back to stock until I could figure out a better solutions.

As it happens, on the day I was writing this post (March 17th) I happen to come across this post from @GTP on version 3 of his Brake Air Deflector Vanes. I’ll definitely have to look into his product if I can’t make the Vorshlag versions work!
 
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txgt

txgt

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They say that “rubbing is racing” but I don’t think that applies to tires and fender liners or brake deflectors and wheels! After the troubles with the larger brake deflectors coming into contact with the wheels, I took the GT down to Texas Track Works to have them take a look at clearances.

Looks like I had some tire rubbing against the fender liners as well as slight contact with the frame on one side (passenger?). We are pretty sure this is just from street driving, going lock-to-lock in parking lots, etc. Since this is still my daily driver, they went ahead and installed some steering rack limiters (similar to these, but not sure what exact part they used).

They also put it up on the rack and did some additional clearancing of the brake deflectors to keep them away from the wheels. They checked the alignment and everything is still in spec since the last time they aligned it.

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txgt

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Over the three years I’ve had this amazing car, I’ve only done cooling, suspension, and brake mods to the GT. I finally decided to “wake up“ the engine a little bit by installing the Ford Performance calibration with cold air intake and throttle body kit (M-9603-M8B) from LMR!

After getting some installation tips from the Ford Performance Tune for 2018+ GT thread, I was able to get everything mostly fit under the hood properly. As discussed in that thread, there are some fitment issues with the kit that can be overcome with a little care.‘

I still need to take another stab at positioning the foam seal so that it completely covers the gap in the air box.

Overall I’m very happy with this and the extra power and throttle response is fantastic. My ”butt dyno” approves!

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ice445

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Over the three years I’ve had this amazing car, I’ve only done cooling, suspension, and brake mods to the GT. I finally decided to “wake up“ the engine a little bit by installing the Ford Performance calibration with cold air intake and throttle body kit (M-9603-M8B) from LMR!

After getting some installation tips from the Ford Performance Tune for 2018+ GT thread, I was able to get everything mostly fit under the hood properly. As discussed in that thread, there are some fitment issues with the kit that can be overcome with a little care.‘

I still need to take another stab at positioning the foam seal so that it completely covers the gap in the air box.

Overall I’m very happy with this and the extra power and throttle response is fantastic. My ”butt dyno” approves!

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It does make a huge difference for sure, especially with the rev hang which I'm sure you'll appreciate on track!

With that said, you're gonna want to put in those heat range 7 spark plugs back in if you want to use this tune on track, lol. You want to give the best chance to avoid detonation in a high heat environment like on track if you're running additional timing. The tune is pretty safe, but it's better to give it the best chance to succeed. Especially since it was calibrated expecting those colder plugs...
 
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txgt

txgt

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It does make a huge difference for sure, especially with the rev hang which I'm sure you'll appreciate on track!

With that said, you're gonna want to put in those heat range 7 spark plugs back in if you want to use this tune on track, lol. You want to give the best chance to avoid detonation in a high heat environment like on track if you're running additional timing. The tune is pretty safe, but it's better to give it the best chance to succeed. Especially since it was calibrated expecting those colder plugs...
Yep, got them sitting in my garage, gapped, and ready to go in next weekend!
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ice445

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Yep, got them sitting in my garage, gapped, and ready to go in next weekend!
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Good stuff! Same ones I'm running and they're fantastic. Definitely eager to hear how she does on track on the next session with the new mods.
 
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txgt

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Good stuff! Same ones I'm running and they're fantastic. Definitely eager to hear how she does on track on the next session with the new mods.
Next track date is April 13th, so I’ll be able to report back soon!
 
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Time for some tow hooks! Since the long-term goal for my car is to eventually be a dedicated track car, I went with a permanent install instead of opting for something I can remove (like the ZL1 Addons).

I opted for the Vorshlag front and rear tow hooks as I like their simple yet strong design. While the rear tow hook doesn’t require any cutting of the bumper, the front does need a little trimming of the bumper.

I only had time to do the rear hook this day, so I’ll have to tackle the front later. I’m really happy how the rear turned out!

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This thread has been an AMAZING read, thanks for being so detailed. I have a 2022 GT and my car came with the lower K brace but I have the factory 20 inch wheel option which as I understand it means it got the K brace. I'm really intreated in the cowl extension, never new about that till this tread. My car came with the upper K brace/firewall brace (but no strut tower brace) and I wonder if that also means I have the cowl brace. I'll have to check that out on my car.

Also, and this might be a dumb question but what's the point of bracing the cowl like that? What benefit is it giving? Unless it's reenforcing where the upper K/Fire wall extension brace bolts too?
 

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This thread has been an AMAZING read, thanks for being so detailed. I have a 2022 GT and my car came with the lower K brace but I have the factory 20 inch wheel option which as I understand it means it got the K brace. I'm really intreated in the cowl extension, never new about that till this tread. My car came with the upper K brace/firewall brace (but no strut tower brace) and I wonder if that also means I have the cowl brace. I'll have to check that out on my car.

Also, and this might be a dumb question but what's the point of bracing the cowl like that? What benefit is it giving? Unless it's reenforcing where the upper K/Fire wall extension brace bolts too?
If you have the firewall brace then you have the cowl brace. The only thing you don't get from the 20 inch wheel package is the actual strut tower bar with the GT logo.

As a whole, the front bracing stiffens the front end and gives better turn in and steering feel in my experience. I added all of it to my car and the crisper turn in was the most apparent change to me.
 

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If you have the firewall brace then you have the cowl brace. The only thing you don't get from the 20 inch wheel package is the actual strut tower bar with the GT logo.

As a whole, the front bracing stiffens the front end and gives better turn in and steering feel in my experience. I added all of it to my car and the crisper turn in was the most apparent change to me.
Thanks for the reply, guess that's one thing less to worry about. Just gotta add the strut tower brace.

I do want to do the Performance Pack Front Control Arm Kit and belly pan though. Seems fairly cheap for the arms, belly pan, and pp2 lip. Might treat myself tonight
 

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Thanks for the reply, guess that's one thing less to worry about. Just gotta add the strut tower brace.

I do want to do the Performance Pack Front Control Arm Kit and belly pan though. Seems fairly cheap for the arms, belly pan, and pp2 lip. Might treat myself tonight
Unless I'm mistaken, if you have the lower K brace you should already have the PP1/2 lower belly pan. If I remember correctly, when I wanted to install the PP2 lip, I had to install lower PP belly ban, K brace with insulator and PP1 splitter first
 

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Unless I'm mistaken, if you have the lower K brace you should already have the PP1/2 lower belly pan. If I remember correctly, when I wanted to install the PP2 lip, I had to install lower PP belly ban, K brace with insulator and PP1 splitter first
I might be using the wrong terminology but i'm talking about what is posted here https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/2018-gt-daily-track-driver.185937/page-6#post-3857690

I've been under my car a few times and I for sure don't have big belly pan. I got the little aero plastic that goes around the K brace though
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