2017 Roush Supercharger Tune Not Available

[DAVECS1]

Well there is no reason to throw parts at it. 580 is respectable, but if you need the extra power, any respectable tuner shjoild be able to look at your graphs and make the needed adjustments to get the last bit of power.

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[davidryan1987]

420rw, 480? Not sure if I'm reading right, but to be that low, it would have to have an air pocket which basically boils the water and the IC works as a heat sink vs a cooler.

If you have a custom tune, what is the timing and IAT? That is going to tell you the power. Same as boost, if the intercooler has an issue, boost goes UP, not down so your boost vs pulley would be incorrect. This happens because air expands as it gets hotter. In this app, it would be 1-2psi higher then normal, with low power.

Flipping will help, but again, it's not a massive difference since it's a closed circuit. But, these are sensitive to timing and a little difference can make big changes if it can hold another 2-3deg timing. Only way to tell is to swap.

Here Is The Data Log That Shows The Timing.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/1bvl4w1yx21bjd7/Dyno Log 8_17_16_2.csv?dl=0

 

[Akwarreng]

Well I just got back home with the car and I'm absolutely impressed with the Whipple. I'm no stranger to fast cars as I once daily drove a 2G DSM with 552 awhp. I can tell you, this is the quickest and smoothest car I have ever driven. The drive-ability with the provided Whipple tune makes driving the car so easy. Its like the smoothness of driving a stock 5.0 in snow/wet mode, but with the response of track mode, and the power....oh my. I had my installer take me for a quick rip to see what to expect, and he had the car stepping out between the 2nd to the 3rd shift and I couldn't stop smiling.

I never had the opportunity to drive the car with a functional Roush supercharger, but can't imagine it being any better than what I have now. I honestly always wanted a Whipple but went with the Roush originally due to being able to wrap it into the financing. I'm glad fate had worked out to be able to get the Roush swapped out for the stage 2 Whipple.

Nonetheless, here are some pictures. Big shout out to Dustin @ Whipple for making this happen. I also highly recommend Jason Kilduff over at Coccia Ford for Whipple installs for anyone in need of one within North East PA.

So dealer installed the whipple in place of the untunable Roush? We're you able to include this in your financing? Did they say anything about your drive train coverage afterwards?

 

[stang17]

So dealer installed the whipple in place of the untunable Roush? We're you able to include this in your financing? Did they say anything about your drive train coverage afterwards?

The dealer worked with me due to the unique circumstances of the entire process. I was able to retain my warranty as well as have the Whipple wrapped into the financing. Whipple was also able to package in their warranty as well, so I feel pretty secure in the event of a failure.

However, I do feel the stock clutch is not putting all of the power down, as I'm experiencing some hesitation in between shifts. Almost feels like the clutch is slipping before it grabs under hard acceleration. I'm going to Evans Tuning in Mount Bethel PA this upcoming Saturday, August 27th to dyno the car to see what numbers it will put down.

I have had CHT as high as 215 and IAT as high as 153. I'm not sure if those are high numbers and maybe effecting power.

Nonetheless, I'll post numbers and pictures this weekend after I dyno.

Oh, and my city driving gas mileage is horribly bad lol. Only getting between 8.6 and 9.3mpg shifting between 2200 and 2500rpm. Smiles per gallon are rather higher though!

 

[DAVECS1]

So I did a quick log on you data and it looks like your getting a fair amount of detonation when you lay into it and it greatly effects your timing. I would not get on it until you get it fixed, that looks pretty hard on the motor.

 

[davidryan1987]

Thanks Dave! What would cause this? Tune? Spark plugs? Etc?

 

[DAVECS1]

Your IAts did not seem to bad I need to look at them again, to confirm. Fuel, and spark plugs could contribute, but the car can be tuned to run with what it has. My best first guess is the timing to agressive at tip in, that starts of a chain reaction the car does not recover from until you let off the throttle.your seeing signle digit timing at full throttle. While I think the ford cylinder heads are efficeint that is asking alot.

 

[davidryan1987]

Dave Like I Said Thanks Very Much For Look At This For Me. This Has Been Super Stressful.

When You Say Timing At Tip In Does That Mean Right When You Hold The Throttle A Little Bit It Throws All The Power At It At One Time? If So This Is Defiantly What I Feel. It Almost Makes It Hard To Drive With All That Power At Once.

When I Look At The Logs That IATs Must be In Celsius Correct?

 

[DAVECS1]

Correct, it is in Celsius. About 131 degrees or so at full tilt. I have seen them as high as 150 and still making ok power, not recommended, but as a point of reference. Tip in is when you begin accelerating. When you push on the throttle as indicated by tps and rpm you are seeing anywhere between 3 and 5 degrees knock. Thats is alot in my book. So not only does the detonation kill your power but then the ECM quickly retracts timing to save the engine, this effects the whole run.

 

[davidryan1987]

Wen I Look At The Log It Shows -Knock Is This The Same As A Positive Knock?

 

[DAVECS1]

Positive knock is a parameter I have not seen before. Knock is bad no matter what. My assumption is the sensor is picking up multiple frequencies from the engine, I would guess this is the rattle caused by the detnonation, the negative knock is the detonation occuring.

 

[Whipple SC]

Knock sensor is just a pid description, not its function. This is the feedback from the knock sensor and its logic of optimizing power. A positive number is taking away timing from its commanded base, a negative number is how much its advancing from the base timing. The advance or retard is to maximize peak power based off what the knock sensor is sensing. If it doesn't see knock then it advances timing to a specified number. This is all calibratable.

 

[DAVECS1]

So it adds timing in the presence of no detonation sensed? That is different from what I am used to seeing. Timing is not usually adjusted based on the absence of detonation, but by trying to achieve that maximum brake torque for a given RPM range.

This is good to know information. I suppose my assumption was wrong.

 

[Whipple SC]

So it adds timing in the presence of no detonation sensed? That is different from what I am used to seeing. Timing is not usually adjusted based on the absence of detonation, but by trying to achieve that maximum brake torque for a given RPM range.

This is good to know information. I suppose my assumption was wrong.

Correct, it's used to always maximize power, trying to achieve MBT. But, it's calibrated feature so some use it, some don't, some use it more, some less. It also requires one's knock sensing to be accurate as supercharged motors have very different detonation levels then stock.

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