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2015 s550 brake installation guide

Amacron

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I am looking for a step by step guide to upgrade my non pp GT to the brembos. Have all the parts except the copper washers also looking for a part. Umber for those. Local auto parts store doesn't have them.

Looking for step by step procedure including torq specs. I've search all over the web can't seam to find anything. Also need to procedure to bleed the brakes as well
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Amacron

Amacron

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I am upgrading my non pp brakes to the 6 piston brembos with powerstop rotors and z street pads. Have all the parts except the copper washers for the caliper hoses.
 

wildcatgoal

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Ok. So you can get the copper washers from a Ford dealer. It's more than likely an autoparts store has them, just not a parts cross-reference in their computer. Bring one of the washers you take off to the store and match them up. They're pretty standard. Need two per brake line connection to a caliper, one on each side of the fitting.

That said, it's best to change brake calipers with a slightly vacuum pulled on the brake master cylinder so fluid doesn't spew out OR use a pair of rubber-tipped clamps to squeeze the soft brake line just enough that it stops fluid from dumping out but not so much that you crush the thing.

Effectively you'll:
- Remove the brake line using a LINE WRENCH from from each caliper (some fluid will come out, avoid skin and paint contact. Skin contact will make you feel like you're sweating, feels warm... really weird and gross.
- Remove caliper (two bolts in the backside of the rotor)
- Remove caliper bracket (two larger bolts, backside of rotor connected to knuckle
- Remove the rotor (may need to wack the rotor hat, which is the center of it that the lugs go through, with a hammer to get it loose)

Then install the new stuff but in reverse but obviously installing the new brake pads and rotors, being super careful NOT to crossthread or overtighten the brake line to the caliper. Then you will want to bleed the brakes starting from the farthest wheel from the master cylinder (passenger rear), then driver rear, then passenger front, than driver front. Make sure to lightly rasp on the caliper in a few places maybe 10 times with a small wrench just to create some vibration that would dislodge a stuck air bubble. Make sure you have a nice pedal before driving. Drive around carefully and test.

Always make sure you have not twisted a brake line... you'd think that doesn't matter, but it does.

Obviously I may have missed something (for example I don't know if the EB master cylinder is appropriate for PP brakes or not...) so do at your own risk... these are brakes... best left to professionals if you don't know what you're doing.
 
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Amacron

Amacron

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Thanks wildcat. I have done brake changes b4 a long time ago. Thank you for the refresher :)
 

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Thanks wildcat. I have done brake changes b4 a long time ago. Thank you for the refresher :)
The copper sealing washers you use on the brake line bolt are expensive. Ford bent me over and left me sore. They were like $8 a piece. That's nuts in my opinion. :eyebulge:
 

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Amacron

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The Ford dealer in Louisville wanted 4.35 per washer. I just ordered from rock auto. The wanted 1.65 which included the banjo bolt and two copper washers.
 
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Amacron

Amacron

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Tried that they dint have any
 

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