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Semi

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I'm losing my mind researching all these suspension parts, please help.

I'm getting a tax return, a bonus check and an extra check this month. Tax return and bonus check pay off the credit card.

3rd check this month is mine to spend and
I've got a pending deal on the sale of a motorcycle seat that might bump this up another $500 so it'll be either 1700 or 1200.

I will buy a custom exhaust some day but tires and rims will be on my priority list for next year before an exhaust.

Here's my list. I've got the GTPP

I need a kit myself as a novice can install to get rid of the rear hop. Considered Steeda's stop the hop kit but that's 900 of my 1200 right off.

I want lowering springs in the front. I don't want to pay for an alignment if possible is this possible. I'm thinking progressives, I will hit the track this year but it'll probably only be 4 or 5 times, comfort is more important but I want a little handling in there and I do love the lowered look with the spacers I see all over this forum.

I want some jack rails.

Hood struts, take it or leave it. I'm not going to cars and coffee every weekend but it might be a nice add.

Sway bars... I'm not in a hurry but I've been reading under the rear braces can really tighten things up.

Cold air intake. I don't know if it's worth it, 30 horse, I think I want to focus on handling first.

Quarter panel louvers, couple hundred might be cool but I've got a guy on here possibly selling me some.

So rear wheel hop reduction is # 1 priority. Let me know what you'd do with 1200 or maybe 1700 if the sale goes through.
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LG23

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Lowering springs and a subframe bushing kit (I used steeda's) stopped a ton of the wheel hop I was getting and added no NVH. If I really want to get rid of more of it I'll probably get their subframe braces and diff bushings as well but for what I spent on just the sub bushings and springs it really surprised me how much hop it got rid of.

The jacking rails are almost a must. Getting those soon myself. As for the CAI the gains are minimal without a tune, the tune is what can give around 30 hp/tq with the intake- intake alone you are looking at 5-10 tops so not really a good use of $200+ dollars.

Overall since you say wheel hop is your #1 concern- Definitely go with the subframe bushings. If you want to get rid of what some people say is around 90% of it, get the diff bushings and subframe braces as well. Springs would help stiffen it up some as well. For those 4 you're looking at slightly under $800 shipped msrp but I'm sure you could work out a package deal.
 
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bizkitlimped

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If it were me, I'd definitely look into upgrading the stock suspension.

Throw a set of lowering springs, there's a ton of threads on here with bmr springs, steeda springs, eibach springs ect, check out a few pics see what you like.

the next investment I would make is the bmr subframe bushing lockout kit. I've heard nothing but good things about this kit and it will do everything the steeda stop the hop kit will do, for a lot less.

those two alone puts you at 500 or so.

don't waste your money on a cold air intake, if anything, replace the stock tube. Add an aftermarket filter and you'll be good to go. The stock boxes flow extremely well as is.

Get a tune. Arguably the best bang for your buck. On my v6 it was like night and day. the only thing I can say is I should have done it wayyyy sooner. it's like a brand new car.

if you haven't already, explore some exhaust options. Don't feel like you're pigeonholed into buying what American muscle and other sites sell you. You can find a prefabbed xpipe or hpipe from a local muffler shop and it'll cost you exponentially less. Get rid of that stock resonator, hack off the mufflers...throw in some aftermarket resonators after the crossover pipe of your choice and enjoy.
 

2015Etrac

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BMR makes a cradle lockout for wheel hop, it's like $180. I just bought one to install. Also, for suspension what type of drop are you looking for? I wanted a minimal drop, like .5in or so. I decided to go with Koni Sports and GT350R front and rear springs. I am waiting to install them but it seems like they should work well together. Total cost for the springs, shocks, and cradle lockout was about $1100-$1200.

I have a Steeda no-tune CAI. I like it, gains are minimal but it looks good and sounds good and in the future when I do get a tune, I can remove the insert and run it with a tune. I figured I'd eventually need one anyway when I decide to add some power adders, so why not get it now.

For the money you want to spend, I'd do springs, Koni's, and the BMR cradle lockout.

My first mod was an exhaust, the stock exhaust is pretty bad. I paid $149 for a J&M stainless X pipe, and $520 for a Roush Axle back.

For $1700 with some shopping around you may be able to get the shocks, springs, cradle lockout, axle-back, and X pipe.
 

ZanarkO

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Used springs, Steeda struts, bmr lock out and vertical links, done
 

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kluke15

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i went BMR performance springs which are matched well to the pp shocks and i really like them. was my only choice so i cant comment on comparison but i like mine a lot. it sits where i think it should without the slammed look. also got the bmr lockout kit. stops most wheel hop and feels more planted and predictable for pretty cheap. def would agree on a tune forsure. should have done that sooner but oh well. if i did it again i prob would not have gotten an intake. prob unnecessary but it was a gift so its free to me.

i have heard mixed reviews about the progressive springs, mainly only positive reviews from fixed rate springs. BMR i think is a solid choice because they drop the front a tad more than rear. shocks are prob unnecessary since you already have pp shocks. they arent great but they arent bad either when paired with better springs. lockout kit paired with pp i honestly dont feel like i need bigger sway bars. i havent done jacking rails yet but i want them. if you plan on working on the car at all or lowering it it would prob be a good idea for ease of access as well as added protection from scraping. def mod exhaust. its a thing of beauty when i get on it.

imo springs, lockout kit, rails, tune would prob put you at maybe $800 could prob find everything for less if you take your time and look around. i would also ditch the resonator for x or h pipe. will give you better note and slightly better throttle response i think for pretty cheap until you go full exhaust.
 

Rebellion

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I'd say, put BMR performance springs, CB005, and Steeda LCA...then drive the car around and see if you like it.

It's quite easy to go overboard with suspension when you're at it without a plan. The above should be good for a daily driver on a PP, takes care of most of the OEM issues.

The only other must have mod is a transmission oil swap, costs almost nothing and makes a huge difference in drivability.
 
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Semi

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Great feedback. Questions.

What's Steeda LCA
What Transmission fluid do you swap
I remember reading on the cb005 they said the front spring s work pretty well with pp rears, just for lowering is that right.... Or am I a fool to put springs on front only
On the tune? One of the Bama kits or pay someone? Never done this.
 

BmacIL

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Great feedback. Questions.

What's Steeda LCA
What Transmission fluid do you swap
I remember reading on the cb005 they said the front spring s work pretty well with pp rears, just for lowering is that right.... Or am I a fool to put springs on front only
On the tune? One of the Bama kits or pay someone? Never done this.
LCA: he means the rear lower control arm bearing. The front point the control arm connects to the IRS cradle at is a rubber bushing, instead of a spherical bearing. Going to a bearing here makes a big improvement in how the suspension articulates and feels on the road.

CB005: This is the cradle lockout kit. This is a great one as it prevents the cradle from flopping around under power and even under regular bumps in the road and hard cornering. The car puts power down so much better and the rear feels connected to the rest of the car without wiggling around.

Performance springs pair well with the PP shocks and are very similar rate.

Trans fluid: BG Syncroshift II. This fluid improves the smoothness of shifting quite significantly and meets the Ford specification for the transmission.
 

LG23

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Great feedback. Questions.

What's Steeda LCA
What Transmission fluid do you swap
I remember reading on the cb005 they said the front spring s work pretty well with pp rears, just for lowering is that right.... Or am I a fool to put springs on front only
On the tune? One of the Bama kits or pay someone? Never done this.
Why lowering springs on the front only? You want a super rake?

On the tune- if you have minimal mods, you're probably fine with any "off the shelf" (a tune that is generic that you flash as-is depending on your mods installed) tune like bama. Personally I went with Lund but there are a handful of good reputable tuners. I prefer to pay a tuner for a custom tune with the tuner doing a revision or two rather than an OTS tune because they tend to not be that great. In my Mazdaspeed3 I used an off the shelf tune and when I switched to a custom tune it was soo much better. Keep in mind you will need to pay for the device as well to use to upload the tune to your car.
 

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Rebellion

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I'd suggest doing the rear springs anyways since the bounce issue originates from the rear. The installation of the CB005, LCA and rear spring go hand in hand...put all 3 mods there in one go instead of disassembling the IRS over and over.

After that, get an alignment, you'll need it.
 
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Semi

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Thanks for all the feedback, hopefully I ordered correctly.
 

BmacIL

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Thanks for all the feedback, hopefully I ordered correctly.
Replace that SR copy with the legit BMR kit. Same price and better quality. Plus supporting a manufacturer that is active in supporting this community.
 

Clink

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Replace that SR copy with the legit BMR kit. Same price and better quality. Plus supporting a manufacturer that is active in supporting this community.
StraightReplica
 
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Semi

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Isn't it patented and if so doesn't bmr get a kick back? I've already placed the order with American muscle.
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