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10R80 shudder

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Hey guys,

Owner of a stang GT ‘23 PP with magneride. I am supposedly the 2nd owner of the car. There is a shuddering from the front end that passes to the back on upshifts from 5th gear ownwards until 10th gear. When I’m cruising in 10th gear it’s ok, but if I apply throttle, the car hesitates to pick up, there is a resistance and the front vibrates and then it picks up, all
this happens in seconds. At high RPMS it performs fine, at low RPMs there is this strange vibration that can be felt when I apply throttle and upshifts have this annoying shudder which sometimes causes strange resistance to accelerate for a second when I apply more throttle during the shudder.

main thing is the shudder is felt most in normal mode. In sport + and track mode it’s 98% perfect I don’t even know that it shifts. Normal mode has this issue mostly.

No engine light or anything. Once I applied more throttle during the low rpm vibration while taking a uturn and then the spanner symbol popped up. I turned the car off and on and it was gone. I saw some people online asking to use friction modifier along with the trans fluid after a flush to solve this, but I’m so confused because this happens to me on normal mode only most of the time. If it was mechanical, I should be feeling it on all the modes yeah? Your thoughts and advise would be greatly appreciated.

thanks!
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Dali

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Hey,
i am from Europe and i habe a MY2020 Mustang GT with 10R80.
I have the same issue and the third transmission at my Mustang.
The last change was with 58k miles.
And the problem is not solved.

Do you solve this issue by your mustang?
How many miles do you have on it?
At what mileage the problem start?

You and i are the only persons in the internet who discribes this issue on a S550 Mustang with the 10R80.

Now i will change my car batterie, because I ask ChatGPT, what can be the problem, that my car is shifting good at one day and on an other it is terrible.
They said maybe the car batterie or the alternator, because the 10R80 need a high voltage to run smoothly.

Please tell me that you solve this issue.
Thanks

Best Regards
Dalibor
 

Joe Gonsalves

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I started a thread on this 10R80 Adaptive Learning with different drive modes. But the 10R80 is a learning transmission. It will learn bad driving habits. You need to clear out the learned shift tables using the tool ForScan that you can download for free. Although you need the OBDII to USB cable like $20 to $40. Once you clear the table the car starts learning from scratch and it takes a few 100 miles before is smooths out. I did this to mine and while not 100% it is 99% better. I also drive in "S" mode all the time and the car really loves it. I only use normal in stop and go traffic.
 
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nithinmohan007
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Hey there guys,

Thanks for the replies! I am now running 41k kms on my Mustang MY2023 and I have tried the option of connecting the OBD and using forscan to clear the adaptive tables and also stopped the learning process. It was a bit better but i am still facing the same issue even after several 1000 miles.

When I drive in normal mode the shudders are very very evident after the 5th gear when it shifts to 6th and above that each shift gives the bad shudder. Also when I’m on the 10th gear if I give a good push on the accelerator pedal to pick up some speed it shudders a lot for like 2-3 seconds and then it picks up.. it’s really scary and frustrating but I found no solution yet. I take it to a garage where they service atleast 5 mustangs from the s550 gen daily and they are very shocked to hear about my experience.

One thing is when the transmission is well heated up, the shudders are very less. That’s what happens when I make any mechanic drive my car to show him the problem! They say it is normal! When it’s cold it’s very scary and unfortunately I’m not able to show it to anyone!

What I read online and what I could understand is that the shudder is due to bad tuning of the 10R80 transmission by Ford. Because when I use the sports + driving mode, it is much better and I’m always using this mode now. If it was a mechanical issue, it would feel the same in all modes yeah? I’m not saying sports + completely solves the problem, but surely around 60% smoother shifts compared to normal mode and better throttle response.

I also read that adding Ford friction modifier with the transmission fluid helped some people (not for the same cars, for f150 n other fords also). I also read somewhere that the Camaro uses the same 10R80 tranny and nobody has ever reported such issues or any jerks or tranny related issues coz Chevy did a good job tuning it!

My mechanic says not to change the gear oil now as it may start other problems (I really don’t know what he means?!), he’s not so confident with replacing oil maybe they are not very experienced at it. And I’m not sure at what kms it is best recommended to change it?!

Also just a week ago, my car broke down at a petrol bunk coz the battery died. It was not the original recommended battery on it (I’m not the first owner so I’m not sure when it was replaced last). Luckily the petrol bunk had a garage right behind it and I had no option than to purchase a battery that’s available there and matching what was there in ‘my car already (62AH of AC Delco brand). I got an Energizer max 62AH battery and the shudder experiences are still the same. I wish I had an option to get the OEM recommended battery to confirm if that solves my problem. Maybe next time. Hope this helps.
 

Joe Gonsalves

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Do not turn learning off. The transmission will never adjust the shift pressures. Just clear the table. Now there are 2 stop modes "Halt" means stop updating the table and use the stored values. Good for when it's all sorted out. And "Stop" means stop using the table altogether. Not recommended.
 

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Joe Gonsalves

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I also forgot to mention that the transmission fluid level could be low when cold. The fluid type increases in volume when hot. That may explain why you see improvement when it warms up. Checking the level is a PIA and you will burn your hand getting to the tiny dip stick from under the car.
 

Dali

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Hey there guys,

Thanks for the replies! I am now running 41k kms on my Mustang MY2023 and I have tried the option of connecting the OBD and using forscan to clear the adaptive tables and also stopped the learning process. It was a bit better but i am still facing the same issue even after several 1000 miles.

When I drive in normal mode the shudders are very very evident after the 5th gear when it shifts to 6th and above that each shift gives the bad shudder. Also when I’m on the 10th gear if I give a good push on the accelerator pedal to pick up some speed it shudders a lot for like 2-3 seconds and then it picks up.. it’s really scary and frustrating but I found no solution yet. I take it to a garage where they service atleast 5 mustangs from the s550 gen daily and they are very shocked to hear about my experience.

One thing is when the transmission is well heated up, the shudders are very less. That’s what happens when I make any mechanic drive my car to show him the problem! They say it is normal! When it’s cold it’s very scary and unfortunately I’m not able to show it to anyone!

What I read online and what I could understand is that the shudder is due to bad tuning of the 10R80 transmission by Ford. Because when I use the sports + driving mode, it is much better and I’m always using this mode now. If it was a mechanical issue, it would feel the same in all modes yeah? I’m not saying sports + completely solves the problem, but surely around 60% smoother shifts compared to normal mode and better throttle response.

I also read that adding Ford friction modifier with the transmission fluid helped some people (not for the same cars, for f150 n other fords also). I also read somewhere that the Camaro uses the same 10R80 tranny and nobody has ever reported such issues or any jerks or tranny related issues coz Chevy did a good job tuning it!

My mechanic says not to change the gear oil now as it may start other problems (I really don’t know what he means?!), he’s not so confident with replacing oil maybe they are not very experienced at it. And I’m not sure at what kms it is best recommended to change it?!

Also just a week ago, my car broke down at a petrol bunk coz the battery died. It was not the original recommended battery on it (I’m not the first owner so I’m not sure when it was replaced last). Luckily the petrol bunk had a garage right behind it and I had no option than to purchase a battery that’s available there and matching what was there in ‘my car already (62AH of AC Delco brand). I got an Energizer max 62AH battery and the shudder experiences are still the same. I wish I had an option to get the OEM recommended battery to confirm if that solves my problem. Maybe next time. Hope this helps.
Do you reset the battery management system (BMS)?
You need to do a reset, because your car don‘t know that he had a new battery.

And after the battery reset, i would reset the PCM from your 10R80.

I also need to do this in the next few days. I hope this problem would be sold.

It is not a shudder, i have the problem that my transmission make vibrations in normal-mode wenn i accelarate. I feel the vibration when it shifts from gear 6>7, 7>8, 7>4, 7>5 between 2200-2800rpm.

When i ask chatGPT what that it is and why is the vibration not felt on every ride, he say that is maybe a problem with the battery or the alternator, because jo need a high voltage for shift from gear 5-10.
 

eksu

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hi, did you ever find the reason for the shudder/vibration? Having similar issues.
 

Snakebyte

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As @Joe Gonsalves stated, I cleared my tables...and I turned off learning as well.

The benefit of turning off learning is that I have different driving environments encounter from time to time. A learned table for one environment (level terrain where I live) may work well for that environment, but when I take trips up to the Smokies, that learned table doesn't work too well, and a lot of shuddering goes on.
Since clearing the tables and disabling learning, I've had no more issues in either environment.
 

eksu

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As @Joe Gonsalves stated, I cleared my tables...and I turned off learning as well.

The benefit of turning off learning is that I have different driving environments encounter from time to time. A learned table for one environment (level terrain where I live) may work well for that environment, but when I take trips up to the Smokies, that learned table doesn't work too well, and a lot of shuddering goes on.
Since clearing the tables and disabling learning, I've had no more issues in either environment.
Hi,

thanks for the quick reply. I'll be sure to check that too.

Do you get the feeling and sound at the rear of the car (if your ass can feel it) or directly from the gearbox?
 

Snakebyte

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My shudder was the transmission searching for which gear it really wanted to go into. It was confused with the flat-Florida learning table, when I tried navigating Tennessee 20+percent grades at lower speeds.

Edit: Also, I short shift frequently, and in doing so, it somewhat scrambles the learning table development process.
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