10r80 FBO E85, Second trip to the track: 11.26 at 126.25

[deanm11]

I ran at Island dragway on Friday night. It was about 55-60 degrees out and humid. I ran 11.47 at 125.94 in the spring. A bit of improved tuning since then and on Hoosier DR2 radials this time. And pulled passenger and rear set.

Updated run-down:

Car is a no-option GT other than the trans. Came with a 3.15, put in a junkyard Ecoboost 3.55
My fuel tested about E71 and is tuned as such.

Power mods:
Kooks 1 7/8 Longtubes with cats
Magnaflow muffler/resonator 12469
Borla S-type
Ported intake and throttle body
Steeda closed box air intake
Velossa air snorkel
Tuned with hptuners

275-40-17 Hoosier DOT DR2 Drag radials
18" 255mm street wheels/tires in front
QA1 Carbon Fiber driveshaft
LH only DSS 800hp axle
Handling oriented suspension - Steeda ~1" lowering springs, pro-action adjustable shocks
This time did disconnect the front sway bar links
Race weight ~ 3460, 3630 w/ driver

I think I only was power-braking the car to around 1500rpm and yielding 1.83 60s. DA about 700ft. I think if I had enough runs to explore high rpm launch, I think I'd have run about 11.15. I did think I'd be more in the 127 trap range with more weight out and bit better tune.

There was a guy with similar build but ~100lb heavier car and Cobrajet intake setup running. He ran an 11.08 best but with: CircleD torque converter, ET Street Rs and front skinnies. Bottom line - everything needs to be just right to get these cars this close to 10s. That said, with good tires, it's pretty to close to point and shoot down the track with 10spd.

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[Coyote Chase]

I ran at Island dragway on Friday night. It was about 55-60 degrees out and humid. I ran 11.47 at 125.94 in the spring. A bit of improved tuning since then and on Hoosier DR2 radials this time. And pulled passenger and rear set.

Updated run-down:

Car is a no-option GT other than the trans. Came with a 3.15, put in a junkyard Ecoboost 3.55
My fuel tested about E71 and is tuned as such.

Power mods:
Kooks 1 7/8 Longtubes with cats
Magnaflow muffler/resonator 12469
Borla S-type
Ported intake and throttle body
Steeda closed box air intake
Velossa air snorkel
Tuned with hptuners

275-40-17 Hoosier DOT DR2 Drag radials
18" 255mm street wheels/tires in front
QA1 Carbon Fiber driveshaft
LH only DSS 800hp axle
Handling oriented suspension - Steeda ~1" lowering springs, pro-action adjustable shocks
This time did disconnect the front sway bar links
Race weight ~ 3460, 3630 w/ driver

I think I only was power-braking the car to around 1500rpm and yielding 1.83 60s. DA about 700ft. I think if I had enough runs to explore high rpm launch, I think I'd have run about 11.15. I did think I'd be more in the 127 trap range with more weight out and bit better tune.

There was a guy with similar build but ~100lb heavier car and Cobrajet intake setup running. He ran an 11.08 best but with: CircleD torque converter, ET Street Rs and front skinnies. Bottom line - everything needs to be just right to get these cars this close to 10s. That said, with good tires, it's pretty to close to point and shoot down the track with 10spd.

Sounds like a fun day at the track!!

PS: I'm also planning to change out my 3.15 gears for 3.55 gears... What is a fair price, when dealing with a salvage yard??
Thanks

 

[deanm11]

Sounds like a fun day at the track!!

PS: I'm also planning to change out my 3.15 gears for 3.55 gears... What is a fair price, when dealing with a salvage yard??
Thanks

I paid I think $325 for an about 15-20k mile unit.

 

[mtr5.0]

Cars hauling …How’s the install on swapping out the rear diff.? Havnt seen many write ups on a diff swap.

 

[deanm11]

Just lots of stuff to disconnect. The only thing that can be slightly tricky, to me at least, is safely getting the axles disconnected and reconnected to the center section.

 

[deanm11]

My easiest path to the 10s... tune in that factory transbrake.

I'd love to see reports of A-B on tuning that in...

 

[mtr5.0]

Just lots of stuff to disconnect. The only thing that can be slightly tricky, to me at least, is safely getting the axles disconnected and reconnected to the center section

Do you happen to have any how to installs on the diff. ?
im assuming the rear cradle had to me dropped also

 

[deanm11]

A I recall I benefited most from the half shaft/axle install video from Modern Muscle. If I recall correctly, you'll have to loosen the cradle and droop the front side in order to get all the diff bolts out.

 

[Coyote Chase]

Do you happen to have any how to installs on the diff. ?
im assuming the rear cradle had to me dropped also

When I changed my rear springs (one at a time), everything un-bolted easy. I think dropping the complete IRS may be the way to go!??

 

[Coyote Chase]

his time did disconnect the front sway bar links
Race weight ~ 3460, 3630 w/ drive

You have some nice mods on your car, and have done a good job on weight reduction.
Any pros or cons on disconnecting the front sway bar links?

 

[deanm11]

I changed tires and also disconnected links at the same time.. so can't say how much it helped. Also haven't done a ton of street driving disconnected to say how it feels pushing it in a corner.

My plan for Spring: - Drag springs in back. This will put a bit of rake into the car. - Touch up the alignment - Tune in the transbrake

 

[NGOT8R]

Dropping the entire cradle is the way to go for any differential work. I did it when I installed my Steeda differential bushing kit (with through bolt kit), subframe alignment kit, bushing support kit and differential bracket kit. This will give you the much needed room to work when uninstalling/installing a differential. Here is how I did it.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...rough-bolts-and-bushings.147580/#post-3017858

 

[Coyote Chase]

I changed tires and also disconnected links at the same time.. so can't say how much it helped. Also haven't done a ton of street driving disconnected to say how it feels pushing it in a corner.

My plan for Spring: - Drag springs in back. This will put a bit of rake into the car. - Touch up the alignment - Tune in the transbrake

I may go ahead and disconnect mine (I trailer my car).
I ran last season with front drag springs only, just added matching rear springs (haven't done any testing).
FYI: Jessie Ringling of EMS (engineering motorsports solutions) sells a custom torque converter for the 10R80 transmission (for $500) and he also works with a local shop that does modifications on the 10R80.

 

[mtr5.0]

Dropping the entire cradle is the way to go for any differential work. I did it when I installed my Steeda differential bushing kit (with through bolt kit), subframe alignment kit, bushing support kit and differential bracket kit. This will give you the much needed room to work when uninstalling/installing a differential. Here is how I did it.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...rough-bolts-and-bushings.147580/#post-3017858

Thanks man , that’s a great write -up
You did. Looks like a good winter project for me.

 

[NGOT8R]

Thanks man , that’s a great write -up
You did. Looks like a good winter project for me.

NP. That’ll certainly eat up a little bit of time during the winter. It’s also a good time to look everything over and address any potential issues that may be present.

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