1000WHP shortblock

[Jay159866]

I'm building an TT engine with a friend with 1000WHP as the goal. Do you think a 15 stock block with upgraded rods/Pistons will do the job? He has MPR on hold for a longblock at $16K but I feel we could save money with the new coyote engine.

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[FATHERFORD]

Really pushing it...

need to look into sleeving.

 

[Jay159866]

Really pushing it...

need to look into sleeving.

Yeah, that's what I was wondering. The MPR option is a 1500HP engine. Budget of $30K is really close with the TT kit.

 

[JimIII@JDM]

My company JDM Engineering can offer a custom built shortblock (11:1, 10:1, or 9:1) for 900 HP using a factory block for $5295. Also a similar version with the Coyote R block which we rate for 1100 HP. That is more expensive due to cost in the block and goes for $6795. Then we have the option for a sleeved R block which is what we run in our Cobra Jet Race cars. These are the strongest, good for up to 1500+HP, and with the additional cost coming from sleeves, custom pistons, and heavy duty I beam Rods it goes for $9995.

 

[Joe 5.0]

My company JDM Engineering can offer a custom built shortblock (11:1, 10:1, or 9:1) for 900 HP using a factory block for $5295. Also a similar version with the Coyote R block which we rate for 1100 HP. That is more expensive due to cost in the block and goes for $6795. Then we have the option for a sleeved R block which is what we run in our Cobra Jet Race cars. These are the strongest, good for up to 1500+HP, and with the additional cost coming from sleeves, custom pistons, and heavy duty I beam Rods it goes for $9995.

10K for their strongest block? This seems like the way to go! :cheers:

 

[Jay159866]

My company JDM Engineering can offer a custom built shortblock (11:1, 10:1, or 9:1) for 900 HP using a factory block for $5295. Also a similar version with the Coyote R block which we rate for 1100 HP. That is more expensive due to cost in the block and goes for $6795. Then we have the option for a sleeved R block which is what we run in our Cobra Jet Race cars. These are the strongest, good for up to 1500+HP, and with the additional cost coming from sleeves, custom pistons, and heavy duty I beam Rods it goes for $9995.

Could you email me the build sheet on the R block? ARP hardware?

 

[JimIII@JDM]

Could you email me the build sheet on the R block? ARP hardware?

ARP Rod bolts and we use the FRPP block hardware kit during assembly.

JDM Coyote 5.0L Built Shortblock 304 Cu in.

• NEW FRPP Block de-burred and honed +.010" to ensure perfectly true bores
• NEW FRPP Boss Crank
• Manley R series H beam rods w/ ARP 2000 bolts
• Mahle forged alloy pistons +.010" (11:1, 10:1, and 9:1 compression ratios available)
• Total Seal custom ring pack
• Clevite main and rod bearings
• FRPP 5.0L Block hardware kit
• New Coyote Oil Pump w/ TSS billet gears installed
• Fully balanced and assembled
• Rated 1100 HP 1 year no detonation warranty

 

[Jay159866]

ARP Rod bolts and we use the FRPP block hardware kit during assembly.

JDM Coyote 5.0L Built Shortblock 304 Cu in.

• NEW FRPP Block de-burred and honed +.010" to ensure perfectly true bores
• NEW FRPP Boss Crank
• Manley R series H beam rods w/ ARP 2000 bolts
• Mahle forged alloy pistons +.010" (11:1, 10:1, and 9:1 compression ratios available)
• Total Seal custom ring pack
• Clevite main and rod bearings
• FRPP 5.0L Block hardware kit
• New Coyote Oil Pump w/ TSS billet gears installed
• Fully balanced and assembled
• Rated 1100 HP 1 year no detonation warranty

I'll have him call for more details and upgrades. Should he ask for you?

 

[JimIII@JDM]

I'll have him call for more details and upgrades. Should he ask for you?

Sure that's fine!:cheers:

 

[Burnin4]

I have a 1000whp+ twin turbo setup, I'd go with MPR if you want a sure thing. For a darton sleeved setup you need about 12k plus a set of stock heads/cams. That 12k include a new block and crank, diamond pistons, mahle rods, king/clevite bearings, arp errythang. That price includes everything down to shipping/crate, gaskets, break-in oils, assembling the entire long block, full service on the heads (multi angle valve job, springs/valves, resurfacing. cleaning).

The budget route would be stock block/crank, upgraded pistons/rods/bearing for under 5k. That should hold 800whp with no problems. 800whp is a nice and comfortable place to be on the coyote engine, they really respond to that 14psi range, gotta add 50% more boost to break into the 1000+ (21-22psi). You aint gonna hook on the street on anything over 800 anyway, my car melts a new set of MT's past 100mph at anything above 8hundy. If you go this route I'd still recommend that you ship Tim/MPR your heads/cams and front half of your engine, so he can be responsible for the entire build. If you plan on making 800+ then you need to have your heads done for safety and to hold high boost (disassembled, sodablasted, valves, springs, resurfaced, reassembled).

 

[Jay159866]

I have a 1000whp+ twin turbo setup, I'd go with MPR if you want a sure thing. For a darton sleeved setup you need about 12k plus a set of stock heads/cams. That 12k include a new block and crank, diamond pistons, mahle rods, king/clevite bearings, arp errythang. That price includes everything down to shipping/crate, gaskets, break-in oils, assembling the entire long block, full service on the heads (multi angle valve job, springs/valves, resurfacing. cleaning).

The budget route would be stock block/crank, upgraded pistons/rods/bearing for under 5k. That should hold 800whp with no problems. 800whp is a nice and comfortable place to be on the coyote engine, they really respond to that 14psi range, gotta add 50% more boost to break into the 1000+ (21-22psi). You aint gonna hook on the street on anything over 800 anyway, my car melts a new set of MT's past 100mph at anything above 8hundy. If you go this route I'd still recommend that you ship Tim/MPR your heads/cams and front half of your engine, so he can be responsible for the entire build. If you plan on making 800+ then you need to have your heads done for safety and to hold high boost (disassembled, sodablasted, valves, springs, resurfaced, reassembled).

My friend is set on buying the Hellion TT kit (13 GT). He's having porting solutions deal with the heads and figuring out the shortblock situation. I think he's leaning towards MPR since its a 1500HP setup, and he won't have to worry if he wants to push more than 20PSI. I've tried to tell him that 800whp is more than enough for the street but it's his money. He's dealing with Tim @ MPR.

Thanks for the advice guys.

 

[mustang_guy]

I have a 1000whp+ twin turbo setup, I'd go with MPR if you want a sure thing. For a darton sleeved setup you need about 12k plus a set of stock heads/cams. That 12k include a new block and crank, diamond pistons, mahle rods, king/clevite bearings, arp errythang. That price includes everything down to shipping/crate, gaskets, break-in oils, assembling the entire long block, full service on the heads (multi angle valve job, springs/valves, resurfacing. cleaning).

The budget route would be stock block/crank, upgraded pistons/rods/bearing for under 5k. That should hold 800whp with no problems. 800whp is a nice and comfortable place to be on the coyote engine, they really respond to that 14psi range, gotta add 50% more boost to break into the 1000+ (21-22psi). You aint gonna hook on the street on anything over 800 anyway, my car melts a new set of MT's past 100mph at anything above 8hundy. If you go this route I'd still recommend that you ship Tim/MPR your heads/cams and front half of your engine, so he can be responsible for the entire build. If you plan on making 800+ then you need to have your heads done for safety and to hold high boost (disassembled, sodablasted, valves, springs, resurfaced, reassembled).

Yeah, thats not true. Set your car up right and you can. Its all in the suspension and settings. I had a fox that would drag its bumper on the street. Ive seen s197s hook also. Im guessing youre not a no prep racer. Ive had 1300whp cars on the street and do just fine

 

[Burnin4]

Yeah, thats not true. Set your car up right and you can. Its all in the suspension and settings. I had a fox that would drag its bumper on the street. Ive seen s197s hook also. Im guessing youre not a no prep racer. Ive had 1300whp cars on the street and do just fine

Of course, forgive me my lord. I admit that I'm not running the most ideal setup with a 305/35-20 MT S/S on 18psi, but I'm sure I'd hook if I had a dedicated set of Welds with bias ply rears on 12psi. I'm new to the 1000whp+ club and just recently completed my first 2500 miles and 12 qtr mile passes, interesting learning curve/experience. With that having been said, knowing how viscous a 1000whp car is on the skreet I refuse to line up beside of another car making the same power, so since it ain't happening I'm ok with hooking on my drag radials all the way up,to 8hundy'ish :cheers:

 

[daltron]

Granted I am 74 RWHP shy of 800, but I can hook perfectly at 60 MPH with R888's. I'd have a hard time believing 800-900 would up that hooking amount by 40 MPH.

 

[Burnin4]

^what was the last sentence?

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